What's it take to beat a Mach1

Look I m not trying to be a butt LOL,its just that nitrous is dangerous,especially f used wrong.Now stanglover,read my post again I was giving the nitrous car an avantage with 250 RWHP just to be nice,but it still did not compare to the KB in PEAK power.But I know how nitrous power curves are,in that your peak power is USUALLY at whatever RPM you first spray it at,so if you have traction and spray it off the line,you will have some crazy times.Now mustangman,yes if you put only a 100 shot then yea it will last a little while,but look a 100K engine is already worn and has lost a lot of compression,so in a way its a little easier on it,but the egine is also weaker.Now joel this isnt ricer math,it is just facts.The only ricey posts are from you,when just like a ricer you starded digging up past posts on DIFFERENT subjects cuz you didnt have anything else on me.AND also there is really no false information there,just I am pretty sre,not too shure,may do this,kind of posts so thats not false due to the fact that never set it in stone.Yea Gino I did dissregard things like raceweight because even right now the N20 guys are crying for more weight peneltys on SC cars because they want their ETs to be closer in BRs so we will not go there.Nitrous gets beat hands down in highend racing.Now about reliability,if your motors built for N20 it will last quite a while,but a stock engine is not designed for it,nor for SCs and both WILL cut engine life.In lower shots of 50-75,a stock motor will be almost unaffected and will last a long time,but when you start being a man and go past 100-150 then you stock engine is in danger,and besides like KIRKYg said,it is way easier to mess up with N20 and ruin your engine.All it takes is for the N20 solenoid to screw up,and your engine is SHOT.Personally I dont want to take that kinda of risk with a perfectly good motor.
 
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Everyone talks all this crap, and I bet less then half of you have a real idea of whats going on. Most of you guys make generalizations that are to broad. "nitrous is good", "nitrous is bad," but to me it seems that none of you have very much experiance in these areas. There are to many variables for you guys to make these generalizations. These forums are full of helpfull and misleading information. If you don't like what someone has wrote, or if you know that the information is wrong, then ignore it. If you cant figure it out yourself, or from the help of others, then pay a professional to do the job; we will be glad to make it right.
 
markweb said:
Everyone talks all this crap, and I bet less then half of you have a real idea of whats going on. Most of you guys make generalizations that are to broad. "nitrous is good", "nitrous is bad," but to me it seems that none of you have very much experiance in these areas. There are to many variables for you guys to make these generalizations. These forums are full of helpfull and misleading information. If you don't like what someone has wrote, or if you know that the information is wrong, then ignore it. If you cant figure it out yourself, or from the help of others, then pay a professional to do the job; we will be glad to make it right.

Yea your correct,I never used N20 and he has never had a bad rap with it,so its pointless.I say (again) that we should call a truce or if not,I quit no mater wha he says.In the begining it was fun,but now he is taking it seroius so see you guys for good on this thread. :nice:
 
hotmustang331 said:
I know how nitrous power curves are,in that your peak power is USUALLY at whatever RPM you first spray it at....
like these
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/1672/tyler_n2o_dyno.jpg
http://www.swunlimited.net/~ex/N2ODyno.jpg
http://www.corral.net/photopost/data/500/19221rhea10-med.jpg

Now mustangman,yes if you put only a 100 shot then yea it will last a little while,but look a 100K engine is already worn and has lost a lot of compression,
odd if a 100k mod motor has lost alot of compression, how would a 250k mod motor run at all? 100k is just a start for a 4.6L and if maintained properly the compression loss from 30k to 100k is almost nonexistant, my car has 98k on the motor and running BETTER than it did off the lot :bs:

so in a way its a little easier on it
so which is it, easier, or worse to run on an old motor :bang:

me = back up what i say with sources to prove my point.
you = keep telling us about your wacked out mechanical "Facts"

It is a good thing you are typing because It's awefully hard to talk with your foot in your mouth.
 
Joel's98GT said:
me = back up what i say with sources to prove my point.
you = keep telling us about your wacked out mechanical "Facts"

It is a good thing you are typing because It's awefully hard to talk with your foot in your mouth.
LMFAO

O.K. Everyone get off your
soapbox.gif
and help me figure out what I need to do to beat a Mach. All you Mach owners please don't trash me because I respect the Mach, I just want to beat the Mach this kid drives because he doesn't know Jack about Stangs and probably doesn't respect his car's heritage.
 

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Blev said:
LMFAO

O.K. Everyone get off your
soapbox.gif
and help me figure out what I need to do to beat a Mach. All you Mach owners please don't trash me because I respect the Mach, I just want to beat the Mach this kid drives because he doesn't know Jack about Stangs and probably doesn't respect his car's heritage.

with 4.10's and a headswap (stage II heads), and full exhaust, pullies and tune you would be close.

or

spray 150 NX shot on him (USE RACE GAS and a RPM window switch)

in short you need about 290rwhp and a little less wieght than him and you will pull on him. http://www.mach1registry.org/forums/index.php?s=
 

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Joel's98GT said:
with 4.10's and a headswap (stage II heads), and full exhaust, pullies and tune you would be close.

or

spray 150 NX shot on him (USE RACE GAS and a RPM window switch)

What?? 4.10's, P&P heads, full exhaust, pulleys, and tune......he would WALK a Mach!