What All I Need To Bulletproof A '14gt

Discussion in '2005 - 2014 S-197 Mustang -General/Talk-' started by Fast_5.0, Sep 28, 2013.

  1. This is a daily driver. Well, depending on how obnoxious things become, I'll buy a beater. Until then, what do you heavy modders think? I'm looking to run 600-690hp all day...every day until I hear a knock from underneath

    • forged rods & piston kit
    • 302 heads & valve springs
    • engine oil cooler kit
    • 302 radiator
    • 1pc aluminum d/s
    • 302 manifold
    • 90mm tb
    • upgraded clutch, lines, flywheel
    • T-2 diff
    • new coil packs
    • new plugs
    car already has longtubes, no cats, o/r x pipe, and flowmaster outlaws; rather not make this car any louder, the drone is already redonkulous; no money for better wheels/tires; the ones that came with it are the ugliest SOBs I've every seen.
  2. Add a Tremec T56 Magnum and a forged crank to your list and I'd say you're good. The MT82 won't like you running that much power through it all the time like it sounds like you're going to do. I wouldn't worry about the coil packs and you should run 1 heat range colder on your plugs for supercharged applications.
  3. there is no mention of a boost anywhere in your original post. Was that left out by accident? What kind of budget do you have?
  4. Well I'll be doing a S/C kit, but for now, I'm trying to get input for building a reliable motor out of the coyote engine
  5. I may change my exhaust axle backs because my car is LOUD climbing through 2k rpm with flowmaster outlaws w/o a catted x pipe...almost embarrassing
  6. that's no surprise there!!

    What about the glass getrag?
  7. The MT82 won't handle that kind of power. Its about maxed out in stock form.

    Are you just looking for power, or do you have a reason to specifically want to do this with the Coyote? With what you'll end up spending to get 600+hp on a GT reliably, you could probably get a GT500, and have a warranty and a little cash left over.
  8. I dunno about that man...the difference is about $25k between a GT (non premium, which who needs that crap anyway) and a base Shelby with no options.
  9. not to mention higher insurance premiums for the GT500
  10. The reason I want to do this to the Coyote is because I don't want to destroy the motor with upgrades it can't handle and I want more power to go faster. Ford Racing says to stay around 500-590hp reliably on their conservative tune. The cost of a same-year GT500 is over $30,000 more than what I paid for my '14 GT 5.0. You can also obtain a warranty with mods going through either Ford Racing or Roush. However, 3/36k means nothing because it's a brand new car. A 5/100k is a different story. Had I ordered a GT500, like the one I was offered for $63k 2014, I would have an absurd payment on 48 months, and the insurance premium would jump from my current 560/six months to well over a 1000/six month. Additionally, if I were going to swallow that kind of price point, I would buy a '14 Roush Phase 3 instead.

    To date, I've only spent 3k to include labor for my parts. The list I provided above hasn't been purchased yet. Each day, it gets smaller and smaller as I distinguish between the "wants" and the "needs."
  11. Pre-Ordered the adjustable BBK varitune axleback to replace my outlaws. I'm hoping the chambered mufflers will help tone down the headers and x pipe.
  12. Fair enough. I'm sure it can be done, but not on the cheap. I just don't think you'll make it to GT500 or Roush 3 territory on a Coyote, and maintain durability at the same time without going into the engine (and transmission) and doing some serious internal upgrades, after which, you'll have paid GT500 or Roush 3 money when all is said and done anyway. You can get a GT500 for around $55k. $63k is too high, unless you are looking at a lot of options. I'm not sure what a Roush is going for these days.

    I'm also curious about the Roush or Ford Racing warranty you brought up. It's been a number of years since I read into anything like that. At the time, it seemed that you may be able to get a warranty on this stuff ( some 1/12, some 3/36, replacing the 5/60 factory powertrain warranty), but all of the parts and work had to be done by a Ford Racing certified dealer or Roush, with great markup and labor prices attached. Has this changed in recent years?
  13. I spoke with my dealer and roush about warranties for power adders. Ford will honor your warranty on the Roush Phase I packages that are either bought already installed on the car that you purchased or if you sent your car to Roush or to a Roush certified dealer to install (Roush will warranty the. If you wanted more power, say Phase 2 or Phase 3, Ford nor Roush will honor your factory warranty--even if you added the forged aluminator option for $8k that is designed for boost. Roush said they will warranty only their parts of the kit only for Phase 2 and 3 kits.

    If warranties are a priority, the best option would be to buy a Roush installed GT 5.0 or GT500 for around $60k. The GT500s may be stickered at $55k but getting one for that price is hard to do after you add the SVT and Track options (and nothing else). You can order a new Shelby without those two options, but once you get into sales tax, dealer fees, you're knocking on the door to $60k. You can find a used one for mid-50s with some miles. Roush and Boss 302s can be had used in the mid 40k range.

    Don't get me wrong, I considered just buying a used '13 Boss 302 and going from there, but I couldn't justify a mid-40k car. Also, if I had grabbed either a Boss or GT500, I would hesitate to modify it.

    Lingenfelter and Callaway are the same way when it comes to warranties (back when I was a corvette guy). In the end though, I get your point as far as costs. I may end up spending a total of $15k all said and done putting me at a total of $48k.
    #13 Fast_5.0, Oct 5, 2013
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2013
  14. bullet proof glass. steel panels. afterburners.
  15. For 700 reliable hp, I'd go with a forged shortblock, boost, and fuel.

    But this cannot be overstated:

    Tire & Suspension upgrades are critical. CRITICAL.
  16. Not to be a smart a$$, but one of the cheapest ways to "bulletproof" it is improve driving habits. I don't mean don't enjoy it, I just mean go easy on the shifts and rev limiter when you really don't need to beat on it. You can still shift quick and wind it up. Just don't MAX it. Besides... A nice little pause between shifts adds a retro sounding awesomeness to it:).

    That said, I still beef up parts as I go. I just find everything lasts longer than it did before I was that way.