Well all I can say is Holy #$%#!

hotmustang331 said:
WOW, sounds like its a beats :D.

But please tell me something...tell me you didnt pully up 4PSI and didnt have it retuned????? :eek: Or even worse didnt even put it on a dyno to test it :jaw: :eek: .

I know that doing something like that wouldnt even cross my mind...so I doubt thats what you did. That would be a HUGE risk.

he has a forged 5.0 modular. he has more headroom for error when it comes to tuning than the stock 4.6 rotating assembly. he can run leaner than most of us cause his RA can handle it.

though i would still want a quick dyno to make sure i wasnt getting any knock or timing retard due to it. hell if its not knocking or the fuel curve is still within limits, more power to him.
 
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tomustang said:
octane booster only adds about 1/3 of 1 octane

agreed.

the NOS and other brands octane boosters are pure fools gold.

they "advertise"(we all know how advertising goes), a gain of 1 octane point. in reality, its more like .1 or a tenth of an actual octane rating point.

and even if it was 1 true point, if youre having issues at 91/93 octane, raising 1 point will not cure them, nor will 1 point make youre tune really that much safer.

you want a true octane booster, a can of Toulene from your local home depot will do the trick. gotta search for the right mixture per what you have in the tank.

i dont know about you guys, but in my city, 100octane is 5.10 a gallon, as compared to 91 octane at 3.40 a gallon. a can of octane booster is around 12 bucks.

say you use 12 gallons of 100octane.

12x5.10=61$

as compared to 12 gallons of 91 octane.

12x3.40=41$

a bottle of booster is 12$, so adding booster to a tank of 91 =

41$+12$=53$.

and you still would have only 92 octane, if that. so for 8$ more, you could have true 100 octane gasoline that will actually be more worth it than going from 91 to 92ish octane rating.

or you can mix and match. 6gallons of 91 and 6 gallons of 100 = 95ish octane. cheaper still than 100, and probably around the same price per tank as 91+booster.

thanks. come again.
 
thomas91169 said:
he has a forged 5.0 modular. he has more headroom for error when it comes to tuning than the stock 4.6 rotating assembly. he can run leaner than most of us cause his RA can handle it.

though i would still want a quick dyno to make sure i wasnt getting any knock or timing retard due to it. hell if its not knocking or the fuel curve is still within limits, more power to him.

Just to point this out...WE DONT HAVE KNOCK SENSORS. If we did like the DSMs, i wouldnt think anything about what he did...wouldnt be a problem. My friends talon was running 24PSI on pump gas in 100* weather and was safe racing me because the car was pulling a TON of timing for him.

Our IAT senses heat and adjusts timing and fuel accordingly. Thats all we have :nonono: . Darn ford could have gave us one like the 99-01 cobras and machs...jeeze. :mad:
 
man i can hear knock from a mile away.

i always thought the 4.6ers got knock sensors. oh well.

btw he shouldnt be letting the ecu pull timing, while its good that it can still pull timing to the point to keep knock at bay, he should still get that fixed. whats he using to tune?
 
Oh, he had to play with it all the time....that morning it was fine on 24PSI (cool) and got like no knock....but later that day it got HOT and he has (had) a manual boost controler and didnt turn it down. He didnt know we were going to race LOL.

But now he converted the car to a draw through MAF setup and that solved all of his driving problems with it randomly just dumping a TON of fuel in the motor depeding on the weather or whatever it wanted to do.

I believe his is running 18 PSI now and is running some race gas mix when he can. Last I heard, the car was running great. But yea he didnt let the car pull timing usually....he was always tuning it if he got any knock or whatever.