Suspension Will Lowering Springs Always Require Caster Camber Plates?

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by GoldenEagle91, Feb 3, 2014.

  1. Hi guys,

    I am writing about a plan I have for the future once I am able to get my rebuilt engine installed and all squared away. I wanted to begin on suspension upgrades down the line in the way of first doing a rear control arm kit as well as a swaybar kit. Then I wanted to do springs but I wasn't quite sure if I would need to do shocks, struts, and caster camber plates all at the same time to offset the drop in ride height. If anyone has any input please feel free to drop some knowledge on me. By the way, the car is a 79 Ghia.

  2. I'm not positive on a '79 but on my 86 it had eibach springs with all stock suspension when I purchased it. All I can say is it drove like crap with a ton of bumpsteer. I installed UPR bumpsteer kit,eibach struts and shocks,mm cc plates and rear controll arms all at the same time and WOW! What a difference!
    Sharad likes this.
  3. you can do the upgrades one or two at a time as you can afford them. my suggestion however would be to start with the caster/camber plates as fox body mustangs are notorious for being tough to properly align to begin with. then go with what ever shocks, springs, etc you like.

    one other suggestion i would make is to buy the parts you want to use, but dont isntall them until you are ready to do the suspension as a whole. for instance lets say you want to upgrade to larger brakes, and you also want five lug wheels. i would start buying all the parts to make that happen, and when you have all the parts, then do everything all at once.
    GoldenEagle91 likes this.
  4. I didn't do caster/cambers or shocks/struts with my lowering springs. I regret not doing it! They may not be "required" for the parts to go in, but in my opinion you should do then when you are doing springs.
    GoldenEagle91 likes this.
  5. Thanks for the good feedback guys. I'd also like to do a manual rack at some point on this thing because on the highway I feel like the steering is a tad lose for my liking. I will probably do as rbohm has suggested and buy each item one at a time so that when I go to change the components I can do them all at the same time without having to go back each time. Thank you guys for the information!
    A5literMan likes this.
  6. if you go this route, start by deciding exactly what you want to do down to the last detail, including all the parts you want/need, and make out a list to follow for parts that you are going to buy, and then stick to that plan and parts list. you are going to be sorely tempted three or four months from now when you are halfway through the parts buying phase to want to change you mind about something, and it will affect parts that you already bought, perhaps because you found a deal on them, and then you have to start over.
  7. Well what I was thinking about was going with is as follows.

    1. UPR chromoly rear control arms
    2. Eibach Sway bar front and rear kit
    3. Flaming River Manual Steering Rack kit 20:1
    4. SR Performance Caster and Camber and lowering Spring kit
    If anyone has any experience with SR performance stuff and its quality please let me know.

    Sharad likes this.
  8. Here are my thoughts.
    I tend to get a little obsessive with the alignment, so i'd do it all at once. Unless you want to get the car aligned a bunch of times. I worry about the alignment because i use expensive tires that can't be rotated so i prefer to get it all done at one time and get it right.
    Buy the parts as you can afford them, then put them on all at once.

    The manual rack is a horrible idea and a complete waste of money. Will do nearly nothing for you except give you big arms from turning it at low speeds. Read through enough posts here and you will find guys going back to power steering, unless it's a drag only car.

    Steering probably feels loose because the caster is off on your alignment. Something that can be remedied by using a good set of CC plates.

    For control arms, i like the MM arms with the 3 piece bushing. Pricey, but don't worry i just saved you $400 on not doing a manual rack.
    Steeda has a set too now that look pretty good.

    Also for the record, any cheap or budget suspension parts that i have used, didn't last or sucked and i ended up doing it twice. Hence i recommend Maximum motorsports.
    A5literMan likes this.
  9. I run eibach pro springs and kyb adjust shocks... 1.5 front 1 rear drop. no after market plates factory shock plates are slide over furthest rivet hole.

    Rides and steers really tight, i also have gone with a 15:1 power steering, iirc 2.25, changed out all the front bushings to poly, i love it , others may not, no inner wheel wear and NO body roll, still running oem 10 hole rims.... I think a mustang should be civilized raw....

    allot of folks going coilover
    79 ghia that cool!
    GoldenEagle91 likes this.
  10. suspension parts- control arms, cc plates, etc- MM, Steeda or Team Z
    Springs- Steeda, H&R, or Ford Mach I or Bullit
    Manual rack- on a street car I wouldn't

    IMO, buy the best parts you can afford the first time and do it right once. Even if it's a little at a time. First suspension modification to do is full length MM subframe connectors.
    jetmech807 and A5literMan like this.
  11. Already has full length subframe connectors. I will keep those companies in mind when I am going through and purchasing parts.
  12. You don't NEED CC-plates to lower the car... but you'll definitely want to have the toe angle zeroed out ASAP!
  13. You're saying once the springs are installed, yes?
  14. same time, once the springs/shocks etc are in the changed geometry would cause all sorts of unpleasant results, tires, balljoints etc... mine has camber as far over as it can. look at the photo and compare the adjustments to how your plate sits, notice the back pushed all the way over in the slots and last rivet hole, some guys will even grind more slot and drill a new rivet hole but unnecessary... also adjust tie rods... are you changing yourself? if so be careful of compressed springs... if not the shop will do adjustments when they install..
    Tuesday, February 4, 2014 74328 AM.jpg
  15. I will be doing the install myself. And I will make sure to be careful when I am doing the job. I will take a look tomorrow when I have some good light again to compare where mine is at versus yours.

    Thank you
  16. Cool, sorry about the 'parenting' when I was a teenager I saw a guy almost lose his head when a spring unloaded, it did mess up his shoulder pretty bad and ricochet off the roof of the garage..... anyway, let me know if you need anymore info..
  17. Not a problem at all. I can always appreciate taking advice from those who have more experience or wisdom than I. Will do, thanks again
  18. By the way, because it was mentioned earlier in the thread to go and check about how my stock plates were sitting up there I went out and took some pictures today and wanted to see if anyone might be able to help explain what is going on. Thanks in advance.

    Attached Files:

  19. Just a heads up that the first picture is on the drivers side and the 2nd is on the passenger side.
  20. holy snow INSIDE the engine bay... thats a huge :nono: :confused: