What is your opinion of the Dynacorn '67 fastback bodies?

[Mustang Gregg]

Anyone look over the Dynacorn bodies yet?

I have my '71 Mach1 done and driveable now. I am pondering getting a Mustang fastback for my wife. We had a '67 GT big block car many years ago and sold it. That owner still has it (and has since wrecked it), but he won't sell it back to us.

I would like to find another ('67 to '70) fastback for her. The only ones I have found in NE & KS are rusted pretty bad in the normal places. So maybe a Dynacorn body may be a place to start a new project. I do have the possibility of buying a '68 hardtop cheaply for parts.

What are your opinions of the Dynacorn? Any idea if they can furnish a title 0r MSO or what?

Merry Christmas,
Mustang Gregg

PS Sorry, I can't do much internet research on Dynacorn. I'm in Kandahar on military duty. Lots of stuff is blocked.

 

[jlangholzj]

PM sent

 

[Hack]

I would do it. I'm in the middle of rust fixes with my '70, and "might as wells" are killing me. Unibody is a good way to build a car, but if there's rust it gets everywhere between panels. Spot welds just don't prevent water penetration after 40+ years. Between the floors and torque boxes, between the frame rails and inner panels, under the seat pans, inside the cowl... even a solid car with no rust holes will have surface rust in the areas Ford didn't paint. Heck, my torque boxes were very solid but you should have seen the sand inside the passenger side - and the mouse nest inside the driver's side torqe box was huge! I'm glad I cut them out.

I'm just too anal to rebuild a car leaving all those areas alone - so I've been drilling out hundreds of spot welds, separating panels... I don't mind the work, but I think for most people a new body is a great way to go. Rust proof it thoroughly before driving it. Regarding the VIN you should look into the laws in your state. I think in some states you can move the VIN from the parts car to your car in order to have a VIN available. I think the main thing I would be concerned about is the spirit of any VIN law - you aren't trying to fake a Shelby or other especially valuable car and if you sell the car you tell the buyer it's a Dynacorn body.

 

[horseballz]

If I recall correctly, Dynacorn is authorized by Ford to use a continuation of Ford VIN's with some sort of extra character(s) that identifies it as a Dynacorn replacement. I think that's what I read a while back, but I could be mistaken.

 

[jlangholzj]

I would do it. I'm in the middle of rust fixes with my '70, and "might as wells" are killing me. Unibody is a good way to build a car, but if there's rust it gets everywhere between panels. Spot welds just don't prevent water penetration after 40+ years. Between the floors and torque boxes, between the frame rails and inner panels, under the seat pans, inside the cowl... even a solid car with no rust holes will have surface rust in the areas Ford didn't paint. Heck, my torque boxes were very solid but you should have seen the sand inside the passenger side - and the mouse nest inside the driver's side torqe box was huge! I'm glad I cut them out.

I'm just too anal to rebuild a car leaving all those areas alone - so I've been drilling out hundreds of spot welds, separating panels... I don't mind the work, but I think for most people a new body is a great way to go. Rust proof it thoroughly before driving it. Regarding the VIN you should look into the laws in your state. I think in some states you can move the VIN from the parts car to your car in order to have a VIN available. I think the main thing I would be concerned about is the spirit of any VIN law - you aren't trying to fake a Shelby or other especially valuable car and if you sell the car you tell the buyer it's a Dynacorn body.

we're in the same process with a 68 camaro. Drilling out thousands of spot welds and cleaning everything up.

I've never worked with a dynacorn body before or ford replacement panels for that matter but the chevy re-pops we're using are a PITA. Sometimes they fit well othertimes they don't.

Depending on how much moxy you've got I'd rather save an old girl than buy a new one. Some however are just too far gone. It might take a bit but there's some decent ones out there yet.

 

[Mustang Gregg]

Thanks, guys. I appreciate the help.
And I'll keep still looking for that low-rust fastback out there.
Merry Christmas from Afghanistan, too!

Mustang Gregg

'62 MUTT down
'63 F100 dead
'65 F100 running
'71 Mach1 near done
'08 F150 good

 

[64/2stang]

I think 15k is too much just for a body. However the rust free part would be awesome!

 

[WTFO]

I agree- I'd rather rescue some old girl from a field than muddy up the field with the new models. I still think it's cool though that these cars will around longer than any other car ever designed. No foreign jobber can say that.

 

[bikefreak600]

i spent nearly $10k for a rusted 65 fastback shell and replacement panels(nearly 95% of car). add in the cost of supplies ( tools, welding suplies, abrasives etc, electricity/heating costs over several years, it is probably cheaper to start with a dynacorn body. also consider the time + frustration added to fix a rusted heap. the sense of accomplishment for the work is a great feeling, just to say you actually built a car ! both options have there pros & cons.............

however if you can find a affordable rust free body is the best restoration option !

i feel the dynacorn shells are best suited for fixing (saving) a wrecked/ totaled mustang, where straightening the body is not worth the work.

 

[palerider94]

I'm redoing a 66 vert now. I've replaced 70% of the metal. Been on it for off on and on for 1 year now. Although it will be a lot less than than 15K if all the repairs were done by a shop it would well exceed that. Sure would be a lot easier with a new shell but would not feel like a restoration or classic - just a newer kit car.