What is the best CAI for V6

Discussion in '2005 - 2014 Specific V6 Tech' started by bleeblee, Jan 29, 2006.

  1. I think AEM is the only one shown to not work so well. I have the K&N and it definately made a big difference (14.91 to 14.73 at the track)

    Dont know bout the other two
  2. IMO, theyre all about the same. There isnt much power to be had by spending $100 more on one that another. For me, it was hard to justify $200+ on CAI, so I made my own. Im sure if I spent more money on a legit intake, there would be more air flow, but not enough to justify the ~$200 price difference.
  3. E) None of the above. Get the C&L.
  4. I second the C&L... of course, you'll need a tune from Doug at Bamachips too to use it. This combination will truly change the way your car drives.

    Looks like all of those listed don't need a tune... out of those choices, I'd go with the air-raid.
  5. A good CAI requires a tune. Your airflow should improve enough that you will need to reflash your computer.

    The C&L has been shown to perform very well. The Tunable Induction kit also works well. The MMR kit is good, but too pricey.

    Right now the best bang for your buck would be a C&L or TI and an SCT XCALII.

    You will be driving a different car after that....
  6. ^I dont agree. There airflow isnt a night and day difference like some like to think. After talking to a few guys (SCT programmers) about what should be done after my CAI and catback, they told me the computer will not need to be reflashed. The computer can sense when certain things are changed, otherwise, simple changes such as temperature and air desity would have huge effects on how the engine runs if the computer was just on one fixed program with no le-way.
  7. You are correct in part. The computer does compensate and adjust. But some intakes REQUIRE a flash. Why? Some intakes trigger your CEL. Why? Is it becasue the airflow increases past what the computer is programmed to compensate for? And to fully take advantage of improved airflow and to get rid of pesky things like throttle lag, a tuner is a must.
  8. I can only comment on the AirAid, as that's what I have. With the stock air box and a K&N drop-in filter, to the AirAid CAI, I gained 6rwhp between dyno runs and hit the mystical 194rwhp wall :( - I like the look and was easy to install myself.:nice:


    Attached Files:

  9. you should think about pulling that off, having the bracket chromed and the pipe painted to match the car................then again i like getting every detail haha.
  10. Your all wrong about the reflash.

    The MAF is matched to the size of the inlet tube.

    Some aftermarket inlet tubes, like the C&L have a larger inlet tube, this throws off your MAF.

    Thats why the computer needs to be reflashed.

    It has nothing to do with increased airflow into the engine, only airflow past the MAF.

    The engine is only going to PULL as much air into the TB as it needs.

    A larger MAF inlet tube isnt going to change a thing. Except the balance in your bank account.
  11. Here is the stock air box vs the C&L in back to back dyno testing on my car. While it may not be as big as the claims there is a definite gain! There is no denying that things have improved!


    Now that I've uncorked my exhaust it would be very interesting to repeat the test and see how the stock air box compares to the C&L... Unfortunately I don't have the time or money to try it... :shrug: But I'm betting there my be a bigger difference...
  12. Okay...how can you have more airflow going past the MAF, but not into the engine?
  13. Why a tune is required...

    To calculate the air volume going past the MAF sensor the car's computer knows the size of the stock MAF housing and uses that to calculate the air volume. Change the size of the MAF housing and you throw off the calcuation. Example (i've got the graphs somewhere). Using my X-Cal2 I datalogged the stock air box and recorded different air flow parameters... I then installed the MMR and repeated... The results... According to the car's computer the MMR was flowing LESS air than the stock air box. Why? Because the MMR changed the MAF housing size. The MAF housing is larger so the computer was calculating LESS air than was actually entering the engine... so the car's computer seen LESS air so it called for LESS gas... So the car leaned out which give you the power gain...
  14. I think a $300 CAI for our cars is a big waste of money, period.

    Its my belief that the gains come from having a smooth tube between the TB and MAF.

    Of course, C&L and every other company that is fleecing us for $300 CAIs arent going to admit this.
  15. Not worth it??!!!

    You get a piece of plastic, a filter, and another piece of plastic! If that's not worth 300 bucks I don't know what is. I mean *TWO* pieces of plastic!! That's a *deal*....

  16. The price is indeed hard to swallow, and perhaps over time they will come down. But for now they are what they are, and if you want to get all the gains you can possible get, then this will have to be on the list.

    If you fab one on your own, do a before/after dyno and show some good gains, please let us know and how you did it.