What To Do,.....what To Do.

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Birmingham, al
So,......I'm sitting here flip flopping on what I want to do w/ the car to "improve" it. Not one to be content very long,...the novelty of having a foxbody w/ 1968 sheet metal added has become a "So What"? for me. I have been blathering on here for quite some time now about my intention to put 4 weber carburetors on the engine as my "next big thing", and I have worked out most of the details if I decide to to that, but the job is daunting nonetheless. So,....just so you can appreciate the task, I've decided to break it down for you:

#1. a 4.6 has a plastic intake manifold w/ and aluminum water crossover that includes the thermostat housing. I will have to get a junkyard plastic intake so I can cut off the aluminum crossover to use on the new intake manifold I have to build.

#2. while I have the JY intake, and before I cut it up for the water crossover, I use it as a template and transfer the port spacing and deck width over to a 1/4" piece of plate aluminum. I will have to cut out the ports w/ a hole saw and hand shape the remaining port shape using a die grinder.
I have to have aluminum stand offs made that will in effect become the transitions for the mounting flanges for the Webers that will be epoxied over the newly finished ports in the 1/4" plate. At this time, I do not know the bore spacing of the Weber. I do not how tall the standoffs will have to be to allow a smooth transition from the base of the carbs, to the intake port. Unless I get really lucky, those standoffs may be up to 2" in height.

#3. The webers look to be about 7-8" in total height, and even w/ a short standoff,...those velocity stacks are gonna stick outta the hood,...in an entirely dirrerent place than the existing hole in the hood is now,...and the existing Boss9 hood scoop will not cover the stacks. (not that I'd want to anyway,...but there is the rain to consider)

#4. Once the 4 carbs are sitting on the intake manifold, now there is a relatively complex throttle linkage to design and implement that allows me to fine tune the opening of the throttle on all four carburetors simultaneously. There are existing linkage kits that are presently available for the other V8's that are out there, so I should be able to find one that will require a minimal amout of modification to make it work.

#5. The coil packs will be all in the way of the new carburetors,..so I'll have to throw them away, and convert the system over to the earlier style where there were two 4 post coil packs mounted in front of each head w/ spark plug wires running to each plug respectively.

#6. Even after getting the manifold built, the water passage mated to the new plate base, the carburetors are notorious for needing to have the throttle blades squared to the bore, and the float level set to be sure that they are at spec, requiring that I disassemble brand new carburetors before I run them for real. They will have to have an extra 1 mm hole drilled in them to add an extra degree of off idle throttle response. AND after all of that,....the carburetors will probably require hours of tuning, and several hundred more dollars of air jets, and fuel jets to get them to a place where I'd call them "tuned".

Why would I do all this if its' that much of a pain in the ass you might ask?,.....I have to say I'm wondering........but wouldn't it be cool?

The other, less involved "modification" has also been rolling around in my head forever as a plan B,....That is to plumb the existing manifold w/ a N2O fogger system. The "WHOA" factor when popping the hood and looking at a engine sporting that system is admittedly why I'd consider going that route, BUT,.... I sure as hell DO NOT intend to use it.

The reason I'd do either is to kick the car to the next level. The carburetors will be an enormous pain in the ass,...I expect the system to end up costing between 1500-2000.00. I'd hate to spend that much to take such a nice running combo, and have it run poorly, or at the very least not as good as it does now. The Nitrous system will cost half that, but will be purely for onamentation, as I could give a rats ass to try and tune it at the risk of hurting the motor, and I am perfectly happy w/ the current power level anyway. The premise of spending 800.00 on a fogger purely to change up the current system w/o ever intending to use it is the reason there isn't one on there as of this writing,.....seems pretty stupid upon reflection.

The only thing I can think of that is even remotely "smart" about plan B is.....that it'll be done in a day,..it wont affect the driveability one bit. It wont get hotter, or lose even a1/4 of a MPG over the current and,............. I wont have to spend another dime on it until or unless I fill the bottle(s).

So,...like it says,......what to do,......what to do.
 
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I would not vote for the fogger system. Sounds like you would be doing it for the enjoyment of others, ie: the WHOA factor you mentioned. If you're never going to use it, what's the point? And the WHOA factor doesn't count.

The Weber system would be a personal challenge of sorts for you, while still maintaining a wow factor and doing something very different.

Even though I don't think you need to do anything, if I have to pick I'd say the Weber carbs.
 
Pfft.. Everyone knows for wow factor you poke a 6-71 through the hood, ask Mad Max.
THAT would match the 60's motif.:nice:
 
Pfft.. Everyone knows for wow factor you poke a 6-71 through the hood, ask Mad Max.
THAT would match the 60's motif.:nice:

Yeah,......another idea that lasted in my head for about the life span of a gnat.

Too much money.
A detriment to existing drivability.
Even harder to fabricate an intake, as now a blower drive is competing for space that an alternator is currently living in. Additionally,...there's that belt that nobody makes a tensioner kit or bottom pulley for.
I gotta buy two new carburetors,... (linkage again) As what self respecting, huffer wheezing, hot rod would show up to the party w/ a single,discontinued Holley from Summit sitting on top of that thing.:nonono:

Welll it sounds like either way it's for the WHOA factor, the fogger is easier but the four carbs is more of a WHOA to me. But the money just isn't there.
Flip a coin!

Well of course it's for whoa factor. Why does anybody take the time to weld ninety thousand holes shut, replace the front fender aprons w/ aftermarket pieces, fill and smooth an engine bay to a degree where an engine compartment is exactly the same as the exterior finish, and then stuff it w/ plated, anodized, and powdercoated pieces if not for whoa factor?:cool: ** note......I did none of that stuff to mine.

Flip a coin.....:chinhmmm,....now there's a scientific approach to this dilemma, why didn't I think of that already. I would've saved myself the 30 minutes it took to write the novel that makes up the thread.

I would not vote for the fogger system. Sounds like you would be doing it for the enjoyment of others, ie: the WHOA factor you mentioned. If you're never going to use it, what's the point? And the WHOA factor doesn't count.

The Weber system would be a personal challenge of sorts for you, while still maintaining a wow factor and doing something very different.

Even though I don't think you need to do anything, if I have to pick I'd say the Weber carbs.

Ahhh that's what I need,....a personal challenge of sorts that costs twice as much as the "do it in my sleep" skill required to accurately bend 16 steel brake lines to intersect 32 seperate threaded fittings, mating the distribution block to the 8 fogger nozzles, where I had to drill the holes all in the same angle and plane and then tap each w/ a 1/16th pipe plug tap that I have be careful to not go too far so as not to be able to get the nozzle in tight before I run out of thread.
PPHHHTT,.....you're right! I'd probably get b itchslapped for even opening my hood w/ just a lowly fogger on the engine,....what was I thinking?:shrug:

And the WHOA factor does count.....It's why you buy a chrome piece,...( cause it don't go or last longer than the painted, or plastic piece Ford put on it. (read billet fuse box cover)).
If people didn't care about WHOA factor, they'd just leave their hoods shut, and the companies making SuperChargers would just leave their products rough cast,....after all, who cares how a $5,000.00 S/C looks as long as it makes 631 RWHP?
It ain't just me.:banana:
 
Ahhh that's what I need,....a personal challenge of sorts that costs twice as much as the "do it in my sleep" skill required to accurately bend 16 steel brake lines to intersect 32 seperate threaded fittings, mating the distribution block to the 8 fogger nozzles, where I had to drill the holes all in the same angle and plane and then tap each w/ a 1/16th pipe plug tap that I have be careful to not go to far so as not to be able to get the nozzle in tight before I run out of thread.
PPHHHTT,.....you're right! I'd probably get b itchslapped for even opening my hood w/ just a lowly fogger on the engine,....what was I thinking?:shrug:

Machine shop tip: Build a jig to set and fasten the intake into for proper angle. Since you don't have a mill, use a drill press and set up a stop to slide the jig along to maintain your proper plane. Clamp jig to press table for each hole drilled and tapped. You can buy a small end mill to chuck up and spot face each hole location before drilling to give you a good flat spot to begin with. Rule of thumb with pipe tap is to leave 6-9 threads showing on tap for proper engagement. I mark them with a paint pen so my blind hind end can see it and not have to count while tapping. You can also buy a tool for tapping in a mill/press that is a spring loaded center. Chuck it up and poke it into the center hole of the tap to hold it straight in the hole. If I can find mine, I'll post a pic later.. IF you don't have a drill press-BUY ONE.. They are invaluable!
 
Machine shop tip: Build a jig to set and fasten the intake into for proper angle. Since you don't have a mill, use a drill press and set up a stop to slide the jig along to maintain your proper plane. Clamp jig to press table for each hole drilled and tapped. You can buy a small end mill to chuck up and spot face each hole location before drilling to give you a good flat spot to begin with. Rule of thumb with pipe tap is to leave 6-9 threads showing on tap for proper engagement. I mark them with a paint pen so my blind hind end can see it and not have to count while tapping. You can also buy a tool for tapping in a mill/press that is a spring loaded center. Chuck it up and poke it into the center hole of the tap to hold it straight in the hole. If I can find mine, I'll post a pic later.. IF you don't have a drill press-BUY ONE.. They are invaluable!

And to think,....all this time I was planning on doing it by hand w/ my B&D 3/8" drill.:rolleyes:
 
I vote for the Webers for a couple reasons. The Wow factor is higher than the fogger system, and you will be kept occupied longer doing the fab work. If money were the issue, you wouldnt be considering either of them. I think that you and I share the same, "OK finished that mod, now what do I want to do next" trait. There is no end, so you might as well do something challenging that will occupy you for a while. Plus, that is such a unique mod versus the n20 when it comes to you car being showed, or getting in another mag.
 
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I like the Webers, but I also like the blower. Might I suggest:

10-16-2007-75-1.jpg
 
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I vote for the Webers for a couple reasons. The Wow factor is higher than the fogger system, and you will be kept occupied longer doing the fab work. If money were the issue, you wouldnt be considering either of them. I think that you and I share the same, "OK finished that mod, now what do I want to do next" trait. There is no end, so you might as well do something challenging that will occupy you for a while. Plus, that is such a unique mod versus the n20 when it comes to you car being showed, or getting in another mag.

I was hoping that I would get talked out of doing it actually.
(Doesn't look like that is gonna happen though):nonono:

The Webers, (or EMPI EPC 48's as that is what they will end up being) can be bought at 299.00 ea as I can afford them, so they are actually easier than having to plop down the 800.00 at once I'll have to do if I choose the fogger.

I'll order the first one tommorrow, after I deposit the saved amount in the bank so I can do that. I know that that will compell me to follow on w/ carbs 2,3, and 4 after I get one in hand.

I just needed the little push to jump in the pool.

Thanks. :nice:
 
I was hoping that I would get talked out of doing it actually.
(Doesn't look like that is gonna happen though):nonono:

The Webers, (or EMPI EPC 48's as that is what they will end up being) can be bought at 299.00 ea as I can afford them, so they are actually easier than having to plop down the 800.00 at once I'll have to do if I choose the fogger.

I'll order the first one tommorrow, after I deposit the saved amount in the bank so I can do that. I know that that will compell me to follow on w/ carbs 2,3, and 4 after I get one in hand.

I just needed the little push to jump in the pool.

Thanks. :nice:

But you'll end up paying way more in shipping if you buy them ala-carte.