water temp gauge wiring help pleaseeee

ryan218

In just 10 years, I'll be old enough to drive!!!!
Dec 28, 2005
0
1
38
columbus ohio
ive only had this for 5ish months now and never hooked it uo. wired it in last night and it don't work :scratch: its a ultra lite series. ( elec ) the power for the back light was hooked up. then there was a blue wire. and a black wire left. took the blue to the sending unit ( autometer unit ) and black to a separate ground. is this right or did i mess up a simple wiring job lol
 
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Its only three wires?
You shoud have a positive with ignition (red wire, could be yellow)
a ground (black)
and a signal (blue)
 
Its only three wires?
You shoud have a positive with ignition (red wire, could be yellow)
a ground (black)
and a signal (blue)

sorry. red and a ground for the back light to it. i have it wired to where when the ignition is turend on the back light comes on. then a blue and a black wire left. i put the blue to the sending unit and black to the dash frame as a ground. it dont work lol.

:scratch:
 
You should have five wires right? Two wires for the light and three for the gauge. Wire the backlight up to something like the AOD shifter light or IP lights.

Then on the gauge part; ground goes to the block-- wire the one that goes to the sending unit-- and find an ignition source for the ignition wire.
 
try an new housing and get a 180 thermostat in there. 210 is on the hot side, what happens when you get stuck in traffic?

i sat in traffic for an hour and a half. it never rose above the 210 mark. but yes i agree. i have a explorer thermostat housing i got from a buddy im going to clean up and try again with it. i broke the old housing tightening it down since the ****ty thermostat didnt sit right.
 
Might also try the Super Glue trick when putting in the T-stat.

Clean the housing up real nice and make sure it's all dry, then put a dot of Super Glue on either side where the thermostat sits in it (make sure the bleeder valve on the t-stat is toward the top) and let it sit for a minute. This will keep the thermostat from dropping down and getting the edge pinched between the housing and the intake mounting surface. Then slime on some RTV silicone and carefully push your gasket onto the housing, and then let that set up for a little while - this will help the gasket stay in place and not shift around a bunch when you go to stick the housing onto the intake. Then apply your final bead on the other side of the gasket, stick 'er on there, thread in your bolts, cinch it down, fill 'er up, and go watch TV or browse Stangnet for awhile until it all sets up before you go starting it up and driving around. :nice:
 
Might also try the Super Glue trick when putting in the T-stat.

Clean the housing up real nice and make sure it's all dry, then put a dot of Super Glue on either side where the thermostat sits in it (make sure the bleeder valve on the t-stat is toward the top) and let it sit for a minute. This will keep the thermostat from dropping down and getting the edge pinched between the housing and the intake mounting surface. Then slime on some RTV silicone and carefully push your gasket onto the housing, and then let that set up for a little while - this will help the gasket stay in place and not shift around a bunch when you go to stick the housing onto the intake. Then apply your final bead on the other side of the gasket, stick 'er on there, thread in your bolts, cinch it down, fill 'er up, and go watch TV or browse Stangnet for awhile until it all sets up before you go starting it up and driving around. :nice:


thats how i do it. minus the superglue. its the 180* i got are too big for the after market thermostat housing.
 
Might also try the Super Glue trick when putting in the T-stat.

Clean the housing up real nice and make sure it's all dry, then put a dot of Super Glue on either side where the thermostat sits in it (make sure the bleeder valve on the t-stat is toward the top) and let it sit for a minute. This will keep the thermostat from dropping down and getting the edge pinched between the housing and the intake mounting surface. Then slime on some RTV silicone and carefully push your gasket onto the housing, and then let that set up for a little while - this will help the gasket stay in place and not shift around a bunch when you go to stick the housing onto the intake. Then apply your final bead on the other side of the gasket, stick 'er on there, thread in your bolts, cinch it down, fill 'er up, and go watch TV or browse Stangnet for awhile until it all sets up before you go starting it up and driving around. :nice:

Why do you need the bleeder valve towards the top? What happens if it's not? I'v never heard of this before. peace




john:p
 
thats how i do it. minus the superglue. its the 180* i got are too big for the after market thermostat housing.

I used a motorcraft 180 t-stat with a housing from advance and it fit fine. mine also heats up to just under 210, im going to flush the system this week and see if it changes any thing.