Brakes Wilwood 5-lug Conversion

Jul 8, 2005
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#21
Car will be primarily street, but will take part in HPDE events as well. I'm not looking for a track monster, just something I can drive everyday reliably, and have some occasional track fun with.

The builder recommended the Wilwood kit for my needs, but said that he's open to other options. He's up front about costs and what is possible within my budget. He builds some pretty nice Mustangs.
 
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Mustang5L5

Car used in adult film "Highway Gangbang-InDaButt"
SN Certified Technician
Feb 18, 2001
28,198
5,317
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Massachusetts
#22
It's your call really. Your car your money.

Definitely more pop factor with the wilwoods, but they really are more of a lightweight drag brake (and not really suited for HDPE) and you will have a harder time sourcing parts for them down the road.

In curious to his downsides to the m -2300-k setup. The setup he's pushing is really geared towards drag cars that want a high performance brake setup but stuff them under 15" and 14" drag wheels
 
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2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
Aug 8, 2003
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#23
The builder recommended the Wilwood kit for my needs, but said that he's open to other options. He's up front about costs and what is possible within my budget. He builds some pretty nice Mustangs.
What exactly does he think your needs are?
I'm kinda dumbfounded at the idea of planning upgrades for a road course, going to 18 inch wheels and replacing 11 inch brakes with 11 inch brakes...

Sounds like one of those guys that just stuck in their ways and he's used them before and/or gets them cheap.
I'm trying not to insult the guy because I don't know him, but can't see anyone buying those brakes for anything other than drag racing.
It's never good when a listing for a set of brakes says "may fit with 14 inch wheels". That's like putting a tire on a gt500 rotor.

My suggestion, read up on some articles on brakes for road racing, most will likely tell you heat is the enemy and you want the most surface contact and the biggest rotor possible to fit behind your wheels.
 

FoxMustangLvr

I love my Pimp
SN Certified Technician
Oct 14, 2012
4,843
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#24
Most people in HDPE and road course racing are running the 94-04 Cobra brakes with upgraded rotors/pads with cooling ducts. Or they upgrade the Cobra based brakes up front to the 14" Brembos.

You should check out this FB page and look up what brakes people are running
79-04 Fox and SN95 Mustangs Road Race & HPDE
 
Jul 8, 2005
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#25
Final Plans have been made with builder. Front: 94-95 spindles, 94-04 Cobra Brakes, Stainless lines, 13" Slotted/Cross-Drilled Powerstop Rotors (I know, they're pointless and I should go blank, but they look pretty!) and Rear: Strange Engineering Brackets, 9" housing ends,Strange 28 spline Axles, 94-04 Cobra Brakes,11.65" Slotted/Drilled Powerstop Rotors, Stainless Lines, 3.73 gears. Of course I'll have the 93 Cobra Master cylinder, Prop Valve and all other odds and ends as well. Should be perfect for what I'm looking to do.

Also talking over possibly grabbing a 347 from him that he is currently building:

Dart Pro-1 190cc heads
Coast High Performance forged crank/hbeams
Mahle Pistons
MSD Pro-billet Distributor
TFS2 cam
Victor 5.0 EFI Intake
Canton/Milodon Oil Pan 7qt
 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
Aug 8, 2003
6,281
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#26
Also talking over possibly grabbing a 347 from him that he is currently building:

Dart Pro-1 190cc heads
Coast High Performance forged crank/hbeams
Mahle Pistons
MSD Pro-billet Distributor
TFS2 cam
Victor 5.0 EFI Intake
Canton/Milodon Oil Pan 7qt
Seems like a mish mosh of parts to me.
High rpm intake
Not sure about the dart heads, I don't know anyone that has run them.
Msd distributer, why?
Custom built engine with a tfs stage 2 cam?

If the block isn't a dart, R302, boss etc. The fancy internal parts mean nothing other than a smaller wallet.
The stock block splits before internals become a factor.
 

88LXSleeper

Active Member
Jan 6, 2016
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#27
My Fox is daily summer driver and have done several track days at Mid Ohio and Nelson Ledges. If going through changing brakes go with bigger fronts to avoid fading from heat on track. I have stock brakes with higher temp pads and shoes and have experienced slight fade at end of run, more so at Mid Ohio due to more turns and braking. If I still tracked it regularly I would add some cooling ducts to fronts. Frame stiffening, panhard bar, lowering springs, and good tires will make a big difference, and seat time. Handling more important on track than HP, with mods done to my Mustang, 115 HP Miata does faster laps than 260 HP Mustang, keep this in mind when doing your mods.
 
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Jul 8, 2005
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#28
Yeah, I'm definitely going with bigger brakes out front. Going with the Cobra setup described above afterall. I have some experience racing in Chumpcar, and am sure that the MR-2 I drove and my buddies V6 swapped Miata would slaughter me at the track. I'm just looking at new engines because mine had 167K on it, and is starting to get a bit tired. Panhard bar and torque arm from MM are still on my list as well. At the moment I have the mods listed in my sig.
 
Jul 8, 2005
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#29
Seems like a mish mosh of parts to me.
High rpm intake
Not sure about the dart heads, I don't know anyone that has run them.
Msd distributer, why?
Custom built engine with a tfs stage 2 cam?

If the block isn't a dart, R302, boss etc. The fancy internal parts mean nothing other than a smaller wallet.
The stock block splits before internals become a factor.
Some of the parts are slightly used and he got them in a trade: Heads, distributor, intake, oil pan. Probably why they are a bit of a mixture. Do you think any of the parts listed would clash with one another causing issues? As for the tfs stage 2, I think he's used it for a few other builds and just seems to like it.
 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
Aug 8, 2003
6,281
688
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#30
What makes your old engine tired? Does it burn any oil or smoke?

Here's how I see it, If I got a great deal, I may buy a bunch of mismatched parts cobbled together (although with a friend with a mustang shop, I know it rarely works out), but it would have to be at the "making me buy it price" leaving me some room for changes that I would still come out ahead.

Any more than say 1/3 of what it would cost built specifically for you just doesn't make sense to me.
It's a risk/reward situation. It may come out great and you love it. But if you don't you will land up spending as much as you could have just built it from the ground up custom for you, maybe even more.
 
Jul 8, 2005
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#31
Car smokes a little, has what appears to be some lifter noise, and the front of the engine leaks a decent amount of oil. Just needs a general refresh.

Yeah, I'm still waiting to see what quote he pulls together for the engine and all the work involved for installation. Off the top of his head he was thinking $4500-$5500 or something like that, but I haven't seen a detailed quote yet.
 

CarMichael Angelo

I don't like your attitude, let me fix that.
SN Certified Technician
Nov 29, 1999
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#32
Ain't that racecar stuff?
Or is this a racecar, I'm old and not going back to look:doh: sorry,
Really? How hard is it to go back and look to see what was previously discussed? he answered the question on the 10th reply,...That meant (starting from yours at 18) you'd only have to look back 7 whole replies...:rolleyes:
I'm thinking "Old" is a three letter substitute for L-A-Z-Y.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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#33
Really? How hard is it to go back and look to see what was previously discussed? he answered the question on the 10th reply,...That meant (starting from yours at 18) you'd only have to look back 7 whole replies...:rolleyes:
I'm thinking "Old" is a three letter substitute for L-A-Z-Y.
Ok, so I had an 'old' (read lazy) day, really don't recall, the thread started with a high dollar brake setup for a summer driver that was recommended by a mechanic, now we have an engine that smokes a little an now he is getting a 347 put together but the mechanic, I'm not sure 89five.o has a plan for this car and he needs to take a step back and examine what HE wants for this car and not get talked into a situation where he has a car that is not what he expected or is not fun to drive. I think if we knew what he wanted to do with the car he can get some advice from the members, like yourself, that have been there, built that and learned from it.
I don't mean ill of the mechanic but he will not be living with it.
 
Jul 8, 2005
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#34
Car is just about done! Still need to get E-brake working properly, an alignment, and perhaps play around with the bias.
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Reddevil91

5 Year Member
Mar 3, 2010
590
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#37
Nice man, I just finished up my swap and I like it so much better. I almost went with that same diff cover but then read someone’s somewhere post that they had trouble with dealing due to bigger gears. Idk what you are running but didn’t seem to have any issues. I just cleaned up mine and all the rear and I like it. Maybe another time I’ll make the diff cover change.
 
Jul 8, 2005
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#38
Thanks. Yeah, I haven't been able to drive it much yet, but It felt nice for the couple of miles I was able to driving around.. Pedal is a lot harder than it was before, so it'll take some getting used to. I didn't notice any Diff cover clearance issues with my newly installed FMS 3.55s. I should be able to really get everything tested out properly once it's aligned and my E-brake is all fixed up.
 

FoxMustangLvr

I love my Pimp
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Oct 14, 2012
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#39
Thanks. Yeah, I haven't been able to drive it much yet, but It felt nice for the couple of miles I was able to driving around.. Pedal is a lot harder than it was before, so it'll take some getting used to. I didn't notice any Diff cover clearance issues with my newly installed FMS 3.55s. I should be able to really get everything tested out properly once it's aligned and my E-brake is all fixed up.
Why is your pedal harder than before? Did you not change out your master cylinder and booster?
 
Jul 8, 2005
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#40
Master cylinder was swapped to a 93 Cobra one. Stock booster.