What do I need for a 5.0 swap?

Discussion in '2.3L (N/A & Turbo) Tech' started by bhuff30, Jun 4, 2004.

  1. sorry to bring back a dead thread, but i've really gotten to thinking about this swap also, and was wondering what exactly makes a carb swap easier? do you just completely get rid of some wires this way?
  2. If you use a EFI on a 5.0L swap to a 2.3L car you will have a lot of wiring to do. I think you have to replace everything behind the dash as well as under the hood. If you use a carb you don't have all that to deal with because you just run a few wires for the distribitor. That is just my thoughts on it and my not be right.
  3. if you don't want a puny 170 HP motor go for anything from the '87 to '93 years of 5.0, in a Mustang. These years carried the 215 HP H.O. In addition, so did the '89 and later Mark Series Lincoln's. Don't even waste your time with an '86 H.O. or anything older.
  4. '87-'92 was factory rated at 225 hp, '93 was 215.

  5. Yes sir but the 87' uses the SD :puke: I would use 88-93' 5.0Ls :D

  6. The same exact stuff for a 351w swap :nice:
    Just something to think about.

  7. i was thinking about 351 also...i just don't get the wiring part (but that goes for 302 also). would i keep the computer in the car to control the electronics of the car but get rid of the engine harness? anyone know where a swap tutorial is that is fairly in-depth on the actual swap and not just what you need for it?

    (carbed swap, not efi)
  8. :scratch: I think I would rather go with a 5.0L swap than a 5.8L swap. I would stroke it out or something instead of droping in a stock 5.0L though ;)
  9. This is kind of off-topic, but soon I am starting a rebuild on a 351W and I think I am going to drop it into a early 70's Mustang. I found a 1971 Mach I that is just laying around in the bushes on some guys farm and he has it for sale. 351W coupe, expect some questions from me when I start this project, I am going to have a lot to learn.
  10. lol I hear that some one is making a kit to take a 302 all that way up to 355. :lol:
    Not quite as much as a .030 351W(357.2) and not nearly as durable.
    I guess if you spend a whole lot of money thats what counts. :nice:

    You could always buy a nice set of Forged 302 pistons, use stock 351w truck rods, and an aftermarket crank and you've got 393 cubes.
  11. Go for broke, 427 stroker. What would be a cooler answer to the question " What have you got in that thing?"
    "427" (or HEMI, just kidding)
    Nuff said.
    (emphasis on broke)
    Noone pounce me-just dreaming out loud.
  12. I'm not very good with older engines but.............
    The 427 was a ford engine and came in both pushrod and SOHC form.
    The 426 was the chrylser "hemi". :p

    A friend has a 427 windsor base, great track engine. Too top heavy to drive on the street I think.LOL he came across a deal like me. He found a guy going to jail and bought everything for $600 including the stand. :D This included the Motorsports 4 bolt main block.
  13. Well this one is the difference between the Men and the Boyz J/K

    Ok yes the 426 Cyl was a Hemi and Yes the Ford 427 was a Hemi also :D Try and follow along on this true hunt for bad A$$ power :nice: Ford made 3 types of 427s in which one of them had a set of Hemispherical heads (hemi) on it. These heads are probly more rare than a set of Chrylser Hemi heads I would guess.

    P.S. Don't forget Chevy made a 427 which didn't have Hemi heads if you're wondering :D
  14. Well I was referring to the Chrysler ad campaign with the "HEMI" remark. And yes I am aware of the Ford HEMI of old. Heres the scoop:

    429 BOSS
    "This is an all out competition design with aluminum heads and hemi combustion chambers(technically, they're "crescent-shaped"). The first few hundred in 1969 for NASCAR competition were called "S" engines; the later street version is a "T" engine."
    -Ford Motorsport Catalog 2001

    But, the 427 I was speaking of would be the 351W based 427 stroker, a step up from the 393, and I believe the max displacement for a stock 351W block. Much cheaper I'm sure than a "Side-oiler" or other vintage engine! :nice:

    Also: the Chevy 427 also came in an aluminum block version coded "L-88" and came in certain '69 'vettes and in some COPO(Central Office Production Order) Camaros(69 only if memory serves). These are what legends are made of with over 500HP rolling off the assembly line!
  15. Music to my eyes :D Nothing like old muscle talk to get your blood going :nice:

    I realizied you were talking about a stroker :D I just thought I would throw in a Ford hemi to mess around with people.

    The alum block 427 Chevys was usualy in the Yanko camaros only but may have been in a few Vettes for all I know. Ford no longer makes the 427 ( now I think they started again but not sure) but C. Shelby started making a all aluminum 427 for his cars. They are insane and usualy S/C :nice: to put out like 700hp. If you are like me 700hp is to low, well his Series 1 puts out like 1100hp. I just have been short on cash to buy one :( Now he does make a plan car with like 300hp by why would you want that :p

  16. 700 is to low, I have seen too many S/C FI big blocks making hp in the 1000 range on pump gas! Suffice it to say Hot Rod and Car Craft are not magazines for the average auto enthusiast, which is why I won't buy 'em anymore(I can put the $5 an issue[!] price towards my stang)

    And anyway what smells better than a vintage muscle car, that old vinyl/metal interior scent cannot be duplicated, replicated or copied, ah the memories... :rolleyes:
  17. I have a 2.3L and am considering a future swap for a 5.0...It is a lot of work..If you dont have a donor car you will be in real trouble..remember you also have to change the coil springs over to the 5.0 to support the extra weight(not fun..just changed springs on my 2.3L), you also have to change the exhaust system, wiring, instrument cluster, ecu, tranny (probably.. not sure how good the 2.3 trannies are????), 8.8 rear end, in-tank fuel pump, suspension upgrades to handle the extra power, wider rear tires for traction, the list goes ON and ON. Seriously it is much easier just to buy a 5.0, but I understand that you don't want to loose yours because of the money you have in it.. I'm getting into the same dilema :)
  18. I agree its a lot of work but...Most 5.0L guys use 4cl springs anyways since it lowers the front end a few inches. Since a 4cl stange don't come with a rear swap bar you could just get a set off a TC and they should help out with handling. The auto A4LD is basicaly the same gear box on both 4cl and 5.0L. The stick will bolt up but they got a hair different gearing. The 5.0L box is better to use with a V8. Now you will need a double hump cross member for dual exhaust when you do go to a V8. They are like 20-50.00 depending on where you go. The 7.5 rear end will do ok depending on how bad you trash the car. They do good in SVOs up to like 300 hp I think. But you would probly want to get a 8.8 out of a TC and upgrade to a Trac Lok for better traction. The intake pumps are the same but its probly better to upgrade to something like a 190lp/255lp just incase you want to get a little wild with it later on.
  19. with all this talk of swaps why not just go ahead and put in a modular cobra engine...still have to do all the same work... new harness, gauges, computer..etc.. and if i'm not mistaken.. aren't the spindles needed to be changed also to compensate for the additional weight of the engine... i dunno... just fantacizing about modular engines... :drool: