Water Pump

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by Jarvis, Sep 2, 2013.

  1. Always something right? Was changing plugs and wires today, saw something drip. Crawled under the car, coolant dripping from the bottom of the water pump. What all do i need to do to change it? Coolant drain?
  2. Coolant drain yes. That's a no brainer. But will need to undo the power steering bracket that is bolted to the water pump studs and possibly your ac condenser if you still have it. It is pretty straight forward. Now would be a good time to check your hoses and replace any that look cracked and worn as well.
  3. Sounds good, where is the drain? As for hoses, I'm getting a new rad and fan set up next month hopefully, so everything will be replaced then
  4. Also....Flush the system out real good and put new coolant in if you haven't done it recently.
  5. The drain is at the bottom of the radiator (petcock).
  6. Might as well change your Thermostat while you are doing it.
  7. definitely make sure it not coming from therm and running down looking like pump another point my car sometimes drops a couple drops on ground right after startup then stops been that way for a couple years now i have no problem living with it
  8. Right on top of the water pump correct? Recommend 160 or 180?

    It's covered up the bottom of a 7 quart drip pan in about 24 hours. When i was changing the wires it was several drips per minute.


    Thanks all for the help. It's much appreciated!
  9. Take a cardboard box, & turn it upside down. Count the number of bolts that hold the water pump on, don’t forget to count the 4 funny looking studs too. Poke a hole in the box for each bolt/stud. Arrange the holes in a circular formation, and mark the box at the 12:00 point. When you remove a water pump bolt, put it in one of the holes in the box according to where it came out of the water pump. When you are done, all bolts will be arranged it the exact same order and position that you removed them from the water pump. That makes re-installing them easy, no wondering where does this bolt go.

    A long shank tap should be used to chase the dirt & corrosion out of the original threads before you reassemble everything. Cleaning the threads will help prevent the bolts from seizing next time (yes, there will be a next time).

    A word about the links, if they don’t work, do a search on the part number (P/N). MSC updates their catalog regularly, and the pages may change, but the part numbers don’t.

    Long shank 5/16” taps

    http://www1.mscdirect.com 5/16” pulley tap, 6” shank P/N 04801189

    OR second choice, will not clean all the bottom threads unless you grind the end of the tap.

    http://www1.mscdirect.com extension tap, 6” reduced diameter shank P/N 04701181

    Use lots of antiseize on the bolts to protect them from corrosion and make them easier to remove next time.

    See http://totallystainless.net/totally.html for replacement stainless steel bolts. Last time I checked, they didn't have the studs. Nice folks, very into cars of all types. They have all kinds of stainless fasteners for almost every car. The prices are very reasonable, less the $10 for the water pump kit without the studs.

    The studs are a Motormite item available at your local Advance Discount auto Parts store.

    Motormite Water Pump Stud Kits for Ford, Lincoln and Mercury cars and trucks w/3.8L, 4.6L, 5.0L, 5.8L.


    Part Number: 23744

    Copied from Noobz347

    Water pump bolt sizes
    *All bolts are 5/16"-18

    Water pump:
    4 bolts - 3 1/4"
    2 bolts - 4 1/4"
    2 bolts - 1 1/4"
    1 bolt - 2 1/4"

    Additional timing cover bolts:
    2 bolts - 2 1/4"
    2 bolts - 2 1/2"

    These are measured from underneath the head to the end of the bolt and NOT from the top of the head. Just the shank.
  10. I use a 180 Stat in my car, but the factory 192 is fine also, I would avoid using a 160.
  11. It bears worth repeating over and over pertaining to water pump bolts- use a judicious amount of PB Blaster on the bolts before you try and remove them, and anti seize on the threads when you reinstall the bolts. I would also chase down the bolt hole threads.

    I think everyone has snapped a water pump bolt at least once in their lifetime so be prepared.

    Finally, I would recommend SS bolts- although pricey- they will greatly diminish the chances of freezing up in the bolt holes when you replace the water pump the next time. (trust me on this there will be)
  12. Thanks all! Kinda nerve racking doing this for the first time on my baby. I know it's not particularly hard but still.

    Very helpful as always my friend!!
    What do you mean by antiseize?

    I sure hope they don't break. I hate her being down for the count like this, it's worse that a don't have a garage and the people in my leasing office get pissed when i work on it in the parking lot. lol
  13. Go to the part store and ask for Anti Seize Compound, it will help prevent future problems.
  14. See NAPA parts for this...


    Part Number: BK 7651151 Not cheap, but well worth the price

    Product Line: Balkamp

    Chemical Container Type : Brush Top Bottle

    Chemical Manufacturer : Permatex

    Chemical Primary Application : Prevents Galling, Corrosion, Seizing & Cold Welding

    Chemical Working Temperatures : -60 To 1,600 Deg F

    Container Size : 16 oz
    part # BK 7651151
  15. Thee drain is a cheap piece of plastic on the radiator so be gentle.
  16. Reviving the dead thread sorry, I finally got to the water pump swap. I ran in to a few problems/ questions.

    1. I think i may have broken a stud which was expected. If i did break it was at the very end. Threading is there, but it looks broken on the end.
    2. I believe I found the source of my leak. Right at the bottom is a little chip, looks like someone in the past got carried away when removing a gasket. Am I correct in thinking that? If so I'm assuming a replacement is my only option? Tips for that?

    3. Tips on removing old gasket? Got most of it off of the timing cover and thermostat housing but i little left I can't get.
    4. Assuming by flush the system you mean pour water into it?
  17. Thats not where it was leaking from. That notch is there from the factory.
  18. 1. Post a pic of what you think is the broken stud. worst case is you remove the timing cover. Most likely you can get away with using an easy out.
    2. That is not whre the leak is from
    3. Use brake clean and sharp razors

    When you reassemble make sure everything is squeaky clean and dry.
  19. We just had this on another thread where someone broke a stud off. It has tons of what not to do it that made it more difficult to fix, cannot find it, ....anyone???