what amount of clutch fork movement needed to engage clutch?

[wicked93gs]

just trying to find out...the tranny doesnt matter too much they all have fork lengths pretty close, so it will give me a ballpark idea...mine currently moves between 3/4" and 1" which I think should be enough, but the car doesnt run yet so I cant confirm

 

[2+2GT]

You should get 1/8" of movement of the lower pushrod before the release bearing contacts the pressure plate levers.

 

[wicked93gs]

I have read that new ford TOBs are designed to constantly ride the pressure plate(preload type) which is why the instructions for replacing a clutch cable in a late model say to pry the clutch fork slightly to be able to release the cable...but I'm still looking for movement for total engagement, not just contact

 

[D.Hearne]

The trouble with the older mechaincal linkage is wear in all the parts involved. This includes the pedal assembly wearing out the support bushing and into the steel support. This is a part often overlooked as it's up inside the dash, it has pot metal bushings that wear out over time. Make sure all the parts involved are fresh and tight.

 

[wicked93gs]

I'm sorry, i forgot to mention this is a T45 with cable clutch

 

[2+2GT]

The trouble with the older mechaincal linkage is wear in all the parts involved. This includes the pedal assembly wearing out the support bushing and into the steel support. This is a part often overlooked as it's up inside the dash, it has pot metal bushings that wear out over time. Make sure all the parts involved are fresh and tight.

You mean like this?

 

[2+2GT]

I'm sorry, i forgot to mention this is a T45 with cable clutch

I don't see where this would make a significant difference.

It seems strange that a release bearing would be intended to be constantly spinning. I would expect that to invite bearing failure.

 

[wicked93gs]

I don't see where this would make a significant difference.

It seems strange that a release bearing would be intended to be constantly spinning. I would expect that to invite bearing failure.

I would think so too...its just what i read though(although by the very definition bearings of other types constantly spin...though they re different types), I have also read free play of .050(not sure how I can measure that) I do have a small amount of free play after grinding down the pedal stop and more cable adjustment though...but I just cant tell with a non running car if the engagement is correct...I suppose I could always jump the starter with the car in gear and clutch depressed to see if it moves...but its a kinda dangerous way of testing clutch engagement

as for the pedal assembly...I will be upgrading to roller or ball bearing soon simly because I melted the nylon bushing thing in there when modifying the clutch pedal for the steeda quadrant

 

[D.Hearne]

You mean like this?

My first 67 I had back in the 80's was worse than that It was worn down at least an inch into the pedal support. on the clutch pedal side.

 

[D.Hearne]

I don't see where this would make a significant difference.

It seems strange that a release bearing would be intended to be constantly spinning. I would expect that to invite bearing failure.

Ditto. A little free play wouldn't hurt but help the bearing's life.

 

[2+2GT]

My first 67 I had back in the 80's was worse than that It was worn down at least an inch into the pedal support on the clutch pedal side.

The best way to prevent recurrence of this failure is installation of a roller bearing kit. You have to modify them, though, they don't fit unless you discard the wavy washers and grind down the thick reinforcing washers. The results are dramatic, though.

 

[10secgoal]

About one in is fine. The clutch itself probably only needs about .550-.700 movement. The arm where it pulls will be more though because of the extra leverage built in. A bit of preload is even OK. Bearings back in the day needed the free play so they didn't burn up.

 

[D.Hearne]

The best way to prevent recurrence of this failure is installation of a roller bearing kit. You have to modify them, though, they don't fit unless you discard the wavy washers and grind down the thick reinforcing washers. The results are dramatic, though.

There are or were vendors selling complete roller pedal supports. Don't recall where I saw them, but a search should turn one or more up. Wish that stuff had been around 20-30 years ago when I needed one.

 

[S-Car-Go]

Mustang Steve sells/installs the the roller bearings.

 

[69Rcode_Mach1]

I would think so too...its just what i read though(although by the very definition bearings of other types constantly spin...though they re different types), I have also read free play of .050(not sure how I can measure that) I do have a small amount of free play after grinding down the pedal stop and more cable adjustment though...but I just cant tell with a non running car if the engagement is correct...I suppose I could always jump the starter with the car in gear and clutch depressed to see if it moves...but its a kinda dangerous way of testing clutch engagement

as for the pedal assembly...I will be upgrading to roller or ball bearing soon simly because I melted the nylon bushing thing in there when modifying the clutch pedal for the steeda quadrant

I simply adjust the fork up until it is barely touching the fingers on the pressure plate and back off maybe a 1/4 turn on the adjusting nut. I don't like to preload the fingers, just a little bit of contact and the throw will do the rest.
Do not check engagement on the ground. Put the rear of the car on jackstands then check for movement when the pedal is depressed, give it a little rpms and observe.

 

[rebel65]

i can attest to the roller pedal assemblies, i have one now with my tko and the action is much better than other cars i have driven.

 

[dennis112]

Here is an article showing how to install the Mustang Steve pedal bearing kit:

Ball Bearing Clutch Pedal Support - FordMuscle.com Forums

 

[wicked93gs]

I simply adjust the fork up until it is barely touching the fingers on the pressure plate and back off maybe a 1/4 turn on the adjusting nut. I don't like to preload the fingers, just a little bit of contact and the throw will do the rest.
Do not check engagement on the ground. Put the rear of the car on jackstands then check for movement when the pedal is depressed, give it a little rpms and observe.

ah, but the car doesnt run....I would just wait till it runs, but I dont need to be re-doing my system if it doesnt work at the last minute....I can turn the driveshaft by hand in neutral(not hooked up to the rear end yet) but I cant with the clutch pedal depressed...am I to assume the clutch is not engaging? I may just end up having to go with a hydraulic system....though I dont really want to....I suppose I could just buy mustang steve's quadrant when I get ball bearing kit

 

[D.Hearne]

If the T45's clutch operates anything like the T-5 cable clutch, then it's got to move a lot to disengage the clutch. This is due to the clutch fork being pulled against the pressure plate, instead of the mech linkages rocker motion fork. (ala, Toploader bell housing) The pivot for the cltuch fork is in different locations in a T-5 bell vs a Toploader bell. The T-5 bell has the pivot on the passenger side of the transmission, the Toploader bell's on the drivers side.

 

[69Rcode_Mach1]

What D. Hearne pointed out is correct, my clutch is getting a little over an inch, around 1 1/4" of throw to disengage. I believe the T-45 is very similar, although I am not for sure on the location of the pivot on a T-45. If you can't turn the driveshaft with the pedal depressed then the clutch is not disengaging all the way. DO NOT go hydraulic unless you absolutely have to. I would have gone cable if there was a decent setup for a 69, hydraulics are great when they work, but I can't even begin to explain how much of my hair I ripped out getting it all setup properly so the air would rise to the top, and then the bleeding process to top it off took me hours. Maybe it's personal preference but I will take anything that is mechanical before electric or hydraulic because I can actually see what is going on and tweak it as needed. With a 66 the mustangsteve setup can't be beat. Take a look at it and make sure you won't have contact issues with your exhaust. If it will clear everything via straight routing, then get the car going and troubleshoot the clutch with the car running, you shouldn't have issues that would require you to rip out the system with a cable.