Which Rockers Should I Get?

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by palerider94, Apr 8, 2013.

  1. Just bought a rebuilt 91 302 with aluminum GT40 heads and an E303 cam. Want to get roller rockers for it. Not looking for anything radical car will be a cruiser. More interested in value (good quality not super expensive) that does not require to anything special (ie., like to keep stock length pushrods). Ford Racing recommends 1.6 rollers M-6564-b351 what at $430 is a little pricey. Summit does not carry them but refers to proforms http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66879 Not much of a motor guy so any help or suggestions would be appreciated. For example don't know what self aligning means or mounting types. So any rocker 101 education would be helpful too. thanks
  2. Are the heads set up for an adjustable valve train already? I.E., screw in rocker studs, VS pressed in studs? Almost any 1.6 ratio roller rocker will do. As you have an after market cam already installed, you need to measure for push rods regardless.
  3. My engine is set up with a mild cam and pedestal mount heads so I used these:
    I figured if they were good enough for factory equipment on 93-95 Mustang Cobras, they would be fine on my build.
    They are 1.7 ratio, so you will get more lift at the valve, and the price was great.
  4. When I modified my 93 so long ago, Summit was out of stock on the Crane roller rockers and recommened Dove Performance (they no longer carry them for some reason) but I found a shop that does just as a refernce-I have never delt with this shop:

    I sold the car to my step-son and as far as I know they are still on there and have never had a problem. Probably installed around 1997-98 onto a set of Trickflow heads. It looks like they have sets for pedestal mounts too. The prices on these are very competitive.
  5. The GT40 heads use pedestal mounted rockers. I've got a nice set of the blue anodized FRPP M-6564-B351 rockers on mine in a 1.6:1 ratio. Very nice quality. Not super cheap to buy new (if you can still get them?), but I got them used at a great price.
  6. Not in a hurry so I will probably just keep my eyes ipn for used ones
  7. Just make sure to steer clear of ProForm parts. They may look pretty and the price makes them even more attractive, but I've read "multiple" reports regarding them breaking during operation. They're built to a sub par standard....that is why they're so reasonably priced.
  8. 1.6 ratio is what you want to be sure no piston to valve issues with that cam..for a cruiser just go with stock non roller rockers

    Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
  9. lord_cobra likes this.
  10. Great videos - thanks

    Its a '91 roller block with "GT-40X XTRA PERFORMANCE "TURBO-SWIRL" ALUMINUM CYLINDER HEAD M-6049-X302. I'm assuming these are the original springs that came with the heads. They have pedestal mount.

    I read in some places people use shims to mount rockers - whats the purpose?
  11. The shims are to correct rocker arm to valve geometry. The dry erase marker part in the first video.
  12. You should check at least one spring, and see how it specs out for the cam.
    I post a lot about push rods and springs, because I am on my 3rd Edelbrock Performer RPM cam. I have learned these lessons well, and only want to try and help people not have to do the same thing three times. Oil is another problem too, for old engine design with modern lubricants. That's what killed my last Edelbrock cam. I will NEVER recommend Edelbrock as a good cam grind.
  13. I like the video above. I have to put a new cam in my engine and will be getting an adjustable pushrod this time. My question is how do you know how tight to do the poly lock while checking the pushrod?
  14. That's the valve lash that is mentioned..No "up and down" of the push rod....
  15. Oh ya. That's right.

    Sent from my rotary phone!
  16. I hope you also have a pair of light weight springs, I bent my first adjustable PR checker...Eventually, I bought a degree wheel kit, and those springs worked fine to get a pattern on the top of the valve spring.
  17. Thanks for the heads up. The GT40s spec say they can work with stock pushrods (non hardened) - I'll try and if I bend it I will look at the wheel kit. Seems like there is a lot to putting a set of rockers on. Hope the money saving I think I will be getting from buying a crate become worth it.

    Live and learn
  18. Well, it's more than just replacing the rockers...What you are trying to accomplish, is to realize the gain from a performance camshaft. More lift, longer duration are why you are replacing the rockers to begin with. The push rods are part of how that gain is realized also. There is a method to all the madness...
  19. With the video above concerning valve lash they are talking solid lifters. This is a pretty good video concerning hydraulic lifters: