Paint and Body WD 40 & a Scotch Brite pad

billison

I like tinted tail
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Feb 27, 2006
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#21
It’ll depend on the scratches. The Scotch bright will have a grit to it. 320 for red as example. If the scratches have any grit to it, they won’t polish well. But if it’s light you might be ok. It’ll polish quickly or it won’t.
 
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justin82

Active Member
Sep 14, 2017
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#23
so...this is what I just bought from orileys....what I need?
 

RaggedGT

GonnaBeASuperMod
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#25
When did you go from buffing/polishing the scratched paint to sanding/priming/painting the area?
As I’ve said before-I’m no @Davedacarpainter - but I’ll offer input (that he may later correct lol.)
I prefer 3M-many other good brands-and I like an electric buffer and micro fiber towels.Hand polishing/buffing isn’t to bad either.
I do use the multi step compounds and have always had good results (except that one time)
C687ACCE-99C1-4002-89DF-A57BD80497B3.jpeg
454E4732-AA93-46EF-8E96-445529975DC2.jpeg
 

justin82

Active Member
Sep 14, 2017
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#26
well....looks like I misread a post...I thought someone said to get wet sand paper, dangit
 

justin82

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#27
the clear coat has been rubbed off as well...I'm just doing what I thought I read and what some people I've talked to said....guess I better go back and reread!!..lol
 

Davedacarpainter

I think I've messed my pants
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Nov 28, 2015
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#28
the clear coat has been rubbed off as well...I'm just doing what I thought I read and what some people I've talked to said....guess I better go back and reread!!..lol
You cut through the clear coat with the scotchbrite?

All this talk of buffing the panel was based on the idea that you just scratched up the surface a bit with the scotchbrite. To include getting a fine grit wet/dry sandpaper like 1500-2000 grit.

If you've really cut through the clear coat, you'll end up with what I refer to as a buttthole there after buffing.

Do me a favor and post a picture of the area again except this time get it wet first, water would do fine. Try to get as good of a picture as you can. Try to have decent lighting when you take the picture.

PM me and I'll give you my phone number, it'll take five minutes to figure this out instead of several days of posting messages.
 
Jul 12, 2017
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#33
Try polishing it out with some the the rubbing compound posted above first. If some of the deep scratches are still there lightly wet sand them with 1200 grit sandpaper and the go over that with 2500 grit, the polish again. The clear coat on these cars is old and there isn’t a lot of it on the car so be careful. If you don’t fell comfortable doing it, run it by a reputable body shop and have them do it. And yeah, Why did you use a scotch brite pad and wd40 on it??
 
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NIKwoaC

中國製造
10 Year Member
Oct 31, 2006
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#34
I feel like there was a meme not too long ago, where a woman tried to wash her husband's car with kitchen cleaning supplies, including scotch-brite pads, and wrecked the paint like this, but all over the car.

For future reference... Don't ever use abrasives on car paint, unless you REALLY know what you're doing. Hopefully Dave can help you out.
 

billison

I like tinted tail
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#36
Put the rattle can stuff away.

This is what I would do. I’ll list it in a step by step so there is no confusion.

1. I would buy some kinda polisher. This will be a tool that can spin fast. Not the slow moving device you use to wax a car. Here is a cheap but good one from harbor freight. If you have a air powered die grinder, they sell buffing attachments.https://m.harborfreight.com/7-in-10-amp-variable-speed-polisher-62861.html

1.A get the pads for polishing and buffing.

2. I would get a polish and a buff, this is your choice,there are tons of options. 3m sells stuff, maguires 105-205, the parts store will sell stuff.

3. I would slowly polish the area, then buff the area.

4. Check to see if the problem is fixed. If it’s real real close , leave it be. If not, then move on to step 5.

5. Tape off about 1” around the area to protect the good paint. Using a sanding block and lots of water, slowly and carefully wet sand with 2000 grit until the area looks mostly dull. Be careful, if you start seeing color , your into the paint and now need to have a professional paint the fender.

6. Repeat steps 1-3.

At this point the area should be shinny and new looking. Add wax and be happy.

If you already own a buffer and polish what what bit, this will be a cheap and easy fix. If you don’t, you’ll speed around $100. OR For $100 you can have a body shop buff and polish the area. For $100 you can also have a mobile detail shop guy buff and detail the car . Call any car dealership and ask for the pre owned manager or reconditioning manager , tell them you need a good mobile detail guy and they will hook you up. The going rate for a detail is $100-150.

THE RATTLE CANS WILL MAKE IT WORSE!
 
Jul 12, 2017
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#38
Yeah, my boss would flip his lid if he found out there was wd40 in the shop. It’ll kill paint jobs for months.
 

RaggedGT

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#40
Did you know- using SOS soap pads to clean aluminum Mag wheels ,makes the wheels waaay less shiny-and kinda scratchy?
lol
 

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