What Is Considered "running Rich"

DuderMcMerican

Active Member
Mar 7, 2016
148
9
28
Woodbridge, VA
I suspect my car is running rich. It's not getting great mpg, and there's always been a faint fuel odor when I stomp it. Also, I feel it's not getting the acceleration it should.

How does one determine if a car IS running rich? Is the fuel odor a dead giveaway? Is there a certain MPG threahold that indicates it's rich?

Everything is stock--no deletes--in case that matters.

Thanks
 
  • Sponsors (?)


I suspect my car is running rich. It's not getting great mpg, and there's always been a faint fuel odor when I stomp it. Also, I feel it's not getting the acceleration it should.
IS running rich? Is the fuel odor a dead giveaway? Is there a certain MPG threahold that indicates it's rich?

Everything is stock--no deletes--in case that matters.

Thanks

A rich condition will set a code in the 4x/9x series of codes (41,42,43,91,92,93).

The gasoline smell could be due to cracks or damage to the gas tank vent system lines or carbon canister.

Code 85 CANP solenoid - The Carbon Canister solenoid is inoperative or missing.

Revised 11 –Jan_2015 to add warning about vacuum leaks due to deteriorated hose or missing caps on vacuum lines when the solenoid is removed.

Check vacuum lines for leaks and cracks. Check electrical wiring for loose connections, damaged wiring and insulation. Check solenoid valve operation by grounding the gray/yellow wire to the solenoid and blowing through it.
The computer provides the ground for the solenoid. The red wire to the solenoid is always energized any time the ignition switch is in the run position.

If you disconnected the carbon canister and failed to properly cap the vacuum line coming from under the upper intake manifold, you will have problems. You will also have problems if the remaining hose coming from under the upper intake manifold or caps for the vacuum line are sucking air.

Charcoal canister plumbing - one 3/8" tube from the bottom of the upper manifold to the rubber hose. Rubber hose connects to one side of the canister solenoid valve. Other side of the solenoid valve connects to one side of the canister. The other side of the canister connects to a rubber hose that connects to a line that goes all the way back to the gas tank. There is an electrical connector coming from the passenger side injector harness near #1 injector that plugs into the canister solenoid valve. It's purpose is to vent the gas tank. The solenoid valve opens at cruse to provide some extra fuel. The canister is normally mounted on the passenger side frame rail near the smog pump pulley.

Connecting the gas tank vent line directly to the intake manifold will result in fuel vapor being constantly sucked into the intake manifold. There is unmetered fuel that the computer cannot adjust for. The result is poor idle and poor fuel economy.

attachment.php?attachmentid=58191&stc=1&d=1241921055.gif


It does not weigh but a pound or so and helps richen up the cruse mixture. It draws no HP & keeps the car from smelling like gasoline in a closed garage. So with all these good things and no bad ones, why not hook it up & use it?


The purge valve solenoid connector is a dangling wire that is near the ECT sensor and oil filler on the passenger side rocker cover. The actual solenoid valve is down next to the carbon canister. There is about 12"-16" of wire that runs parallel to the canister vent hose that comes off the bottom side of the upper intake manifold. That hose connects one port of the solenoid valve; the other port connects to the carbon canister.

The purge valve solenoid should be available at your local auto parts store.

Purge valve solenoid:
smp-cp402_df_xl.jpg



The carbon canister is normally mounted on the passenger side frame rail near the smog pump pulley.
Carbon Canister:
903_AIRTEX%20_pct_2F%20WELLS_7310014_1.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
@jrichker
Appreciate the canister info. '94 GT 5.0 I bought recently (~ 3 months) gets poor mileage, otherwise runs perfectly well. It's my 4th. 5.0HO, so I'm accustomed to "good" or "bad" running. Car has had smog pump bypassed, shorter belt I suppose, hose connections to the check valves gone.

More importantly, the canister is gone, as are both the solenoid valves associated with it. I have not been "into it" enough yet to determine what the disposition of the vapor line was, but will soon.

Today I checked for stored codes, found none! Also, CEL proves out on start-up, turns off, stays off. How is it not throwing code(s), any ideas appreciated. imp
 
If you have no codes start with making sure the car has a recent tune up (cap, wires, plugs, fuel filter, air filter, PCV valve and screen).

Check that the timing is between 10-14* with the spout disconnected.

Make sure that the MAF is clean.

Double check all your vacuum lines and make sure there are no leaks.

Last if it hasn't had O2 sensors in a while replace them. They run about $25 each at Rock Auto. New O2 sensors took my car from a overall average of 14 MPGs to 20MPGs.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
"Last if it hasn't had O2 sensors in a while replace them. They run about $25 each at Rock Auto. New O2 sensors took my car from a overall average of 14 MPGs to 20MPGs."
@Dan02gt
NOW yer talkin'! Just put in new ones today. Originals look original, Ford marked, 161K, barely loosened them! Had to
return the 3-wire O2s the guy sold me, his listing said they were used until '98. I just couldn't remember, my '93 Cobra I gave to my nephew about 10 years ago. imp
 
"Last if it hasn't had O2 sensors in a while replace them. They run about $25 each at Rock Auto. New O2 sensors took my car from a overall average of 14 MPGs to 20MPGs."


@Dan02gt
NOW yer talkin'! Just put in new ones today. Originals look original, Ford marked, 161K, barely loosened them! Had to
return the 3-wire O2s the guy sold me, his listing said they were used until '98. I just couldn't remember, my '93 Cobra I gave to my nephew about 10 years ago. imp

Make sure you have the proper 3 wire O2 sensors. Only the 4 cylinder cars used a 4 wire sensor, which is not compatible with the V8 wiring harness.
 
Make sure you have the proper 3 wire O2 sensors. Only the 4 cylinder cars used a 4 wire sensor, which is not compatible with the V8 wiring harness.
@jrichker
I have Ford wiring diagrams for 1990 and 1994 Mustang. '90 5.0 shows 3-wire O2 sensors, '94 shows 4-wire. Oreilly guy sold me 3-wires, yesterday morning crawled under my '94, sure enough, they're 4 wire! Went back, a much more knowledgeable guy, Asst. Mgr., did not have in stock, but had same sensor with 2" longer leads. Exchanged for the 3-wires even up, though the 4s cost more. He said one of the fun things about being Mgr. is to be able to do things like that! Eng. runs real nice, just as it did with O2s having 161K on them........time will tell about gas mileage. imp
 
@jrichker
I have Ford wiring diagrams for 1990 and 1994 Mustang. '90 5.0 shows 3-wire O2 sensors, '94 shows 4-wire. Oreilly guy sold me 3-wires, yesterday morning crawled under my '94, sure enough, they're 4 wire! Went back, a much more knowledgeable guy, Asst. Mgr., did not have in stock, but had same sensor with 2" longer leads. Exchanged for the 3-wires even up, though the 4s cost more. He said one of the fun things about being Mgr. is to be able to do things like that! Eng. runs real nice, just as it did with O2s having 161K on them........time will tell about gas mileage. imp

Thank you for the update, I will make note that the 94-95 uses a 4 wire O2 sensor. Almost all the data I have collected is for 86-93 Mustangs, so this will be a new addition.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Thank you for the update, I will make note that the 94-95 uses a 4 wire O2 sensor. Almost all the data I have collected is for 86-93 Mustangs, so this will be a new addition.
@jrichker
Welcome! One supplier, Rock Auto I think it was, lists a 3-wire as being used up through 1998 in Mustangs, obviously not so. It helps if all is as up to date and correct as possible. imp
 
Thanks, y'all. It has been some time since I ran the codes, so I'll do that. I have since done a full tune-up, i.e., plugs, wires, cap, set timing, fuel filter, air filter, PCV valve/screen, checked hoses, and replaced O2s. So if it pops codes, I'll follow jrichker's run-down.