What is the maximum horsepower I that I can put on a 5.0 with stock internals? What is the maximum RPM to use on a 5.0. '89 Mustang
- Thread starter Diablo
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I belive those hyper stock pistons may go before the stock blocking gives up the ghost, some where above 450 h.p. / 6'500 rpm. Just send it and let us know when it blows.
The EEC and most hydro cams are designed for 6250.
If you're doing all of that on the stock electronics and no tune please post video of the
If you're doing all of that on the stock electronics and no tune please post video of the
Which one is it, Chris Little who is about 900hp on a stock engine? There is no set limit on what a stock engine will handle. It's a mass produced engine, and it could spin a rod bearing stock.
Kurt
Kurt
I was told by a reputable tuner that with stock lower end that number is 500hp. Over that number the block is susceptible to splitting in half. At the water journals, I think he said, but don’t quote me on that location. I remember that number though because when he was tuning my car after the Vortech V3 install, and it put down 426 at the rear wheels, he did the math and said I was right at 500 at the crank, and didn’t feel comfortable turning it up any higher than that.
Did you see the part where I said I was using a Haltech 2500 ecu, or do you not know what that is?The EEC and most hydro cams are designed for 6250.
If you're doing all of that on the stock electronics and no tune please post video of the
Yeah, I've seen folks come here and spout off parts lists for more than 20 years.
Valid question. Why would anyone go through all the trouble and not know what the block limitations are?
What blower?
What nitrous kit?
Which injectors, High impedance or low? What driver are you using?
Aluminum upper and lower what? The stock pieces aluminum too. What brand? What do they flow?
Which throttle body?
WTF are GT heads? Are you talking E7s? If so, what a waste.
What cam sits in the middle of it all?
What long tube headers? Who made them? What size?
Let's put it this way:
Pics of the project or it didn't happen.
what about the RPM? I think that read somewhere the max is 6000rpm, but I also read that some guys said with stock internals they are going as high as 7000rpm.I am doing 400hp now without my spray, I am asking because I'm trying not to blow the motor. I'm also trying to make up time by using better drivetrain ratio I'm trying to keep the original motor in the car but if I do blow it what bigger ford motor would be an easy replacement? and thank you for your courteous reply,
@Diablo the attitude in a new member is not going to fly well here. Until we get to know you, please assume we are trying to help. We have no idea if you are are a kid with a credit card, a troll or are someone who really needs and will accept help. And until you get to know who is likely to drive across the state to help on a weekend off, you can click on the user’s name to get how long a member has been here, their reaction score, points etc.
IMO, more than 450 Hp with 7000 rpm and no extra balancing and tuning is about the limit. With special precautions and luck, 500 Hp is the limit.
It’s wild to see a block held together by the bell housing in the back, the timing cover and water pump in the front, and the intake when it splits the China walls, down the middle of the lifter area and then past the cam and crank.
Things like this look cool, but I do not know how much they will help with the top of the engine.
dssracing.com
IMO, more than 450 Hp with 7000 rpm and no extra balancing and tuning is about the limit. With special precautions and luck, 500 Hp is the limit.
It’s wild to see a block held together by the bell housing in the back, the timing cover and water pump in the front, and the intake when it splits the China walls, down the middle of the lifter area and then past the cam and crank.
Things like this look cool, but I do not know how much they will help with the top of the engine.
D.S.S. Racing - Main Support System And Pro-Tray Windage Control<meta name="description" content="D.S.S. Racing's Main Support System Dampens Harmful Harmonics That Cause Cap Walk And Can Crack Engine Blocks. The Main Support System Is Affordable An
D.S.S. Racing's Main Support System Dampens Harmful Harmonics That Cause Cap Walk And Can Crack Engine Blocks. The Main Support System Is Affordable And Easily Installed. D.S.S. Also Offers Increased HP With The Pro-Tray Windage Control.
dssracing.com
They also put heads on the car back in the early 2000’s. Edelbrock performers. It was a long time ago but I think I remember the owner telling me that with the heads you could wind her up to 6500 instead of 6000. Me personally, I wouldn’t go to 7000. Actually have my shift light set to 5800, and have a 6000 rpm chip in my MSD box to protect the motor in case I do something stupid.
I put nearly 500hp to the tire on my last engine and it went 85,000 miles before it had a failure unrelated to the block. I assure you it did not have a great tune on it. I've seen heads and cam engines split the block. It's a crap shoot.
Kurt
To re-iterate what @Noobz347 and @7991LXnSHO were asking. You have not given a whole lot of info on your combo. Those here for a long time have seen HUNDREDS of people ask this type of question only to vanish in the night. If you want good reliable help, please fill in the blanks when others ask clarifying questions on your combo. As also mentioned, pics REALLY help with understanding what you have.
So to demonstrate the blanks in information you have created and not answered one when asked for details:
What brand nitrous kit? What size of nitrous kit? Wet or dry system?
Aluminum upper and lower - I assume this is intake. Is it stock, Explorer, aftermarket or custom fabbed?
gt heads - Stock E7s, GT40s, GT40Ps, or others? Cast iron or aluminum?
long tube headers - what size - 1-1/2, 1-5/8, 1-3/4? It makes a difference.
haltech elite 2500 - I assume this is a stand alone ECU - Has it been programmed by a Pro on a dyno or by yourself in driveway or on the street? It makes a difference.
Like said above, if you want good reliable info, you MUST give better info and answer questions when asked. Not just move on to the next question.
Just my 2 cents.
So to demonstrate the blanks in information you have created and not answered one when asked for details:
What blower (brand, model)? What boost level?
What brand nitrous kit? What size of nitrous kit? Wet or dry system?
Aluminum upper and lower - I assume this is intake. Is it stock, Explorer, aftermarket or custom fabbed?
gt heads - Stock E7s, GT40s, GT40Ps, or others? Cast iron or aluminum?
long tube headers - what size - 1-1/2, 1-5/8, 1-3/4? It makes a difference.
haltech elite 2500 - I assume this is a stand alone ECU - Has it been programmed by a Pro on a dyno or by yourself in driveway or on the street? It makes a difference.
Like said above, if you want good reliable info, you MUST give better info and answer questions when asked. Not just move on to the next question.
Just my 2 cents.
That’s more like .97cents.
if you have to pry that much info out of someone asking for help....you're paying them to tell them how to fix their sht.
ThinBlue502
Mustang Master
And getting attitude, to boot.
I’m in the boat that “you did all that work and don’t know the answer to your own question?” Seems suspect...
I'd have to say 'you'll know it when it happens'
If it's a race car then the odds are higher but there are soooo many variables so nobody can say 'the block splits at 501.78 hp'
The more the builder sweets the small stuff the better chance it will hold together, it's a gamble
If it's a race car then the odds are higher but there are soooo many variables so nobody can say 'the block splits at 501.78 hp'
The more the builder sweets the small stuff the better chance it will hold together, it's a gamble
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