weak e-break
- Thread starter sxystev0
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well you could always upgrade the rear to disc to get more grip, also you may need to adjust your ebrake. if you pull out the center section of your console and pull the ebrake up, you will see a threaded stud at the bottom of the ebrake with a threaded nut, tighten this nut down and it will tighten up your ebrake cable so that it will put more braking pressure to the rear brakes when you pull the lever up.
be sure not to tighten this down too much or it will cause your rear brakes to drag all the time.
be sure not to tighten this down too much or it will cause your rear brakes to drag all the time.
makarov
New Member
Also make sure that your rear brake shoes have enough meat on them to take the adjustment. If you have never adjusted the ebrake, the shoes may be worn thin. This will save you from eating up the drums with metal to metal contact.
bgjohnson
Founding Member
mines weak too, I used to be able to , then I put new brake pads on and has to replace a wheel cylinder and it just never felt the same after that, will high performance brake pads help grip better ?
yeah im only 16 and short for cash. 1990 all stock mustang GT convt. (auto) w/ 32,000 miles on it. Not much i can do, ill tighten it just a bit because sometime when i park on hills and leave it there for a while it has a hard time switching from park to drive and i think the weak e-brake might be a factor...
seijirou said:
Wrong wrong wrong!
There is no adjustment to the handles in the 87+ cars! Please look before posting! This is a 79-86 thing ONLY
The only way to tighten the Ebrake is to manually adjust up the shoes with a screw driver through the backing plate on the drums. If that does not help, then most likely your cables are stretched or there are problems in the rear brake system
89MustangGX
I have nothing productive to add!
bgjohnson
Founding Member
he meant a parking lot I'm sure, and you guys are aware that his year mustang has self adjusting brake pads right? and the way to automatically adjust them is back up and brake hard a couple times and it causes the little adjustment arm to push up the star adjustment wheel, the only reason there is a opening in the backing plate is for initial adjustment, if you do it wrong your car could pull to one side or you could mess up and heat crack your pads or drums
makarov
New Member
bg, they're shoes, not pads. If the car has had one brake job done in it's life, I can just about guarantee that the self adjuster isn't functioning properly. If you adjust the rear brakes properly, no pulling will occur. Fox body mustangs are notorious for bad brakes, the main reason being that the rears don't brake as well as the disc's on the front, which self adjust with wear, where as the rears, unless adjusted properly and often, just wear more slowly. Not everybody backs up and pumps the brake, as most are not familiar with this method of self adjustment. Don't take this as a flame, it's not. Get on a dirt road and accellerate to about 10-15mph and step on the brakes. The fronts will lock every time. I still believe he should check his rear brakes.
Hey im now 17 and own a 91 hatch GT 38000miles (manual) and sold the 90 convert 31000miles (auto) to my dad. ebrake is still weak and no i dont pull crazy stunts like drifting. I just want to make sure my ebrake works properly. so if i cant adjust any thing with a simple turn of a wrench i just wont mess with it till i get disc brakes in the rear.
fordman54935
Member
sxystev0 said:
Did the thought ever cross your mind that the emergency brake doesn't work because you pull it up to try drifting around corners?
You are lacking in either brains or maturity.
Sell your Mustang and get a Honda if you want to do that crap.
we should all stop ripping on adolesants. im 18 and i dont do stuff like that thats was only the winter when i was 16 and driving a 88 civic hatch cause the car was in need of a good beatin anyways. just get a new cable to put in there itll be worth it in the end cause its taut and you can pull that puppy tight and she wont budge. and if you wanna drift you dont need the ebrake for cars like ours just pop it in second doubleclutch and crank the wheel. if you gun it the ass end will slide right out at least mine does.
bgjohnson
Founding Member
damn this in an old thread, I'm now 18 also and a hell of a lot smarter than i was when I wrote those posts, I found out the reason my e-brake don't work too well is because I have a very slow leak with the axel seals and it drips just enough to effect it, I'm replacin the pads high perf. ones later this summer anyways and hopefully fixin the seals too. drums blow for performance!
88stangmangt
Active Member
bgjohnson
Founding Member
jeez what's with people drudging up old threads, and yes disc brakes suck for ebraking, that's why new cars have a mini drum brake in the back just for the ebrake.
Parking Brake during MA inspection
Ok, I failed my MA safety inspection yesterday because my E-brake cant hold the car at 1300 RPM when the inspector lets off the clutch. I did not go to my normal inpection place, because they are not open on Saturday's. The usual place I go, does not seem to check this to this extent, or checks it on the tread mill when doing emmisions.
I had the e-brake hold ok at 1000 RPM's, and it holds the weight of the car on the stepest hill. I tightned up my brakes today even more, with a brake spoon, at the rear drums, and the torque of the drive train over powers the ebrakes at 1300 rpm's.
The car rips like a bitch, here are my mods in the drive train area:
Mods are slight in the engine, a few addons and rollor rockers. Tremic transmision which lowers the stock gear ratio a bit along with 3:73's in the rear. I have not upgraded the crappy drums yet to disk but replaced the shoe's a few years ago. Suspension is all Koni adjustable including axel dampers.
Should i lessen the low end torque by putting the stock tranney in? or put the shorty headers back on instead of stock headers. I took the shorties out because the crome looked like crap after 5 years along with multiple broken studs from swapping the off road H pipe out for inspections the last few years.
Anyway, give me some info on what to do. I read online that the inspector suppose to test this by the computer and stop the vehicle within a certain amount of feet from 20MPH instead of using the torque of your motor to test this.
I can go for the retest, fail and apeal it but it bothers me that they fail due to the torque of the matter.
Ok, I failed my MA safety inspection yesterday because my E-brake cant hold the car at 1300 RPM when the inspector lets off the clutch. I did not go to my normal inpection place, because they are not open on Saturday's. The usual place I go, does not seem to check this to this extent, or checks it on the tread mill when doing emmisions.
I had the e-brake hold ok at 1000 RPM's, and it holds the weight of the car on the stepest hill. I tightned up my brakes today even more, with a brake spoon, at the rear drums, and the torque of the drive train over powers the ebrakes at 1300 rpm's.
The car rips like a bitch, here are my mods in the drive train area:
Mods are slight in the engine, a few addons and rollor rockers. Tremic transmision which lowers the stock gear ratio a bit along with 3:73's in the rear. I have not upgraded the crappy drums yet to disk but replaced the shoe's a few years ago. Suspension is all Koni adjustable including axel dampers.
Should i lessen the low end torque by putting the stock tranney in? or put the shorty headers back on instead of stock headers. I took the shorties out because the crome looked like crap after 5 years along with multiple broken studs from swapping the off road H pipe out for inspections the last few years.
Anyway, give me some info on what to do. I read online that the inspector suppose to test this by the computer and stop the vehicle within a certain amount of feet from 20MPH instead of using the torque of your motor to test this.
I can go for the retest, fail and apeal it but it bothers me that they fail due to the torque of the matter.
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