Water Wetter Work?? ...trial W/ Gauge Pics

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by Grabbin' Asphalt, Apr 12, 2014.

  1. So I'm reading reviews about this product and I feel enough people on forums have claimed good results v.s. the no results to try it, ...and Soooooooo the experiment begins, ....Muahhahahaha!!! I'm always trying new things to see if they actually work anyways and it's time for the coolant flush, so what the hey, let's document it with pics of the gauges. I'm also needing a little love with the upgraded 3 row radiator with 1 electric fan i already had. Should have stayed 2 row with 1 fan but it's cool, I'm in deal with it city and I've had good success with the Bars Stop leak_silver aluminum with the old radiator and heater core. So it's time for more snake oil :D
    So to really slap the teeth outta this [email protected] I'm not using one bottle but 2 Bottles :nice: Also gonna use stock gauges and the "normal factor" for my car. My car doesn't get middle on my NORMAL scale until a/c is being used. Never over heats normally and i have not had any puking in any situation in 1 1/2 years, I have a 190* t-stat in right now and a 60/40 water/coolant mix and today is "D" day ....Let's Do This o_O
    Pics before/after coming :nice:
    #1 Grabbin' Asphalt, Apr 12, 2014
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2014
  2. Dropped my temps 10 degrees on a hot day. Would get to 205 now sticks around 195. 75-80 degrees and cooler out its 180.
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  3. That is what we used in ALL of our cars we built on the NASCAR team I worked for. Good stuff.
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  4. So AFTER getting the engine nice and hot, ran both pics at 25min at idle, the simulation of Dead Stop Traffic after the engine was hot and driven. So again, engine nice and hot, then let them sit for 25min at idle, then took the pic. First one is no a/c and the 2nd pic is with a/c. Turned it half and half with level 2 and full blast a/c max to really get it going. Outside temp 70*
    When I've done the flush and burped the system and added the water wetter and feel the system is right I will replay the scenario at 70* again, trying to do it exactly the same, report back later.

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    #4 Grabbin' Asphalt, Apr 12, 2014
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2014
  5. Wow.My temp gauge never goes more than half way between the A and M even with the A/C on. You sure you got all the air out?

    Water wetter works with straight water. It's a waste of money with coolant. Call the company and they will tell you the same.
  6. Yes :nice: I'm absolutely sure i got all the air out from the original set up. I'm really good at burping my car and it's been awesome for a 1 1/2 years.

    So I'm almost done with the results, Pics COMING SOON!!!
  7. Holy Crap it's Amazing :eek:

    So I actually skewed the results, I put the Watter Wetter's feet to the fire and upped the outside temp to 80* cause that's the temp when i finished, so hey why not, i was curious anyways.

    So here they are and I did it the same way in 80* weather, hot motor and then they idled for 25min with some revs to 3000ish rpms and I will post my formula after the pics but Holy Sh!t it worked better in 80* weather, couldn't have had better results ftom this experiment.
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    #7 Grabbin' Asphalt, Apr 12, 2014
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2014
  8. So some of you know I play minor league baseball and travel a lot so to have results like this is extremely AWESOME for me cause I'm on the road constantly and city driving this DD daily, even in the off-season with my side jobs etc, so the test is the real deal :flag:

    So here's my formula and what I did...

    1. Hooked up the hose to back flush my system with the prestone t-adapter etc, turned water on, cranked the car up and flushed it all out and it all came out of the radiator cap hole, (the exit funnel is in the kit to attatch to the open hole where the cap goes) and then shut off the car and then the hose. So the motor is now full of hose water along with the radiator. Also turned the heat on high during flush to completely back flush it right.

    2. Since adding the 3 core I estimated the system has 5 gallons or 20 quarts, may be wrong but that's what I came up with. But regardless at this point, if you are duplicating this formula your entire system has water in it :nice: even if you have a 2 row.

    3. Drained 3/4 of a gallon out of the radiator drain plug.

    4. Added 1 1/4 bottle of the juice :D then filled the rest with 50\50.
    At this point the overflow tank is COMPLETELY empty.

    5. Crank up the car and your temp WILL rise and you'll think it's messed up but it's not. If your system burps, having an empty overflow will let the air out and have some where to go :nice: after warming it up mine did not have any spew into the overflow.

    6. After it warms up, shut it off and let it cool and let the t-stat reset. When it's cool enough to open the radiator cap, open it notice the radiator is full. Start the car and then notice the coolant being sucked down and this is when you pour the rest of the 2nd bottle-(that's what I did) then fill the rest with water, squeeze the upper hose a few times to push any remaining air out.

    7. Put the cap back and pour more water into the overflow tank halfway between cool & hot.

    8. You're done and watch this sh!t work :eek:

    I may recheck burping it a little more cause my upper hose had a slight tad more pressure than before but the results are STUPID good so i kinda don't wanna' mess with it :shrug:
    Finally may have fixed
    my 3 row 1 electric fan(small shroud black magic 175)
    - 2800cfm set up, ...THANK GOD :SN:
    #8 Grabbin' Asphalt, Apr 12, 2014
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2014
  9. Also a couple of points i would like to add, seen online before i bought my 2 bottles, a few bottles that seemed pink in color. Mine were red from the zone store, just wasn't sure if it was another product or just the lighting online. Also the prestone t-adapter has been installed on my car since '97, never had one issue with that line or fitting. Even when I did have a rare puk happen long ago, it came outta' the radiator cap. Here's a couple pics of the product i used and the location of my t-adaptor in the coolant line. I'm pretty floored by today's results and if anyone wants to check it out in person in Atlanta, Ga just hit me up see this thing in action, best $20 I've spent in a LONG while. Hope this helps someone else with high a/c temps.

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    #9 Grabbin' Asphalt, Apr 12, 2014
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2014
  10. wont running that cool cause rich burning issues? not to dog you or anything but I wouldnt trust the stock gauge to tell me anything.
  11. I know the stock gauge is not the best way to determine the actual temp number so I'm just using it as a reference point of difference. I have no idea what it is right now but from the change of it's characteristics just tells me it works. Obviously I have no idea of actual temp but I'm gonna try and get a better gauge later. But I do know this, when I did have the 180* t-stat in a while back it's a tad higher now than when it was installed, and it was rich then thats why i took it out cause it was so rich. But it's higher now so i feel like it will be ok. So I need a temp measurement, can I use a thermo light gun on the t-stat housing to find a close temp??
    #11 Grabbin' Asphalt, Apr 13, 2014
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2014
  12. There is no way you have 5 gal. of coolant in the engine/radiator. I would bet it is a lot closer to 3 gal. or less. Most cars take right at 2 gal. of coolant (+ or - a quart) to completely fill a cooling system. Either way, I am a big believer in water wetter. I have seen positive results myself on several dozen vehicles from street to race over the years. It is certainly worth the money to add to a cooling system.
  13. 1989 Ford shop manual says 14 qts (3-1/2 gal) including the coolant reservoir filled to the cold fill line. I added a 3 row radiator from the stock 2 row one so it maybe more 4 1/2, i over guessed but it's ok, the whole system had water in it anyways.

    Yes these results are amazing, even if I don't know the true temp, I'm happy and it makes me feel better.
    #13 Grabbin' Asphalt, Apr 13, 2014
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2014
  14. Update:
    So this a/c pic is probably more accurate, had to travel 45min on the freeway then drove 10miles in red lights, traffic etc with the a/c kickin' all the way. Took this pic at the end of the 10 mile part. But still pretty happy :D
  15. I've always used the stuff but never truly knew if it was doing something. Seems like a good buy if you ask me!
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  16. Thanks for posting your findings. Whether we know the exact numbers or not - we can still see it works.
    On a side note, I used to live up north, so I understand the a/c on at 80*, but at the same time having lived in PHX AZ for the last 14years it does sound kinda funny.
    I need to get a proper gauge for mine too.
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  17. I've seen it but never used it. Being a noob I ask.."How does it effect the antifreeze situation in the winter?"
  18. Yeah I was wanting to see for myself and take pics that we can see the difference on a normal car gauge. Will look into getting a better gauge one day but I like the mostly stock look. I believe the difference in my set up is I used 2 bottles with 3/4 gallon of 50/50. The bottle says 1 bottle for 12-20 quarts, I thought the 12 was a possible low number for 5 gallons (20 quarts) so I wanted to offset it more and have SOME coolant in the system to help the tap water composition. Like @mikestang63 stated, bottle says best if used with no coolant, no way I'm running that mix in winter and certainly will need to add coolant in the winter time. I'm in the south so it won't be as harsh. But I believe doing a flush fill pre summer for $20 is really cheap, each bottle was $9.99. Then in the winter drain some and add coolant and repeat every spring. Seeing my results I will certainly have it in my bag of tricks. Don't believe I will need a pusher fan for my a/c condensor now too.
    #18 Grabbin' Asphalt, Apr 14, 2014
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2014
  19. Wait until you drive the car for 6 months and your fluid and radiator turn into brown sludge inside.
    I've used water wetter in the past with a mechanical gauge, i felt like over the first few weeks it did work, then slowly went back normal, then, just like i was told it would (advice i ignored), the coolant got brown. What a **** to undo that mess.
    IMO, it's just easier to run a bigger better radiator.

    If you do a search about "water wetter brown"you will find man people have issues with it. Too bad i used it when the internet was still small and dial up.

    This is just one of many posts about the topic.
    #19 2000xp8, Apr 15, 2014
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2014
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  20. I'm hoping the coolant I added helps the water mix. I've seen brown stuff from coolant water mixes before, so i wonder if it's just cleaning the rust deposits in the block and system??
    Since this ratio is not good for winter and adding coolant to the ratio will happen in November_ish, i will take pics of my coolant and document my experience. But I believe just from the color of the product being red, spread out in 90% water will turn it a light tint anyways, add a couple bad rust spots from your system and i think brown is easily there in a tan of some sort. I will take a pic if my coolant now so we can see the change from now til then.
    #20 Grabbin' Asphalt, Apr 15, 2014
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2014