where to run wiring for fan??

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I ran my hole adjacent to the clutch cable (note this isnt a good location if you have a show car and hidden wires).

You can get grommets at parts stores, electronics stores (Radio Shack, etc).

For a fan, I would mount the relay between the power source and the motor - it's up to you on where exactly. If you get power from the positive lug of the solenoid, you can put the relay next to the coil (in that area). Lots of choices.

Good luck.
 
Honestly, I would only use the positive battery terminal or the hot solenoid terminal to power it up (load side of the relay).

I'm there myself on both stangs - I need to install power distribution blocks to allow more crap to be added. :D

Good luck.
 
HISSIN.. I got a question for you. I just put a 5" tach in my car and I hooked the white wire (to light up the tach) I hooked it to the fog light fuse. I took the fuse out cause I didn't want to use the fog's so I crimped a flat male connector on the white wire and stuck it in where the fuse should be. It works but when I turn my high beams on the tach light's turn off as the fog light's would have.


Sorry for the jacking of the thread lol
 
Roland69 said:
HISSIN.. I got a question for you. I just put a 5" tach in my car and I hooked the white wire (to light up the tach) I hooked it to the fog light fuse. I took the fuse out cause I didn't want to use the fog's so I crimped a flat male connector on the white wire and stuck it in where the fuse should be. It works but when I turn my high beams on the tach light's turn off as the fog light's would have.


Sorry for the jacking of the thread lol
Sorry, but what's the question Roland? :p

That's how a stock USA car would work - they kill the fogs when brights are applied. If you want, switch that white wire to fuse 13 (which should be the dimmer fuse. Check your fusebox diagram and/or use your test-light to make sure fuse 13 is the dimmer circuit - I dont know differences in Canadian cars). Then your tach would dim with the rest of the instrument lights.

Alternatively, if you really want to keep using the fog light fuse, you'd have to find a new power source for the fuse and that's more of a pain than it's worth.
 
Roland69 said:
if I pull the fuse for the dimmer and plug the tach into it will the dimmer and tach still light up
Nope, you need the fuse. You would add a fuse-tap (available at parts stores) to the non-source side of the fuse slot. Pull the fuse and turn on the parking lights and test both fuse slots. One is hot and one is dead. Tap into the dead one so your tach has fuse protection. I add a 1 amp fuse inline on my gauge lighting wires (so if my tach wire chafed and shorted, it doesnt take out the dimmer fuse and all my stock gauge lighting).

Good luck.
 
Roland69 said:
do you have a link or a pic of theese fuse taps..and I should run a 1 amp fuse on the wire as well.
Here's the kind I use because I get them cheap.

A better kind is like this.

The latter one is what your local parts store might have.

I think it's always a good idea to fuse any accessory you add, and any wire that you add (which has 12 volts going to an accessory, etc). If everything stays copacetic, you'll never know the fuse is there. But if a short pops up, you'll be glad to have any additional fuse protection.
 
As far as mounting locations of your fan controller setup: Mine is mounted in front of the battery (behind the driver headlight)

I noticed that my controller doesn't have enough heat sink here. I am going to fab up a metal mounting plate and mount my controller to it. The lower heat should extend the life of the electrical components.

On the power block: You can also get distribution blocks from the audio store. You can get them in a few different configurations to suit many needs [1 in / 2 out or 1 in / 4 out, etc.]
 
Steve, is the heat sink necessary or just something you're doing to maximize controller life (you're running Brian's controller, no)?
 
HISSIN50 said:
Steve, is the heat sink necessary or just something you're doing to maximize controller life (you're running Brian's controller, no)?


The controller works great where it is mounted right now. This is just something I want to do to help extend the operating life of the DCC since it lives pretty close to the radiator.