What universal joint for a Ford Racing aluminm drveshaft?

jrichker

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Mar 10, 2000
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What is the part number for U joints for a Ford Racing Aluminum driveshaft?

I spent 30 minutes on hold for Ford Racing Help and finally gave up and told the customer rep to email me the answer. That was Tuesday or Wednesday this week and I still haven't gotten an email.

I tried Moog 270 U joints but the cross is about 3 MM (1/8") too wide. The Moog part 270 was what the parts catalog showed for the stock steel driveshaft.
With the Moog 270 U joints you can't get the locking clips in both sides. If you try, the U joint doesn't move easily, it seems to bind.
 
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After some digging in an old Ford Racing parts catalog, I found out that the Spicer 1330 U joint was the proper replacement. I got the 1330 variant that had grease fittings, and was about %50 more expensive that the U joints without grease fittings. The O' Reilly Auto Parts manager made a compromise and I got them for less than the advertised price.

The 1330 U joints fit in and all the snap rings locked in the grooves just like they were supposed to do.
 
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Same thing happened to me last January.

I first tried Moog Precision 270; they did not fit the yoke of the factory steel driveshaft.
I destroyed them trying to make them fit. RockAuto gave me full refund.
They still the 270 as a replacement part.

Then I bought the Ford aluminum driveshaft.
Then as a "science project" I tried Spicer 1330X which did fit the factory steel driveshaft.
I now have a perfectly rebuilt Ford factory steel driveshaft.
 
After some digging in an old Ford Racing parts catalog, I found out that the Spicer 1330 U joint was the proper replacement. I got the 1330 variant that had grease fittings, and was about %50 more expensive that the U joints without grease fittings. The O' Reilly Auto Parts manager made a compromise and I got them for less than the advertised price.

The 1330 U joints fit in and all the snap rings locked in the grooves just like they were supposed to do.
We have a couple good driveline shops near due to the high volume of trucks by the ports. They got me some of the spicer u-joints for A 1330 yoke, for less than the parts stores could nonetheless. I get the non greasable ones though. Rather not have a hole drilled through the body of the joint.
 
We have a couple good driveline shops near due to the high volume of trucks by the ports. They got me some of the spicer u-joints for A 1330 yoke, for less than the parts stores could nonetheless. I get the non greasable ones though. Rather not have a hole drilled through the body of the joint.
I think all of them have the hole through the joint. The only difference is that the more expensive version of the 1330 has a hole tapped into one of the bearing caps and uses a different snap ring for that bearing. That way every cross goes down the same machining and assembly line.
 
I think all of them have the hole through the joint. The only difference is that the more expensive version of the 1330 has a hole tapped into one of the bearing caps and uses a different snap ring for that bearing. That way every cross goes down the same machining and assembly line.
They do not. The solid u joints have no grease passages drilled through the cross. You can actually tell a difference in the forging, the solid body ones done have the boss for the zerk fitting

Shoot I just noticed you’re from Dublin. Savannah over here, pretty close.