What is a good wax?

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05BlackV6 said:
Hi,

As you know I'm new to the car care world and was wondering what a good car wax would be. I have Turtle Wax F21 polish. Polish the car first then wax right?


NXT generation from i believe Mcguires. mmmmmmm it shines so nicely.
 
I use The Wax Shop's Safe Cut first. It smooths down the surface and creates a really nice, deeply reflective shine. It was highly recommended by my bodyshop. Then, for a protective layer, I use NXT Tech Wax, which is nice just by itself. For spot cleanups, I use NXT Speed Detailer. I've had more than a few compliments with various car guys on the depth of the reflection, including a lad with a lovely 70's corvette with a beautiful custom paint job. He said his son also has an '05 Mustang but the reflection isn't nearly as deep.
 
Safe Cut huh? I'll look into that. Has anyone ever used the F21 polish? How is it?

Now I think I saw the NXT tech wax in spray and I guess cream form( in one of those little round containors.) Which is better?
 
Here comes another horribly noob question. I've never polished or waxed a car before. A) How is it doen proplery? B) How do you know when it's time to do it?

Thanks for any help in advance,

Me
 
05,

1) Wash car
2) Wax car using the small round pads that are given to you with the wax you buy.
3) When waxing do one area of the car at a time, let it dry to a haze, and wipe off with a micro-fiber towel.

Mequiars and others sell a quick detailer that you spray on in between washing/waxing your car. When that becomes difficult to wipe off, it's time to wax again.

Basically, I wax my car every 4 months, or 3 times a year. But it all depends on where you live, how much it is outside, etc.

Good luck!!!
 
When it becomes difficult to wipe of the Speed Detailer? I have that and it is hard to wipe it all off now actually. It just spreads around. I've had the car about a month and a half and have washed it a few times and used the detailer. No polish or wax. Other than expected scratches from cloths and just everday driving the car looks and great. You think it's time for a wax?

Also should I polish it too? Not sure if I need it tough. As I said, it has good shine and looks great, but you're the experts.

Thanks gneal,

05
 
My other business, besides the Motorsport business is a detail shop (25 years)

Meguires: a good quick process (# 26 Carnauba followed with # 7 glaze)

Zaino: excellent product but plan on a lot of time for all the steps.

Our unamimous new favorite: Eagle 1 Nano Wax.

The nano wax is a quick 1-step process, nicely fills in light scratches and the shine rivals the Zaino and looks better than the Meguires 2-step.

Some of my customers have A-Bd both the Nano & Zaino and can't tell any difference.

It's not just marketing there is something to the Nano wax.
 
Zaino, self explains

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Something I recently learned that will save your car's surface from those painful swirl marks isto use a clay bar after you wash it, and BEFORE you use an orbital buffer. If you do not do the claybar step, you will swirl the surface. Washing the car does a great job of getting most everything off of the surface, BUT there is still trash (grit and dirt) dug into the clear that will be spun all over your car's surface with the buffer. The clay bar is designed to pick up the trash left behind after washing so that you are waxing on a completely trash free surface.
 
Claybarring is great for removing surface contaminants, especially if your dealer invoice shows it shipped by rail.

If you rub your hand lightly, and on a clean surface area, and don't feel or see any contaminants and it didn't come via rail use the Nano or Zaino without claybarring.

DON'T BUFF BLACK, period, unless cutting the clear coat to remove acid rain contamination.
 
Here is the perfect test to see if you need to claybar. Take a simple plastic sandwich bag and place your fingers/hand in it. Now slid your fingers (inside the bag) across the hood, fender, deck lid or wherever you feel like it. It really helps to find contaminants in the paint.
ZAINO is all I use. May take awhile to do the steps, but well worth it.
just my .02
 
J DeMolet said:
Claybarring is great for removing surface contaminants, especially if your dealer invoice shows it shipped by rail.

If you rub your hand lightly, and on a clean surface area, and don't feel or see any contaminants and it didn't come via rail use the Nano or Zaino without claybarring.

DON'T BUFF BLACK, period, unless cutting the clear coat to remove acid rain contamination.


Well, ****. What should people with black cars do?