What CAI system to get

Miklowcic said:
Can the K+N Kit mess up my superchip tune? SHould you get the car back on the dyno after installing the K+N?
With you going from the stock airbox to an open element K&N, I'm betting it will lean out your A/F ever so slightly. You'll pick up a decent amount of HP too! I'd still throw your car on the dyno as soon as you can though just too make sure it didn't lean out too much.... better safe than sorry...
Miklowcic said:
If I change my plugs, can or will that mess up the superchip tune?
It won't mess up the tune, but a plug that's too cold or too hot can cause problems by itself. I had more trouble with the NGK TR-6's when I installed them. Come to find out they were too hot! I went back to the stock plugs and haven't had any problems since. I've read that the Denso's are causing problems on the SC'd high boost cars lately. Seems they've had a rash of Denso plugs where the insulator at the tip cracked and was consumed by the motor.
Miklowcic said:
Can plugs or the way they are gapped mess up the air fuel ratio?
No, but it sure can affect the way the car runs!
Miklowcic said:
Thanks for info....especially on the K+N......i am going to get one...damn ive spent alot of money on my car in the past few weeks....and i said i was going to pay it off before getting this crazy....oops :banana:

I'm really surprised a CAI wasn't one of your first mods! You are one of the only people I know with a 2.8 and still running a stock airbox! :eek:

U.M.
 
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Stock air box with a pully? You have at least 40 HP waiting to be gained from a K&N FIPK 2 system...

BullittStangV8 - if you are NA - a drop in K&N is all you need, you might only gain 2 hp with the full kit... now if you get blown... then you will need the FIPK2 from k&n...

I admit I would rather have a crome pipe than the stock one... but crome doesn't add hp so it isn't on my list :) I have outran many a pretty cars :cheers:
 
...

Cool

Thanks for the info/advice..

Yeah I was running high 11s with just the blue superchip, 2.80 pulley and drag radials...that was with the stock air box and drop in K+N. The car dynoed at 434hp 496tq that way...

STinks that my car is getting dynoed today and tomorrow with the new superchip tune..supposed to get30-40 more hp with their new tune according to the superchip site...so im guessing maybe 20 more?

but i wish I got the K+N on before spending all this money on a tune and dyno. I guess Ill hold off on the K+N until I go with the throttle body and air sensor mod, that my mech was recommending I do next....

As far as plugs. My mech said that he put in AUtolite PLatinum when I asked him to change the plugs and fuel filter. But he gapped them to .032. Most people seem to be running .038 with 14lbs boost.. Anyway the car is hesitating or missing especially noticable from 1000-1800 rpms.. Seems fine when im on it and the air fuel was fine.... IM hoping he gets its all figured out now either with the tune or plugs...

If its still not running right/to my liking after i get it back, i was going to go with the NGK TR6 Gapped at .038 like JDM recommends...but you had trouble with them...so i dont know...

SORRY FOR HIJACKING THE THREAD!

THANKS AGAIN!
 
Tat98Cobra said:
meat - is the K and N FIPK actually a cold air intake?

subscribing

peace

No, not in the true sense of the term. Only the DC, JLT, or UPR units are true CAI's because they place the filter in the fender and not under the hood. What many people don't realize is that once the car is moving it doesn't matter whether you have an open element filter under the hood, or a filter in the fender, the IAT2 temperatures are the same for both (Temperature of the air flowing over the intercooler). Those style CAI's make a difference when idling or sitting in traffic, but once you're driving down the road and air is flowing through the front of the engine bay, the air they provide is no cooler than an under hood unit.

U.M.
 
The Bullitt is N/A, my 2003 cobra obviously isnt! :) anyways, can someone please tell me where they got their K&N FIPK from, and how much it was? (its for the cobra, my bullitt has a full densecharger on it)
Mike
 
Uncle Meat said:
No, not in the true sense of the term. Only the DC, JLT, or UPR units are true CAI's because they place the filter in the fender and not under the hood. What many people don't realize is that once the car is moving it doesn't matter whether you have an open element filter under the hood, or a filter in the fender, the IAT2 temperatures are the same for both (Temperature of the air flowing over the intercooler). Those style CAI's make a difference when idling or sitting in traffic, but once you're driving down the road and air is flowing through the front of the engine bay, the air they provide is no cooler than an under hood unit.

U.M.

Thx for the info. Perhaps I'll look into the K and N then. Also, why would adding a CAI or open air filter change your A/F? The purpose of a MAF is to adjust fuel accordingly to how much air there is. ive done extensive maf work on my old car, and as long as my MAF was calibrated correctly, messing around with filters and powerpipes never changed my a/F

peace
 
Whatever you get, do NOT get one with the 90 degree bend between the filter and MAF.
Some of the issues can be tuned around, but it's NOT a good idea to get one of these.
I prefer my MAF to read correctly so I can tune correctly =o)
 
Tat98Cobra said:
Also, why would adding a CAI or open air filter change your A/F? The purpose of a MAF is to adjust fuel accordingly to how much air there is. ive done extensive maf work on my old car, and as long as my MAF was calibrated correctly, messing around with filters and powerpipes never changed my a/F

peace

It shouldn't change the A/F, but it does on many cars... Not a lot mind you... maybe a half point leaner or so. I can't explain why it does though....

U.M.
 
Uncle Meat said:
It shouldn't change the A/F, but it does on many cars... Not a lot mind you... maybe a half point leaner or so. I can't explain why it does though....

U.M.

I can.

Look at a scan tool and look at MAF voltage/counts.

It's all over the place, probably due to funky airflow around the 90 deg turn.

They don't all go lean, many go dead rich as the fluctuations in MAF readings often cause the car to read the failed maf table (at least, this is my theory), which causes the car to go PIG rich.
Like I said, you can tune around it, but I want my MAF reading accurately.
Why bother having a MAF if it's not reading correctly?

They make more power without the 90 degree bend and you are able to tune them correctly without the bend.

I've seen this myself and talked to other experienced tuners who have seen the same issues.....they agree that the 90's are simply no good on the 03/04 Cobra.
 
Uncle Meat said:
No, not in the true sense of the term. Only the DC, JLT, or UPR units are true CAI's because they place the filter in the fender and not under the hood. What many people don't realize is that once the car is moving it doesn't matter whether you have an open element filter under the hood, or a filter in the fender, the IAT2 temperatures are the same for both (Temperature of the air flowing over the intercooler). Those style CAI's make a difference when idling or sitting in traffic, but once you're driving down the road and air is flowing through the front of the engine bay, the air they provide is no cooler than an under hood unit.

U.M.

I took two indoor/outdoor thermometers and monitored the temperatures next to the filter in my K&N FIPK and inside the fender. When I am moving above 10 mph, the difference between the engine bay and the fender is only around 2-5 degrees F. When I'm sitting at a stop light or in the driveway, the engine bay temperature is 10-20 degrees F higher. If we assume the claim of 1 hp loss per 10 degrees temperature increase to be accurate, then I'm down 1-2 hp when I'm stopped. Whooopeee!

Filter in the fender doesn't really give you colder air to make a difference. Go with a kit that has a shorter more direct path.
 
propellerhead said:
I took two indoor/outdoor thermometers and monitored the temperatures next to the filter in my K&N FIPK and inside the fender. When I am moving above 10 mph, the difference between the engine bay and the fender is only around 2-5 degrees F. When I'm sitting at a stop light or in the driveway, the engine bay temperature is 10-20 degrees F higher. If we assume the claim of 1 hp loss per 10 degrees temperature increase to be accurate, then I'm down 1-2 hp when I'm stopped. Whooopeee!

Filter in the fender doesn't really give you colder air to make a difference. Go with a kit that has a shorter more direct path.


I couldn't agree more.

The cobras that tune easiest and make the most power have the long K&N cone that comes down and hits the headlight....but any straight cone will do.
 
just FYI guys I'm doing an unofficial dyno test tomorrow with the JLT True CAI on my 01 cobra. just 2 pulls, a before and after, so not really an official type test, but hopefully it'll give me an idea of the gains possible on the car.
 
Well you might find it a bit cheaper if you shop hard but I got mine from Proficient performance (Proficientperformance.com) for $169.00 shipped. I got it quickly and am very happy with how well it installed and fit. It added 12 HP at the wheels from my drop-in K&N filter on a dynojet. The supercharger sounds wayyyyy better too. I was running a very high octane fuel for the dyno pulls with the FIPK so that tended to bring my HP rating down a touch too.