what to do now oil pressure 0, rattling lifters...

[slo65]

well as the title reads a while back i heard what i thought was an exhaust leak (at the time the oil pressure gauge was working fine) but n-e who i drove home then i drove to a friends house and my oil pressure dropped to zero so my cars been parked at his house. i drove a couple of days without knowing that it was probaly a oil pump or something so as u probaly know i did some damage, what should i do from here? my parents have said they would pay for a stock rebuild/new stock rebuild from a shop that would warrenty it... so basically i'm asking for some advice on what should i do, and whats the minimal i can do to fix it, or should i just go with the rebuild? i appreciate it (dont be too harsh i realize i kinda fuct my engine)

 

[Stang8URMPRT]

Stock rebuild isn't bad at all. Just used forged pistons and good, ie ARP, rod bolts. Sounds like the oil pump took a huge dump. Either that or your bearings are shot, but usually with worn out bearings, oil pressure will gradually get lower. But if you drove on it with no oil pressure and your parents are willing to get you a new motor... GET A NEW MOTOR!

Nick

 

[slo65]

does anyone know of any good shops in southern california preferably within driving distance i'm in whittier if u are familiar with the area and a ballpark guesstimate of how much the rebuild will be

 

[331 cobra]

There are lots of places down there, but before you spend all of that money on machine shop work, you should look in to a used explorer engine. Some times you can find them with less than 50k. They are pretty cheap and you get a better intake, and better heads.

You would have to get GT40P specific headers, but that isn't too expensive. The timing chain cover, distributor and water pump from your car would have to be transfered over, and then all of your fuel injection wiring would need to be swaped.

It is a big job, but not a huge job. If you are good with a wrench and have some common sense, you could do it in your garage.

If you can find the engine for around $800, you should be able to do the swap for much less than $1500 if you do the work.

The only hitch is smog. You won't be able to pass the visual unless you know a shop that will ignore it. Swapping your stock intake for smog is an option, but it's a hassel.

 

[Ray III]

If you've already determined that cause of lube failure is the pump, take the motor out and take the oilpan off, replace pump, check the engine bearings. Should be fine with new bearings, if it needs em.

 

[slo65]

if it needs the new bearings (i already bought a new oil pump) do u think it'd be worth just puttin in the pump and bearings if necessary and possibly new heads do u think it'd be ok, or have i done too much damage already? i tried going the junkyard route i was pullin a roller motor out of a lincoln lsc it was a sat/sun half priced sale and while gettin to the motor mounts i broke my swivel so yeah i didnt get around to going back, then i bought a engine i was told it was a 85 (first year of roller) but it turned out to be a non roller rusted pos so i was pretty mad about that... but n-e who back on topic if i just get a stock rebuild whats a price i should be looking for...

 

[D3l7a_3ch0]

hey i had a remanufactured 302 installed start-to-finish parts and labor for 3000. (block, radiator hoses, water pump, radiator flush, new ignition). and 3 yr. 50,000 mi. warranty. that's with your block traded in for core charge. if i could do it over again, i'd buy a frpp shortblock and have the engine shop use your old heads and buy new lifters/ pushrods (and maybe valvesprings). don't pay over 4,000. total for parts and labor.

 

[kevin2m4]

throw a new oil pump in with new oil, check the bearings and drive it for a little. you may as well, cant hurt a motor youre going to dump anyway. if theres any life left you may as well get it.

 

[TheRedBlur]

well, if you're engine's shot anyways, try putting in the new oil pump and see if that makes it any better, if the motor still ****'s on ya, then replace the bearings and/or shortblock/longlblock. you can always use the oil pump that you put in the motor. bad bearings/rings will not ruin your oil pump, they will ruin your mains and connecting rods. I dunno if you want to go the cheapest route or not, but the explorer engine Idea isn't a bad one at all. more power, better mileage, what more do you want?

 

[sublime29]

I would just go get a summit ho 302 around 2000 bucs.If they still have them.If not shop around they plenty of them.New complete with everything heads fuel injection all straight from ford.Install it yourself.Go get a a price from a shop for a reman block and install.Call summit and take the numbers to the parents.Install the engine yourself and mark every wire vacuum line(very important why buy a book its already in front of you) and clean and spray the bay when engine is out.Install the new gem.Then have satisfaction of a job well done and know you can replace anyones engine and make some side cash if need be.

 

[Js5ohLX]

So this explorer engine option, is it the same block? What pistons? I can buy a whole explorer motor for cheaper than heads and intake, would I be better off just using the whole engine?

 

[331 cobra]

Yes it's a roller 5.0 block, hypereutectic pistons, GT40p heads, explorer intake (very similar to '93 cobra intake), good bearings and lower mileage. They came in the Explorer and Mountaineer untill 2001 I believe.

Lots of people buy an explorer engine, and swap the heads and intake on to their 5.0, but it's probably a bunch easier to leave the explorer engine assembled and just swap the engine and fuel injection electronics. The explorer has the OBD2 EECV computer with an 80 pin connector and EDIS, so you have to swap back to the mustang EFI.

I don't know why more people don't do it. Especially with the stories of 150,000 mile 5.0's running strong. You get an engine with at least 75,000 miles left on it, better heads and intake for less than $1500 if you can do the work yourself.

You can't get better heads for less than $600, the intake is worth about $250, so the used short block and swap parts costs less than $650. Any one with a bad motor should look at this option.