What's the best choice for upper/lower control arms?

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by No.11, Dec 30, 2009.

  1. only with slicks and hard launch's (in my experiences.

  2. It's really not that hard. We gave you the best advise we could but in the end it's you that will have to pull the trigger and decide what it is you want in your car. you could run a poll but I can pretty much already figure out how that will go. To me if I'm spending cash and putting something in my car it's going to be a quality part but that's not to say the LRS kit isn't and won't work it's just to me basically a slight notch above the stock arms IMHO and stock replacement for the old worn out stock arms. For the street and a total budget build the lRS stuff starts too look good if you have plans different story. Torque boxes don't usually have issues on the street like Tanus it's mostly from hard launches but too much bushing bind isn't going to help imo. Best of luck on what you decide.
  3. Alright bottom line:

    I decided to not be cheap and just spend the extra money for peace of mind knowing the parts on my car are quality pieces. I'm getting the MM lowers and FRPP uppers :D I'll place the order tomorrow, though... or whenever I see how much more credit I have on my card, lol... a few recent expenses haven't gone through, and I'm more than halfway towards the limit lol... I should be ok, but I just want to make sure and calculate the exact amount. It's a resolution I made to take better care of my money. Spend on some good stuff but know how much I spent hahaha!

    My POS car will be a badass Mustang eventually!
  4. IMO, you made a wise choice, & I guarantee you will NOT be dissappointed with the MM parts....
  5. Is that TA setup mainly for hardcore roadracing or is it pactical for a mostly street driven car? I've been having my eye on UPR uppers and lowers...I've heard mixed reviews on UPR's quality so I really don't know what to think. My car is definately a budget build for now.
  6. Btw if anybody is selling some MM LCAs here let me know hehehe
  7. It can be used for both... I have a buddy with an 04 Mach with a full TA setup, & he has been daily driving his car that way for years with no issues. Of cousre there will be more NVH or road noise, but a TA setup will have better ride quality than a 4 link setup.

    Look at it this way, Camaro's & Trans Am's come with a Torque arm/ Panhard bar setup from the factory & they do just fine on the street, strip, & road course. It is a far superior setup to the stock mustang 4 link....
  8. Good news:

    I just made my order a while ago. I'm excited as hell and can't wait to see those parts on my doorstep! Here's what I ordered.

    Item Number Quantity Unit Price
    LRS-2603A 1 39.99

    LRS-2635B 2 34.99

    LRS-3049A 1 26.99

    LRS-6038A-K 1 64.99

    LRS-6068A 1 31.99

    LRS-6068HDW 1 6.99

    LRS-6710A 1 19.99

    M5500A 1 119.99

    MM-MMRLCA1 1 249.99
  9. Does anyone think Ford dealers still carry brand new bolts for UCAs? Or know where I can find some? Part #?
  10. Good point. I'm seriously considering going with a TA setup after reading this thread. With a panhard bar would I have to get rid of my tailpipes? I DO NOT want to get rid of tailpipes on my car....I HATE DUMPS. Are the TA and Panhard bar meant to work together or is it an either/or type setup?

    I'm just wondering if it makes more sense(function vs. cost) to stay with the 4-link setup or go with a TA/panhard setup. Oh, my other concern with the TA is ground clearance. I'm going to have Eibach Pro-springs(1.5" drop).

  11. They might. Ask for bolts for a 1998 GT. They were changed in 1999.

    If not, LRS sells the bolts as well.
  12. As long as your catback is either stock, flowmaster, or dynomax, the tailpipes will be guaranteed to fit. Some other brands will fit, but just might need modification.

    The TA/PHB are meant to, & have to be used in conjunction. They TOTALLY replace the upper control arms.

    A TA/PHB setup is far more costly than a 4 link setup, but is FAR better in every way. Another thing that you MUST have with that setup is a good quality set of full length subframe connectors because that is what the torque arm crossmember bolts up to.

    Ground clearance will not be any different than having the stock dogbone still installed on your differential(which the TA replaces) & the midpipe hangs below the rest of the TA so it shouldn't be an issue...
  13. well depends on how low you go, i modded alot of my hangers and even my sub frame connectors to get everything to sit closer to the car, and IIRC the standard duty torque arm bolts to the car without subframes whereas the heavy duty one bolts to the subframes, but subframes ARE needed in both applications
  14. Good choice! I am running the same parts and like everyone else here with the same set up I am very pleased with it.
    And another reason to go with MM is that suspension stuff can addictive hence if you later on decide to do further mods then you are better off getting everything from one supplier. And MM is as good as it gets, with lots of alternatives depending on how hardcore you wanna be and whether you are going for street, track, auto-x or road racing.

    Just one thing, if you plan on doing the installation yourself I would strongly recommend you getting the MM tool for removal and installation of the bushings in the UCA's.

    This tool really makes it a lot easier - a friend of mine who replaced his uppers before I did mine decided to save those few dollars, and he still goes into a fetal postion sucking his thumb and making strange noises when I ask him how that worked out for him...
  15. I don't think i saw upper axle housing bushings on his list.

    OP, if yout axle bushings are dry rotted, consider replacing those. I wouldn't go poly here. I'd stick with Ford

    Ford Racing M-4050-B - Ford Racing 8.8 in. Axle Installation Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com

    That kit comes with new C-clips and friction mod too, so save those if you ever need them. But you will need the MM tool to press the old bushings out. They are a little PITA to do under the car. I did mine when i took my axle out to paint it
  16. Are the BBK Gripp Heavy Duty Boxed Rear Control Arms any good?
  17. Is the bushing removal tool something common I might be able to rent someplace? I'm not sure if it's something I want to spend on right now if I can just rent it somewhere for less. Or, does anyone local happen to have this tool for loan?

    I'm a little bit confused here...Are the bushings on the UCA itself the same thing as upper axle housing bushings? Will I not need to remove any bushings at all if the bushings I have are in good condition? And do I need the tool for installing bushings at all? I noticed on the LCAs you have to install them.
  18. The bushing install on the LCA is easy. Don't worry about that at all. No tool needed.

    On the UCA, take a look at it. One end has a bushing. The other end is open. The bushing end bolts to the body UCA mount. The open end bolts to the axle. On the axle, is a bushing. If yours are dry rotted or torn, you should replace them. Not needed, but a decent idea. Crawl under and take a peek at the condition.

    Here's an example, your's will look different, but the bushing is pressed into ears on the axle
  19. Thanks! You're awesome!
  20. Mustang5L5 may very well correct me on this one but when I swapped my stock UCAs last year the kit I bought from MM (with the same part number as you listed) included the axel bushings - I believe...

    However, unless your upper control arm axel bushings have been replaced within say four-five years I recommend you to change the bushings anyway.
    The replacement bushings from MM are much better than the original ones as far as fox bodies are concerned.

    Regarding the MM tool, if you cant rent it then buy it - you'll understand why when you are under there doing the swap!