what to do next

[opiaTe]

I've read a lot of other threads on future mods and people asking what else they can do to get some more horsepower, but none of them fit my system.

I have a 2000 V6 stang with GT take-offs, a paceSetter off-road H-pipe, 2 dual chamber flowmaster mufflers, TransGo shiftkit for AODE, 18x8 saleen style rims, and a K&N air filter.

Having an automatic is fine by me IMO, although others may disagree. I figure that my lack of power in the low-end rpm's is due to the fact that I don't have the power necessary to utilize the catback exhaust. The lack of "backpressure" has already been discussed and I understand that instead of benefitting from the catbacks in the low-end rpm range, I get more power in the high-end.

Do you guys think that I should aid a densecharger to get some more air into the engine? Will that help utilize the catbacks? If I should go with it, which should I get -
1) 99-02 3.8 V6 Full Length Densecharger
-this consists of:

[4] piece ABS ¼" plastic intake pipes with CNC'd MAF Flange!
[1] Polycarbonate high gloss black unbreakable cover plates
[1] Raven Black/Chrome Decal
[1] K&N RU3130 Filtercharger™
OEM Sensor Safe Permatex
Instructions and Bulletins

[MAF Meter not included]

Price:$169.00 Delivered

2) 94-03 V6 Entry Level Powerpack
- this consists of:

[3] piece ABS ¼" plastic intake pipes with CNC'd MAF Flange!
[1] Polycarbonate high gloss black unbreakable cover plates
[1] Raven Black/Chrome Decal
[1] K&N RU3130 Filtercharger™
OEM Sensor Safe Permatex
Carbon Fiber upgrade kit
6 NGK V-Power Spark Plugs (Add $36 for NGK Iridiums, available for 98 up only)
Instructions and Bulletins

[MAF Meter not included]

Price:$121 + S&H

3) 94-02 3.8 V6 Densecharger and 75mm Bullett Pro-M
- this consists of:

[4] piece ABS ¼" plastic intake pipes with CNC'd MAF Flange!
[1] Polycarbonate high gloss black unbreakable cover plates
[1] Raven Black/Chrome Decal
[1] K&N RU3130 Filtercharger™
Pro-M 75mm Bullett MAF
OEM Sensor Safe Permatex
Instructions and Bulletins
Notify when ordering 01up models
price?

4) 94-02 3.8 V6 basic densecharger setup
- this consists of:

[3] piece ABS ¼" plastic intake pipes with CNC'd MAF Flange!
[1] MAF to factory hose coupler
[1] Polycarbonate high gloss black unbreakable cover plates
[1] Raven Black/Chrome Decal
[1] K&N RU3130 Filtercharger™
OEM Sensor Safe Permatex
Instructions and Bulletins

[MAF Meter not included]

Price:$94.00
+ Shipping & Handling


I figured I would give the most details (taken directly from www.densecharger.com ) to help with response time. Even the most basic setup is said to give you about 12-15 hp. Dunno what adding the Pro-M 75mm would do.

Maybe some underdrive pulleys would be the way to go. I've read that they aren't going to do much if a supercharger or turbo isn't planned for the future. On the other hand, some say that they are a great first step in adding some basic horses.

I just want to get some more hp/torque off the line. Do you think that changing my gear ratio to 4.10 or 3.73 would help me? Could my 18" tires and rims be weighing me down? I don't really want to go the headers/cams/intake porting route because that gets really pricey and can't be done in stages.

What else would I need to add if I had 4.10 gears installed?

Any help is appreciated. I know I asked a lot of questions and made this post quite long, but if you know an answer to one, it's better than no answer at all. Thanks!

opiaTe

 

[5-SpeedStallion]

I've read a lot of other threads on future mods and people asking what else they can do to get some more horsepower, but none of them fit my system.

I have a 2000 V6 stang with GT take-offs, a paceSetter off-road H-pipe, 2 dual chamber flowmaster mufflers, TransGo shiftkit for AODE, 18x8 saleen style rims, and a K&N air filter.

Having an automatic is fine by me IMO, although others may disagree. I figure that my lack of power in the low-end rpm's is due to the fact that I don't have the power necessary to utilize the catback exhaust. The lack of "backpressure" has already been discussed and I understand that instead of benefitting from the catbacks in the low-end rpm range, I get more power in the high-end.

Do you guys think that I should aid a densecharger to get some more air into the engine? Will that help utilize the catbacks? If I should go with it, which should I get -
1) 99-02 3.8 V6 Full Length Densecharger
-this consists of:

[4] piece ABS ¼" plastic intake pipes with CNC'd MAF Flange!
[1] Polycarbonate high gloss black unbreakable cover plates
[1] Raven Black/Chrome Decal
[1] K&N RU3130 Filtercharger™
OEM Sensor Safe Permatex
Instructions and Bulletins

[MAF Meter not included]

Price:$169.00 Delivered

2) 94-03 V6 Entry Level Powerpack
- this consists of:

[3] piece ABS ¼" plastic intake pipes with CNC'd MAF Flange!
[1] Polycarbonate high gloss black unbreakable cover plates
[1] Raven Black/Chrome Decal
[1] K&N RU3130 Filtercharger™
OEM Sensor Safe Permatex
Carbon Fiber upgrade kit
6 NGK V-Power Spark Plugs (Add $36 for NGK Iridiums, available for 98 up only)
Instructions and Bulletins

[MAF Meter not included]

Price:$121 + S&H

3) 94-02 3.8 V6 Densecharger and 75mm Bullett Pro-M
- this consists of:

[4] piece ABS ¼" plastic intake pipes with CNC'd MAF Flange!
[1] Polycarbonate high gloss black unbreakable cover plates
[1] Raven Black/Chrome Decal
[1] K&N RU3130 Filtercharger™
Pro-M 75mm Bullett MAF
OEM Sensor Safe Permatex
Instructions and Bulletins
Notify when ordering 01up models
price?

4) 94-02 3.8 V6 basic densecharger setup
- this consists of:

[3] piece ABS ¼" plastic intake pipes with CNC'd MAF Flange!
[1] MAF to factory hose coupler
[1] Polycarbonate high gloss black unbreakable cover plates
[1] Raven Black/Chrome Decal
[1] K&N RU3130 Filtercharger™
OEM Sensor Safe Permatex
Instructions and Bulletins

[MAF Meter not included]

Price:$94.00
+ Shipping & Handling


I figured I would give the most details (taken directly from www.densecharger.com ) to help with response time. Even the most basic setup is said to give you about 12-15 hp. Dunno what adding the Pro-M 75mm would do.

I'd go with the Full Length, which is kinda obvious, but it gets the intake a little further from the engine heat than the regular one, which is half the battle when it comes to replacing the stock unit.

Maybe some underdrive pulleys would be the way to go. I've read that they aren't going to do much if a supercharger or turbo isn't planned for the future. On the other hand, some say that they are a great first step in adding some basic horses.

They just dyno'd at 10.5whp/2rwtq or something close to that, so, thats pretty good bang for your buck.

I just want to get some more hp/torque off the line. Do you think that changing my gear ratio to 4.10 or 3.73 would help me? Could my 18" tires and rims be weighing me down? I don't really want to go the headers/cams/intake porting route because that gets really pricey and can't be done in stages.

1) Gears are definately good for some extra ::umph:: off the line. Auto's generally switch to 4.10's because they only have 4 gears, instead of 5, and are therefore in need of closer-spaced differential gears.

2) Yes, your wheels are slowing you down significantly, but they look infinately better than stock. All depends on what you care about. I wish my bullitts weren't so heavy, but I love the look, so thats why I have em.

3) Intake spacer is supposed to be good for a decent amount of low-range power (dyno'd at 6whp/8wtq, I think), and everyone I know who's gotten it, loved it. LSHOCKEY123 or something sells them for $95 shipped on 3.8mustang.com.

What else would I need to add if I had 4.10 gears installed?

You don't NEED anything, but unless you want to top out at 80 and not know how fast you're going, you'll need a chip (Ford Chip burn #1, or something). Also, most people put Traction Lock in with the Gears while they're in the Differential.

Any help is appreciated. I know I asked a lot of questions and made this post quite long, but if you know an answer to one, it's better than no answer at all. Thanks!

opiaTe

You're welcome, thats what forums are for. Good luck with the mods.

Blaine

 

[opiaTe]

I'd go with the Full Length, which is kinda obvious, but it gets the intake a little further from the engine heat than the regular one, which is half the battle when it comes to replacing the stock unit.



They just dyno'd at 10.5whp/2rwtq or something close to that, so, thats pretty good bang for your buck.




1) Gears are definately good for some extra ::umph:: off the line. Auto's generally switch to 4.10's because they only have 4 gears, instead of 5, and are therefore in need of closer-spaced differential gears.

2) Yes, your wheels are slowing you down significantly, but they look infinately better than stock. All depends on what you care about. I wish my bullitts weren't so heavy, but I love the look, so thats why I have em.

3) Intake spacer is supposed to be good for a decent amount of low-range power (dyno'd at 6whp/8wtq, I think), and everyone I know who's gotten it, loved it. LSHOCKEY123 or something sells them for $95 shipped on 3.8mustang.com.




You don't NEED anything, but unless you want to top out at 80 and not know how fast you're going, you'll need a chip (Ford Chip burn #1, or something). Also, most people put Traction Lock in with the Gears while they're in the Differential.




You're welcome, thats what forums are for. Good luck with the mods.

Blaine

Alright, it makes sense that the full length would help get the intake further away from the engine heat. That should be my first step in gaining some minor hp I am guessing.

I guess the only downside to getting a different set of gears is not knowing how fast I'm going 80+. On the other hand, I'm sure there are a lot of people out there like me who don't necessarily care after 80+ because either way if you are pulled over - you're screwed. Sounds like gears might be the best way to accomplish my goal. They could serve as a baseline for future hp-savvy mods.

For the underdrive pulleys, I looked at Steeda's V6 UD pulley and balancer for $179.95. It looks like I will need to purchase the belt with that too though, an additional $45.32. That comes up to $224.27 for 10 horses. It's not that I'm new to all of this engine modding and discussion of more bang for your buck, but god damn. I'm gonna have to look into the intake spacer instead and maybe if I get a better paying job, I will go for the UD pulleys. If anyone has any idea if I can get a set for cheaper, I'd be happier than hell to know.

Sucks about the weight of the wheels, but the looks do outweigh their downside. I'm happy with em and hopefully a set of gears will help.

Thanks so much for the info Blaine...have any ideas/links/preferences as to where I could get a timing advance adjuster and larger throttle body (75mm) for V6?

opiaTe

 

[Double T]

I have the full length Densechager and it is cool it adds hp to mid and upper end i talked to the owner and he said that unless you plan on putting the throttle body on then hold off on the MAF. I also read on other post that the throttle body i have is suffient enough i think its a 65mm? so unless you plan on supper charging or NOS hold off on the TB+MAF. Deffentetly get the DenseCharger though(full length)
My next set is pullies I think http://www.rpm-outlet.com has them for a pretty good price but you have to buy the belt and puller(if u wanna do it yourself)
my next step is gears (i also have an auto) everyone here says 4.10s but its my daily driver and i do a lot of city so I think Ill go with the 3.73s (hey its better than 3.27s) But every one that has changed there gear ratio has put the trac loc in aswell and im a little clueless as to what it does (2 wheel burn outs instead of 1???)
If you do change your gears you will have to get a chip/programmer to adjust ur speed b/c not only did you change the gears but also the tires and chips/programmers add a little power and firm up the shift/change shift points...
So Good luck