what modifications would i want to stay away from

[autumn_again]

if i were to build my engine naturally aspirated,built up bottom end, H/C/I, gears, full exhaust. and keep it like that until i had the money for either a supercharger or nitrous.

i don't want to buy things because i have the money for them and then realize its not going to work as well as another part with what i go with.

 

[DDSTANG94]

it really depends on what kind of motor/car ur putting together....for example if you are building say a 331 u wouldn't want to buy a flywheel and balancer yet because they use a different weight

 

[Bosko5.0]

If you are going to boost it later on get big injectors now.

you can always trade or sell the parts you don't reuse.

 

[HGFireHazard]

That's a pretty broad question, do you think you can narrow down exactly what you mean by modifications you should stay away from?

Everyone has an opinion on what is necessary and what isn't, but I feel that with a good engine build and a future power adder, well, you need to be more specific.

Nitrous loves high compression, boost does not, so you should make up your mind on what you want to do. Some people are capable of running both, but I feel it's better to take your pick and design your engine around it.

Do you have a final HP/TQ goal you are looking for? If your number goes high enough the stock block isn't a safe, long term solution.

A power adder on a nice H/C/I leaves other accessory upgrades, such as your driveline (transmission, clutch, rear end), fuel, spark, and on and on.

I think you'll find that you can put tens, if not hundreds of hours into researching parts and things you want and still end up buying something more than once... that's just playing the modification game.

 

[autumn_again]

That's a pretty broad question, do you think you can narrow down exactly what you mean by modifications you should stay away from?

Everyone has an opinion on what is necessary and what isn't, but I feel that with a good engine build and a future power adder, well, you need to be more specific.

Nitrous loves high compression, boost does not, so you should make up your mind on what you want to do. Some people are capable of running both, but I feel it's better to take your pick and design your engine around it.

Do you have a final HP/TQ goal you are looking for? If your number goes high enough the stock block isn't a safe, long term solution.

A power adder on a nice H/C/I leaves other accessory upgrades, such as your driveline (transmission, clutch, rear end), fuel, spark, and on and on.

I think you'll find that you can put tens, if not hundreds of hours into researching parts and things you want and still end up buying something more than once... that's just playing the modification game.

not really sure on how much power i'm wanting.

i'm thinking 400 to the wheels.

but i may be fine with more or less, after all i figured i'd be fine with how much power the car makes now.


and what i mean by modifications i should stay away from, meaning like, i've read that for supercharging, you'd be better off with stock gears, vs, gears like 3.73s, 4.10s. etc. I was trying to think of why that would be, so i figured if i posted this here, people could give me an explanation of that, and more examples of things you don't want to run together.

i already have a rebuilt T-5 in my car, with Heavy duty gears in it from Astro-Performance.

i really want to go supercharger, but the problem is money, and lack of.

Nitrous seems like a good, cheap power adder.

The cars gotta be streetable still when i'm done.

i dont mind so much buying parts again, what can i do if i find one part that works better with one another besides suck it up and dish out the money.

i just would like to prevent that as much as i can, because it adds up.

 

[HGFireHazard]

not really sure on how much power i'm wanting.

i'm thinking 400 to the wheels.

but i may be fine with more or less, after all i figured i'd be fine with how much power the car makes now.


and what i mean by modifications i should stay away from, meaning like, i've read that for supercharging, you'd be better off with stock gears, vs, gears like 3.73s, 4.10s. etc. I was trying to think of why that would be, so i figured if i posted this here, people could give me an explanation of that, and more examples of things you don't want to run together.

i already have a rebuilt T-5 in my car, with Heavy duty gears in it from Astro-Performance.

i really want to go supercharger, but the problem is money, and lack of.

Nitrous seems like a good, cheap power adder.

The cars gotta be streetable still when i'm done.

i dont mind so much buying parts again, what can i do if i find one part that works better with one another besides suck it up and dish out the money.

i just would like to prevent that as much as i can, because it adds up.

I wouldn't stay with the stock rear gears, even with a charger. I have a vortech and 3.73s and I'm pretty happy. I can get 1st to roast if I want it to, but I can also get solid grip with little clutch slippage.

I think your gear choice also depends on what type of charger. If you wanted a KB I might use a lower gear ratio, but with a vortech I wanted to keep it in the powerband of the stock longblock. Maybe someday when I make around 500 hp/tq I'll change my mind, but that remains to be seen. My gear choice also depended on my transmission gearing. I have the TKO and I didn't want my first gear to be a dog.

400 whp could be attained easily with a mild H/C/I and a blower on fairly low boost levels.

You would want a MAF and 42# injectors, a HP 255 fuel pump for the blower, possibly a AFPR (it's a good investment), and a few ignition upgrades to help prevent spark blow out under boost.

You wouldn't have to go very radical with your H/C/I and it could be tuned to have quite mild street manners if you wanted it to.

However, if you so choose that 400 whp isn't enough and want more, you're going to spend more money than if you plan that amount of power in the beginning.

 

[autumn_again]

yeah i definitely have to replace my fuel pump soon, so when i do i'll throw on a better suited one for what i want.

at first i wanted to go KB, but after reading stories, and looking at prices, i'm more interested in paxton, vortech, and other similiar style superchargers.

right now i dont have the money, so its not like i have to decide right now, but i'd like to get a game plan before i start throwing money at the car.


one of the first things i was thinking of after full exhaust is rear end gears, but i wasn't sure what to go with because of what i've read about i guess just roots style blowers.

i think i'll just go with the main idea in my head of H/C/I and a supercharger. and if i want more power i'll run nitrous on top of that, or more boost. dunno.

my goal is around 400, but if it was more, i wouldn't say no thats too much haha.

this is going to be a track car, but mainly daily driver.

 

[Adam95GT]

dont buy projector headlights...

 

[autumn_again]

dont buy projector headlights...

damn it that was my next modification.
what about altezza tail lights?

i'm thinking of buying the carbon fiber interior kit for teh extra powerz.

 

[final5-0]

I'm gonna bottom line this for you as you said 400 to the wheels

Forget all that h/c/i A N D boost stuff

You don't need A L L of that stuff to reach your goal

Remember ... You're gonna cram in the mixture

Just get some Aluminum heads that will be better suited for boost
or
If budget is a real concern ... Scrounge up some cheap OEM 40's or 40p's

Get an adequate fuel supply, ignition, and tune it

Those are the main key things

You are all set

Grady

 

[BlackVert]

stay away from equal length shortie headers

 

[autumn_again]

stay away from equal length shortie headers

whys that?

i was actually looking at them, so its good to know to stay away from them now. because they were ones i was looking at.

 

[Pokageek]

DONT buy mallory fuel rails or a "jegs" catback system.

 

[autumn_again]

I'm gonna bottom line this for you as you said 400 to the wheels

Forget all that h/c/i A N D boost stuff

You don't need A L L of that stuff to reach your goal

Remember ... You're gonna cram in the mixture

Just get some Aluminum heads that will be better suited for boost
or
If budget is a real concern ... Scrounge up some cheap OEM 40's or 40p's

Get an adequate fuel supply, ignition, and tune it

Those are the main key things

You are all set

Grady

so with some better heads, better fuel pump, new ignition, and a tuner, i can keep my stock intake manifolds, stock camshaft, stock rear end gears, and reach my 400 hp goal?

with heads better suited for boost, will my car run like crap until i add the s/c on? or just run more efficiently when i do have a s/c on there?

i'd like to put new heads on soon, because i'm having problems with my current ones.

 

[autumn_again]

DONT buy mallory fuel rails or a "jegs" catback system.

neither have crossed my mind to even look at.

i'm fairly happy with my catback. i've got flowmasters welded in. i'll want something a little bit better once i've done my goal with my engine, but for now i'll just replace headers and the mid pipe.

 

[one_bad_5.0]

Don't buy a fart can or AEM or any other assorted Autozone stickers. They give limited power gains. Stickers +5 hp and Fart can +25

 

[Methodical]

Stay away from a to high of a compression if you plan to go blower or turbo.

 

[Methodical]

whys that?

i was actually looking at them, so its good to know to stay away from them now. because they were ones i was looking at.

I think your first ? to BlackVert should've been - Why not?

On a side note. If you buy parts you no longer need you can sell them easily. So not to big of a deal there.

 

[final5-0]

so with some better heads, better fuel pump, new ignition, and a tuner, i can keep my stock intake manifolds, stock camshaft, stock rear end gears, and reach my 400 hp goal?

with heads better suited for boost, will my car run like crap until i add the s/c on? or just run more efficiently when i do have a s/c on there?

i'd like to put new heads on soon, because i'm having problems with my current ones.

Any Aluminum head will give you thicker decks which is better for boost
and they will flow better as well. They could be some of the older FMS
heads or what ever you can find.

Adequate fuel supply is big intank pump, 42# injs and you'll need a
matching caled meter to go with them.

You'll need a hotter ignition to deal with spark blow out

You know ... common sense things

To make 400 to the wheels ........

You don't need a butch of fancy forged this and that

Of course the choice in rear ratio has nothing to do with the goal but as
you said ... why buy twice so I'd kind of think 355's or 373's since the
blower is gonna be involved.

Since it seems as this is a long term project and budget is a key factor

Just keep you eyes peeled for good used deals on the simple stuff
like headers, tb, and the like.

The point I was trying to make you don't need all the best parts
since the boost can make up for a few misgivings here and there.

If you wanna run NA for a while before boost then you might have to do
a bit of double dipping with things like inj's, maf, and such because what
works good for NA won't be adequate for boost.

Example: I don't see how you could run 42's without a tune
so
You might have to run smaller inj's while NA and the 42's later

Grady

 

[DDSTANG94]

so with some better heads, better fuel pump, new ignition, and a tuner, i can keep my stock intake manifolds, stock camshaft, stock rear end gears, and reach my 400 hp goal?

with heads better suited for boost, will my car run like crap until i add the s/c on? or just run more efficiently when i do have a s/c on there?

i'd like to put new heads on soon, because i'm having problems with my current ones.

why do u want stock gears soo bad ????