What ignition/distributor do you run?

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by sparx, Jan 16, 2010.

  1. That's the whole Duraspark control box. It does what the 4-pin HEI module does, but costs about 600% more.

    Here's some more about The Duraspark II and aftermarket options:
    Duraspark Upgrade
  2. Thanks for the link 65, I kind of thought it did the same job.
  3. The throttle body injection used a Duraspark also, but had the flat tappet HO cam. The TFI distributor came out with the 86's SEFI system.
  4. You can use the Ford box, I have two of them on two cars.
    I only pointed out the MSD box to show compatibility....
  5. I am running Pertronix II with their billet distributor and Flamethrower II coil. I think it is an great setup.
  6. Your not using "points" are you?
  7. As a matter of fact…

    One night I was on the freeway in a bad area, and at 70 mph it went stone dead. After looking the engine over for about a half hour, I discovered one of the point set's cam follower had broken off, shorting the ignition. A piece of cardboard from the roadside sealed them off, and I got home on the other set. Try that with a dead electronic ignition.

    Strictly speaking, though, if the car was still a driver I'd put Pertronix I in.
  8. I'm using Ford's EDIS module, OEM coilpacks, and no distributor. More accurate, multiple sparks (under 1800RPM) and no problems lighting up a .042" gap with 6-7PSI of boost.

    Probably more than you are wanting to get into tho.
  9. 65ShelbyClone,

    I know this is a very old post but I am doing the exact same thing. I am almost done with with 96 Explorer 5.0 build with TFS1 Cam and carb setup. For good street performance, I will be using an '85 Mustang GT 5-speed Duraspark distributor (steel gear for the roller cam) & vacuum advance.

    At this point I am not sure to hook it up to a GM 4-pin HEI module or use Duraspark Module. I can the Blue Grommet Duraspark Module for about $20 - same price as HEI module.

    As I understand it, the Duraspark does have timing retart for easy starting. Correct?

    Is the GM 4-pin HEI module offer better reliability ?

    If do get the Duraspark, would the Mustang GT 5-speed Duraspark Module the one I need ?

  10. go simple and reliable. start with an 85 GT distributor. get the one from a 5spd model as that way you get the carb version of the dist. it will be more expensive as it has a steel gear installed for the roller cam. wire that dist to a mopar orange ignition box, you can find a wiring diagram at www.gofastforless.com. the wiring is quite simple. top it off with an msd blaster lll ignition coil, and you will have an ignition that will light off reliably in nearly all weather conditions.
  11. rbohm, I see that you have a 64 Falcon. Well, this is what I am working on right now and need ignition for it!


    Attached Files:

  12. You most likely dont need this set up but I will throw in anyway. I use a MSD pro billit dissy that has no vac advance and is locked out at 35 degrees. Control box is the digital 6 with a HRC2 coil.
    I like the digital set up as I can program my own timing curve. This allows me to start at around 4 deg of advance to about 400 rpm then idle at around 17 deg. From there a curve from 17 to 35 degrees all in at
    about 3200 rpm. Many other options with the software and nice for tuning as you can see your RPM and ignition timing with your laptop beside you. Whatever you buy make sure the dissy gear is the correct material.
  13. 1.) I'm not sure what you want to do either. :shrug: Personally, I used a four-pin HEI module because it was cheap and convenient. If you can get the right Duraspark parts for a comparable price, I think that would be a better way to go. The Duraspark distributor will plug into the Duraspark harness; no cutting necessary as with mine.

    2.) Yes, it does. Nice, but not really necessary with 9:1 compression street engines though. None of the 11:1 horsepower war engines had any kind of cranking retard that I'm aware of.

    3.) I highly doubt one is more durable than the other. It's easier and cheaper to keep a spare HEI module in the car, which is what I'm doing until the EFI swap happens. Then if the coil driver pops in my ECU, I'm just SOL and have to get towed. :confused:

    4.) I suppose. I want to point out that I haven't used a Duraspark box. Everything you need to know about hooking up either one in this thread.
  14. Before I bought my Ford Falcon, I had a 1977 Olds Omega (Chevy Nova) which had a Carb setup. At one time, I was going to swap to TBI setup. For this I pulled a wireharness, computer, distributor, coil and all from a mid 80's chevy truck.

    I found a link below and realized that I could use the 8-pin HEI that is in the TBI distributor which I have already along with the coil with my Duraspark Distributor. I am going to take apart the TBI distributor and see which 8 pin HEI module I have.

    Going to try to use everthing that I have already first !

    Attached Files:

  15. same body style as mine. which engine do you have?
  16. I'm running a rebuild duraspark II distributor with a flame thrower coil and Street Fire MSD ignition. Has rev limiter and is small enought to hide under the battery tray. I'm realy happy with it and love the rev limiter. Used to run durasark box, coil and wire harness from a 86 F250. had to many problem with open wire.
  17. I have the 170 with 3 speed which will be coming out shortly. Going in: 1996 Explorer 5.0 with GT40 heads, TFS1 Cam, Alex Parts upgraded valve springs, Explorer 8.8 rear with 3.73. Here is the interesting part. I am putting in a T5 from a 3.8 V6 Musatng and yes a 3.8 V6 Bell housing. I found a way to use the 3.8 V6 Bell housing with the smaller 5.0 flywheel and hydraulic slave and master to boot. It took a while but managed to find a 70k 5.0, took it apart completely , rehoned it and will be assembling with new rings, gaskets etc...

  18. The dura spark is great with an automatic..however with my t5 I kept over revving it under full throttle runs..I finally ditched it for an msd dizzy and crane ignition that has adjustable rev limiter

    Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
  19. Not related to the OP, but there are reasons occasionally to run GM products a TH400 or a Glide might be a better option than a C-4 when you get past what a C-4 can hold.

    Anyways, I run the MSD crank trigger, MSD pro dissy locked out, the programmable MSD 6, and the MSD HVC-2 coil. I've had good luck with it so far. Timing is solid and does not move throughout the RPM band. With the programmable box there a quite a bit of options and room for growth. It has build in capabilities that will cover most street/strip vehicle needs. Probably not necessary for the OP. When I was a kid I had a blaster 2 coil, 6 AL, and used the standard non-vac MSD dissy. I used the weights/spring setup and allowed it to advance the timing. Also had good results with it. The car was much more tame then. The throttle response was very crisp. I thought it ran better than my friends who had fox body FI stangs.
  20. "Not related to the OP, but there are reasons occasionally to run GM products a TH400 or a Glide might be a better option than a C-4 when you get past what a C-4 can hold."
    I am not convinced that GM does anything actually "better" than Ford. Or Chrysler, for that matter. I guess I am kind of a brand "purist" though.
    I am that guy that gets offended when people put small block yvehc motors in anything built by Ford.
    I am looking forward to the day when my Cougar's are done, that I can get on my pick up project, which is a 55 chevy PU, powered by FORD.
    429/C6 or AOD/9-inch....Just to hear people bitch about it.