Discussion in '1974 - 1978 Mustang II Talk & Tech' started by joeythesaint, Jul 13, 2005.

  1. I've had a lifter sticking for a couple of months now. Been busy at work, and a heavy gig schedule; I figured I'd get around to it. I should've put new lifters in, anyway. No biggie, right? $40 in parts and an afternoon; just gotta wait for the weather to clear up. I dumped some engine cleaner into the oil last night.

    The clicking turned into knocking this morning, and the knocking turned into a jigsaw-caliber rattle right before the car died on the freeway, belching blue smoke out the passenger side exhaust.

    Oops. :shrug:

    It does run, it just sounds like hell. EDIT: I'm hoping that nothing's too damaged, but it's not looking good at all; I can see that it's leaking oil right into the headers, and even a knucklehead like me knows that's not good. I drove it about four more miles, in to work, and will flatbed it down to my father-in-law's garage/workshop this weekend. I've got a line on a fresh 5.0 H.O. for a very decent price. I think I'll drop it in (take a day and port the heads), and bolt my dual-quad tunnel ram intake on, just to get running through the summer. In the process, I'll be able to tear into this twelve-letter-word and see what happened and what's salvageable.

    It's supposed to quit raining this afternoon and be nice for the next few weeks. Figures, huh? I'll probably be up and running right as the rain starts again. :bang:
  2. Engine cleaner??

    I use transmission fluid as engine cleaner.
  3. That's a new one on me. This stuff was three bucks. I figured I couldn't lose.

    Sure unstuck that lifter, though. Unstuck it damned near right through the hood!

    Does anyone know if a '98 5.0 H.O. with a serpentine belt will fit in the '78 II without major mods? I appreciate that the cid is the same but it sure looks bigger; maybe it's just all the crap on the front.
  4. That HO 302 motor will fit, the only thing you need to change is the flexplate balance. 50 oz on the HO, 28 oz on the old 302. Any good shop can rebalance the flexplate for you.
  5. Hint: My 332" motor just happens to be for sale.. :D
  6. Just had mine rebalanced, 75 bucks.
  7. You also need to get a steel distributer gear.
  8. You may want to make sure that the heads aren't GT40P's if they are you'll have to swap heads or make a set of headers cuz no one makes anything to fit a II and P heads
  9. I would love to take that off your hands, but I don't have that kind of coin laying around.
  10. My bad. I caught some miscommunication; my buddy installed the '98. The 5.0 he's selling is an '86 5.0 H.O roller cam with 78,000 miles on it. He bought it for the EFI system and the ignition, which he planned to install along with the '98 -- which had no EFI with it -- on his '56 Ford rod. He couldn't get it to work and sold the EFI. He'll give me the motor on a you-haul basis for the balance. I'm swinging down there with my Jeep this weekend.

    Time to visit the 5.0 Forums; they oughta love me in there.

    Thunder, I'd love to buy your 332 but I've gotta go with my pocketbook. ;)

    What's up with the GT40P heads? I thought all 289/ 302 / 5.0 heads had standardized exhaust ports.
  11. I have a 5.0 roller motor in my 77,shouldn't be a problem at all.
  12. The P heads have a different spark plug angle, that usually interferes with most headers when bolted to the heads. I think Accel makes a short spark plug to help solve this issue. The P heads are the best cast iron version of the GT40 head, but the plug angle has made them a little unpopular.

    If the motor you were getting really WAS a 98, it would be an Explorer/Mountaineer motor, which would have the GT40P heads and GT40 cast intakes. Too bad it wasn't a 98.
  13. How much for the 332?

  14. $6500 complete, minus carb and pullies/brackets. MSD box and all.

  15. 98CobraClone and myself tried to put both headers and regular manifolds on his crate motor, which has "P" heads on it. No dice they would bolt up but no allowance for plugs. That's why my sig has them listed.

  16. Back in the day even good oils left deposits. I was warned not to use an engine cleaner in high mileage engines, Deposits build during the engines operation and the engine wears to run with these deposits. Removing these deposits, even partially, could lead to problems.

    Removing some carbon from the rings or valve stems isn't so bad. Dislodging a bit of crud in an oil passage could have serious consequences.
  17. I have to ask: Was it engine cleaner or motor flush?

    The only engine cleaner I've ever used and driven with it still in the oil was ATF...the other's always seem to say to pour it in, idle for 5 minutes, drain oil and add fresh oil.
  18. Questions:

    1.) Are you using the serpentine power steering and alternator rig, with the stock brackets?

    1a.) Are you running headers?

    2.) Is there a plug on the block where I can install a mechanical fuel pump? (Just shelled out for a high-performance mechanical pump; I'd really like to use it.

    3.) How's your fan / radiator clearance?

    - J.
  19. It said to dump it in after an oil change. The knocking did go away, then it came back. Then it really came back. Then it exploded.

    Like I said, whoops.

    Live and -- eventually -- learn.

    Sure was fun while it lasted, though. I really hope the heads aren't FUBAR.

    How've you been, Daryl?
  20. I am using pretty much stock II items, brackets etc.
    The fuel pump I'm using is a mechanical,thru the timing chain cover.
    Basically, the block and heads are 5.0 HO, but the rest is 302 Mustang stuff.
    Fan and radiator clearance is okay, I'm using a lightweight flexfan with seven blades.
    Headers are the old Blackjacks for this car. (boy are they rusty)