Will steeper gears put more stress on AOD and a stock 5.0

MrPerfect2

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Jul 23, 2019
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I have 327 factory gears in it . Car has 115k miles ( not sure if AOD was ever rebuilt , but it shifts good and no problems ) engine runs good also . I am considering having 410 Motorsport gears put in ( I know a mustang guy who is said to be very good with gear swaps ) question I have is will it stress the trans or engine too much ? I heard the 410 gears wake up these cars and increase fun factor ( it’s just a daily driver cruiser - not interested in racing )
 
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Noobz347

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3:27 to 4:10 will increase torque to the wheel.

Think about this a little bit...

When you change the gear ratio, the forces will generally be [less] on the engine and trans. [More] on everything downstream of the flywheel or flexplate.

Take a moment to think about the individual components of a drivetrain and how they interact with one another.

Also, keep in mind (because this may be coming next): Power output in unchanged.
 

Gs87GT

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Didn't you ask this in another thread recently?

If I'm remembering correctly, as I stated in that thread, going to a lower gear (higher numerically) will put less stress on components because though better torque manipulation it'll be easier for the trans and engine to get the weight moving.

If you wind up hot rodding arorund with it more after the gear change, yes you can beat stuff up more... but strictly the gear change will put less stress on components for reasons I mentioned.

20 years ago, when I was into working on and modifying these cars, changing gears was the biggest bang-for-your-buck. I suspect, that's still the case.

Go with the 4.10s.. you won't be sorry. Just my .02
 

MrPerfect2

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Thanks ! I appreciate the explanation - btw I am very happy with the flowmaster 44s , it was just the right amount of “ I want a bit louder “ I was looking for - these used with my front cats sound great for what my car is . No drone or popping - and although flowmasters are said not to flow good , I imagine they flow better then OEM mufflers . Glad I learned about exhaust scavenging from you guys as well ( I probably would have done just one muffler not knowing about a balanced system ) next thing I will tackle in springtime is water temps . During the winter when it’s cold here my car runs 170-180 degrees . Summer it runs 225 up to 240 sometimes . I have the OEM fan and shroud and it sucks air thru the fins hard . The radiator is OEM and looks older ( not sure how old ) it appears to flow ( see the video ) I am using 50/50 antifreeze mix . These are my plans - try a tank of 93 octane before I do the timing , for all I know it may be around 18 , lol - ( I heard that could cause it to run hot if set to high and running 87 ) I suspect 14 degrees is good for 87 ) if that does not help then flush the system in spring of antifreeze and run distilled water and water wetter - if temps drop to 225 max , then I will leave it like that . Last step is change radiator .
 

MrPerfect2

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I never got around to changing radiator - I wanted to see how it ran in winter temps - yes I have a aftermarket gauge that I confirmed is accurate with a temp gun readings
 

MrPerfect2

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Does the radiator flow look correct - it Might be clogged in the middle and forcing faster flow up top . Does my process of elimination sound like a good start ?
 

96pushrod

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Thanks ! I appreciate the explanation - btw I am very happy with the flowmaster 44s , it was just the right amount of “ I want a bit louder “ I was looking for - these used with my front cats sound great for what my car is . No drone or popping - and although flowmasters are said not to flow good , I imagine they flow better then OEM mufflers . Glad I learned about exhaust scavenging from you guys as well ( I probably would have done just one muffler not knowing about a balanced system ) next thing I will tackle in springtime is water temps . During the winter when it’s cold here my car runs 170-180 degrees . Summer it runs 225 up to 240 sometimes . I have the OEM fan and shroud and it sucks air thru the fins hard . The radiator is OEM and looks older ( not sure how old ) it appears to flow ( see the video ) I am using 50/50 antifreeze mix . These are my plans - try a tank of 93 octane before I do the timing , for all I know it may be around 18 , lol - ( I heard that could cause it to run hot if set to high and running 87 ) I suspect 14 degrees is good for 87 ) if that does not help then flush the system in spring of antifreeze and run distilled water and water wetter - if temps drop to 225 max , then I will leave it like that . Last step is change radiator .
240 is getting up there temp wise. Usually more timing will actually make the engine run cooler at idle.
 

2000xp8

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Well , I suppose a new OEM radiator is cheap enough and easy to swap out . It would take that variable out of equation too
If I remember correctly, the stock radiator was a single row.
Buy a 3 row.
Nobody ever complains they have too much cooling capacity.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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I will say to stay away from the cheap parts store stuff with the plastic side tanks, spend the money on a aluminum 2 row replacement, a 3 row would be better but for a stock/mild street car the 2 row is very effective even with ac.
 

2000xp8

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If my car is not modified wouldn’t a new OEM work fine ?
I suppose it would. But i'm a gauge watcher.
I like my car to always run within 10 degrees of a 180 degree thermostat.
When I see 240 like mentioned above, that's crap my pants terriotry for me.

The SVE on Lmr is a $199 3 row aluminum with a 260 reviews and 5 star rating.
And if they 7% off is good on it, that's like $185. How much cheap than that is a one row stock replacement?

I'm not saying you should get a Ron Davis (god knows I wish I had one of those), but I see a one row as a wasted chance to bolster your heating and cooling system.
 
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