what is there to tune with for foxes?

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by Boostedpimp, Mar 21, 2008.

  1. Im new to tuning for Fords, i've tuned my gmc syclone with the ostrich emulator from moates.net and tunerpro software but I have no clue on fords..

    So I have a 91 GT stock block/heads/internals with a Cartech Street Sleeper with a T64 turbo, trickflow intake, 70mm tb, 80mm mass air, 40lb injectors, shorty headers, off road x pipe, dumps, afpr, efan, optima relocated, 3.73 gears, rebuilt posi, t56 6 speed, trickflow stg2 cam, blah blah blah

    Need to know what my options are as far as tuning this car.. like what do you guys use or what would be best?

    I've seen talk about SCT chips but I didn't think they worked with the fox ecms?

    I've seen PMS mentioned but it's about a grand.. anything a little cheaper?

    I have a laptop is there any applications that can be used to make the changes needed?

    Take it easy on me like I said im a noob to tuning with a ford :D
  2. Check out the Tweecer. The software that comes with it leaves a lot to be desired tho. I bought EECAnalyzer and BinEditor from here You can try out the software and get a feel for it for free.
  3. Please dont take this the wrong way but I ran across this on there website:

    "QuarterHorse for Fords
    For a low introductory price of $249, the QuarterHorse delivers in unparalleled fashion. It gives you absolute, bumpless, 100% realtime tuning AND realtime datalogging for all EEC-IV and EEC-V through 2004. It plugs into the J3 port like a chip, but its capabilities are stunning. You can change ANY parameter while the vehicle is running without disturbing operation. You can log ANY parameter in RAM from the EEC-IV and V at sample rates well over 2,000 frames per second through the same mini USB cable (no OBD cable needed). "

    In there description it says it allows datalogging. I just wanted to point this out because I like the fact that you can tune live while the car is running and like the datalogging feature also if it is in fact available. I really like the tweecer but affordability goes to the moates for me right now. not sure which way to go between the two. what else would I need with the quarter horse? like I said, I am in no way calling you out on this because I know you know your stuff. Just looking to get some more insightful info on pros and cons of both systems. Thanks:flag:
  4. You are correct sir! :flag:

    My first post was made before the QH was made available...

    In my opinion...
    The QH is the best tuning option we have available for Fox Mustangs.
    You still will need to buy a wideband, and invest in BE/EA... but you end up with more capability than you would with the tweecer, and at a lower cost as well...


    not sure, but the dates don't seem to be jiving...

    Anyway, I agree... the QH is a better value than tweecer... not sure what I was drinking, no I mean thinking, that night :cheers:

  5. I know you and I have talked about the tweecer before on another forum before but I really think I want to try out this new quarterhorse system. besides be/ea what else do you think I would need to get. I have a laptop ready and will be using this on my H/C/I combo which is n/a to learn it. Once I have it down I would like to buy another one for my blown 331. I would rather practice on the n/a and learn how to use it than blow the blown...lol thanks for the help....ed:nice:
  6. all you need is the QH, BE and EA and a WB and thats what you need to get the car tuned perfect.
  7. Posted via Mobile Device
  8. Sorry if this sounds stupid bit what is wb and can I get it from moates or where can I get it? Thanks
    Posted via Mobile Device
  9. Duh I just realized wb = wideband. Brainfart lol.
    Posted via Mobile Device
  10. welp, I decided I am going to go ahead and purchase a Moates Quarterhorse. One question, do I have to buy be, ea and have to have a wb at first. Can I get away with eeceditor?
  11. For starters you will only NEED QH and BE.

    EA and BE are a little cheaper if you buy as the pair... but it's only $10.

    The WB can wait, but you really don't want to try making extensive changes to the AFR with just the stock NB O2 sensor.
    I was able to steady out my idle and cruise conditions pretty well without the use of a WB. I didn't dare make AFR changes to the WOT portions of the tables using a NB stock O2 as feedback...

    I'm not 100% sure that eeceditor has been adapted for use with the QH :shrug:
    I recommend calling Moates for that info.
  12. Hey Jason. I did order QH, and the BE/EA package tonight. I am looking forward to using it. For starters I would like to be able to just straighten out idle, mass airflow transfer and basic part throttle driveability. I wont get into afr either until I understand the system better and have a wb. I hope it comes with at least some instructions to get started...lol can you recommend any forums or help groups for the qh like tweecer has? thanks...ed
  13. I appologize to the op for the thread jack.
  14. EECTuning.org • Index page
    Search through the stickies for some introductory info.

    There is a lot for you to learn when just getting started, so don't let it discourage you too much.
    Once it starts to click, everything will fall into place.

    Ask questions here, eectuning.org, *******.com, etc.....

    good luck,
  15. Any of the TwEECer forums would effectively be the same info as tuning the QH, since you're applying the same logic, and likely the same software (BE and EA).
  16. I guess I will go register on eec tuning. How do I go about staring with a base tune? Will I need to load a a9l .bin to start? Are there any base tunes for H/C/I setups? I am gonna have to do alot of studying until QH gets here.
  17. Yep, you would want to start with the stock tune that you have in your ecu.
    I suggest the following order...
    1. Change the idle rpm speed, just to make sure that setting changes in BE result in the change you desire. This gives you a chance to sort out any little problems that may arise from installation.
    2. MAF Transfer and Injector slopes will be your first change. If you have stock 19's then the stock settings are already correct, and you only need to change the MAF Transfer.
    BE and EA will have a ton of MAF Transfers to choose from.

    Another source that I forgot to mention is Tunexchange. This site was started by a fellow Stangnet member who is now working as a professional tuner (Stanger007).
    Wes has created 'templates' that allow you to quickly and accurately load settings for some common upgrades.
    For example, you could upload a template to your BE tune for 24Lb injectors. This template would have not only the slop settings, but also several other settings that have proven to help.
    Welcome - [tunexchange: Got TORQUE???]

    For some GUFB (A9L and X3Z) tune templates check the following link, and click on GUFB...
    Browse All Templates - [tunexchange: Better tunes, less fat]

  18. thanks for the info I will check them out. I included my combo in my sig if it helps better in directing me on where to start. I registered be/ea with Clint Garrity yesterday so I am already starting to nose around on how it works. Which wb is compatable with the QH? By the way I'm diggin your website.:nice:

    1989 Mustang GT - TFS Trackheat Heads, Trackheat Intake, TFS Stage 1 Cam, FRPP Timing set, FRPP 1.6 RR, FRPP 65mm TB, C&L 73mm, FRPP 24# Injectors, Mac 1-3/4 Headers (shorties), Complete Mac 2-1/2" Exhaust with Prochamber, T-5, FRPP 4.10 Gear, FRPP 31 Spline Carrier and Axles, FRPP Alum. Driveshaft, Complete Suspension (lowered).
  19. From what I hear the LC-1 from Innovate (~ $200) is fairly easy to incorporate into BE, either via the EGR input (if you have removed your EGR), or via a DATAQ.
    For info on DATAQ... Data Acquisition Starter Kits
    I *think* you are looking at DI-194RS or DI148U, but verify this with a search on eectuning.org... it's been a long time since I have put any thought into this...

    Once you have things sorted out and working properly, I would load the MAF Transfer for the 73mm C&L, Load the Template from Tunexchange for the 24's, and give it some time to settle in. Check the KAMRF's (feedback on the adaptive activity). You may want to tweak the injector values or MAF Transfer a little at that point.
    Then you may also see some impressive results to low rpm drivability with some tweaking of the Injector Timing. This is where I relied pretty heavily on EA, but EA will help you with the MAF Transfer and Injector slopes as well.

    There's some other stuff to work in there like vBat as well, but just those changes should make a noticable difference in how the car drives...