What else do I need to change the water pump?

impulse001

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Jan 16, 2008
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So my water pump needs replacing. I ordered a new one, but I read about needing a kit to put it in? Also, should I buy new bolts for it, if so where do I get them?
 
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SVT32VDOHC

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Well, I have always bought stock replacement which consist of a new water pump, and gasket. I have always been able to use my original bolts. I have had customers come in my door telling me that they have snapped their bolts in the block...so that is a common problem lately. Be carefull not to do that. If your bolts are rusty or corroded, I would replace them for sure. Clean out the holes with WD40 or PB Blaster and compressed air. Also, use anti-seeze or grease when reinstalling them. Do a T-stat and gasket, and the two little hoses that connect to the pump while you're at it.
 

impulse001

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That's good, what about during the replacement, is it just draining the coolant, taking the old pump out, and replacing it? Or do I have to remove anything else first?
 

Grn92LX

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You're going to need a gasket for b/t the timing cover and pump plate. I would pick up a better gasket also for b/t the pump and plate. Get fel pro's.
 

Shakerhood

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When I change them I like to trace the new pump on a piece of cardboard and then as I remove the Studs and Bolts I stick them in the cardboard that way they dont get mixed up.
 

89 Saleen#455

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As mentioned above, by far and away, the hardest part of replacing your waterpump is removing the old bolts and studs WITHOUT SNAPPING them off below the timing cover. Do a search on this forum for snapped waterpump bolts or accessory studs and you can read about the horror first hand. Snapping a bolt/stud will add another 4-5 hours to the job if it breaks behind the timing cover. Do yourself a favor and buy some PB Blaster and soak those bolts every chance you get. Heating the areas around the bolts with a propane torch or map gas will also help in the removal process. Whatever you do, DON'T USE AN IMPACT GUN to remove any of bolts and studs. I won't even use a breaker bar. Way too much torque. Just use a regular 3/8" ratchet and try and apply force in a "back & forth/ up & down motion. Try not to over exert too much steady pressure in any one direction. The key is slow repetitive back & forth motions. I highly recommend replacing the bolts and studs. You can buy all replacement grade 8 bolts at Lowes for short money. Here's the link for the accessory stud kit:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...rtnumber=23744
Each kit only comes with one long stud, so you need to purchase two kits to get 2 of the longer studs for replacement. Use plenty of anti-seize on all bolts and studs in case you have to replace the waterpump in the future.

Here's a helpful link outlining the waterpump replacement procedure. http://www.mustang50magazine.com/ho...victor_series_water_pump/removal_install.html
 

impulse001

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Jan 16, 2008
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Thanks for the help guys, I'm going to be doing it this weekend.

You're going to need a gasket for b/t the timing cover and pump plate. I would pick up a better gasket also for b/t the pump and plate. Get fel pro's.

Now, I know to get the gasket for the pump, but what are the b/t, timing cover, and pump plate, and where are the located? lol, i know.. but i'm new to this.
 

Grn92LX

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Now, I know to get the gasket for the pump, but what are the b/t, timing cover, and pump plate, and where are the located? lol, i know.. but i'm new to this.

When I said 'b/t' thats was an abbriviation for between :D Any good parts store should have both fel pro gaskets for the pump. When you get the water pump, you'll see what I mean about the 2 gaskets.