What Would You Buy?

Which one

  • Green Hatch

    Votes: 1 7.7%
  • Silver/Grey

    Votes: 11 84.6%
  • Nothing

    Votes: 1 7.7%

  • Total voters
    13
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You've probably already thought about these points, but I just wanted to chime in. After the recent auction the spotlight is definitely back on the Foxbody market. It's going to be harder and harder to find straight cars at decent prices. The true V8 car will always be worth just a little bit more than a conversion, but it will almost always have been driven much harder. If I were going to try and sell it again I would go with the V8 car. But if I wanted a really clean car that I didn't plan on reselling anytime soon, I would pick an unmolested 4 banger.
 
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You've probably already thought about these points, but I just wanted to chime in. After the recent auction the spotlight is definitely back on the Foxbody market. It's going to be harder and harder to find straight cars at decent prices. The true V8 car will always be worth just a little bit more than a conversion, but it will almost always have been driven much harder. If I were going to try and sell it again I would go with the V8 car. But if I wanted a really clean car that I didn't plan on reselling anytime soon, I would pick an unmolested 4 banger.

See normally that makes sense, however if the torque boxes are straight, no history of wrecks, rad support is straight.

Then I plan on swapping over my suspension parts and driveline....then what is there to be to be affected by driven harder aspect? The chassis itself?

All valid points and I appreciate the feedback.

There are a lot of factors that go into this. The 3 main ones are the amount of work it take the current coupe to rival the current rollers aesthically (money wise no work), value of overall car, and insurance value.

If I wanted just a drag/driver that I can just beat on and have no worries then I'm there. However, I'm looking more I guess of the cruiser, wax and drive aspect....guess I'm getting older haha
 
See normally that makes sense, however if the torque boxes are straight, no history of wrecks, rad support is straight.

Then I plan on swapping over my suspension parts and driveline....then what is there to be to be affected by driven harder aspect? The chassis itself?

All valid points and I appreciate the feedback.

There are a lot of factors that go into this. The 3 main ones are the amount of work it take the current coupe to rival the current rollers aesthically (money wise no work), value of overall car, and insurance value.

If I wanted just a drag/driver that I can just beat on and have no worries then I'm there. However, I'm looking more I guess of the cruiser, wax and drive aspect....guess I'm getting older haha

If the torque boxes and rad support are straight, then the only other concern I would have are the body lines and gaps. I don't have to tell you how much these cars flex! I have a two owner 4 banger hatch for sale with 120k original miles if you're looking. It has the factory radio and original vapor barriers still intact behind the door panels. Talk about unmolested!

I feel you on the getting old part, why the hell did I take my A/C out years ago :fuss:
 
If the torque boxes and rad support are straight, then the only other concern I would have are the body lines and gaps. I don't have to tell you how much these cars flex! I have a two owner 4 banger hatch for sale with 120k original miles if you're looking. It has the factory radio and original vapor barriers still intact behind the door panels. Talk about unmolested!

I feel you on the getting old part, why the hell did I take my A/C out years ago :fuss:
You don't need A/C in North Carolina by the time you blink it's nice and warm to cold as crap...look at this weekend compared to now.
 
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See normally that makes sense, however if the torque boxes are straight, no history of wrecks, rad support is straight.

Then I plan on swapping over my suspension parts and driveline....then what is there to be to be affected by driven harder aspect? The chassis itself?

All valid points and I appreciate the feedback.

There are a lot of factors that go into this. The 3 main ones are the amount of work it take the current coupe to rival the current rollers aesthically (money wise no work), value of overall car, and insurance value.

If I wanted just a drag/driver that I can just beat on and have no worries then I'm there. However, I'm looking more I guess of the cruiser, wax and drive aspect....guess I'm getting older haha
We all go through the mod bug and the tear it down and build it up phases which is expensive and fun. Then after a while you just want a nice driver and do little simple (get it done over a weekend) type upgrades and car washes. Nothing wrong with that at all. If wax and drive, resale value, and clean looks is what you're after then the choice is clear IMO. You could probably make that gray car (which is a great color!) a driver in just a few days of wrenching. It has good parts and good bones, question is why wouldn't you choose it?
 
Gray sucks. 75% of cars and trucks on the road are some variant of gray or silver. It all runs together. I've bought a variety of used cars the last 20 years for toys or work beaters based on condition and price... and SIX of them were gray or silver. Ick! If you gave me a gray car, I'd sell it. Burned out, big time. I'm not saying dsg or titanium frost are ugly.. but if you are going to have a special car, don't you want it to stand out from all of the current production cars?

Oh, and wheels get changed out. Buying a fox because of the wheels currently on it is (non diplomatic comment).... dumb.
 
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Well I am setting up to look at both...I may just buy both but drive the grey one and surprise the wife with the other.
 
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