Wiring in 5 prong relay for fuel pump for a 1990 lx

[Zephyr130]

Weird thought but would canadian cars use different wire colour

Your meter should have a continuity feature that looks like the symbol i've highlighted. If you touch the two leads together, the meter should make an audible sound. If your meter doesn't have this, you can use the Ohmmeter setting (looks like a horseshoe) and touch the leads together You should see the display chang and settle out at zero.

To test continity. Just touch one lead to one wire, and the other lead to the suspected other end. It will either ring or the display will change to 0 if using Ohms

I didn't test continuity but the only wire I have that doesn't match the diagram is light green stripe /dark green and it's My constant power wire, red/black is on with key and and is at the inertia switch as the diagram shows, I haven't checked to the fuel pump but jumping the dark green to the pink and black ran my fuel pump

 

[Mustang5L5]

I think you have your answer then.

That's what i thought it would end up being anyway. Canadian cars were wired the same, but i've found plenty of cases where the wire colors in the EVTM's didn't match what was put on the cars. Doesn't suprise me really

 

[Zephyr130]

I never did end up testing continuity as 3 of 4 wires matched the diagram and testing the dark green and light green striped wire it was my 12v constant and it was the odd one out. Red/black went to the inertia switch and by jumping the dark green/Light green to pink and black ran my fuel pump, with a temporary shoving the wires of the new relay into the old connector led to nothing when the key was turned on so still figuring out what exactly is going on but I know I can get power to the back and hopefully get the car started soon

 

[Zephyr130]

This is the style of relay im wiring in, believe I had everything correct, I followed the colours to the pins you'd directed but like I said no reaction from the pump on key on

 

[Mustang5L5]

Yup. Standard 5-prong relay.

85/86 is your coil. This is what closes the relay. Red/black and tan/green go here. Do you hear the relay physically clicking when you turn the ignition key to on?

If you remove the relay, can you test it with a 9v battery across 85/86. Might need 2 sets of hands to test the relay.


Your constant power at all times goes to pin 30 and 87 is the feed to pump. 87a should not connect to anything.

 

[Zephyr130]

The update to this is the car has no injector pulse so I have a lot to go through now

 

[Mustang5L5]

is this a new development, or was it always like that?

 

[Zephyr130]

is this a new development, or was it always like that?

New to me, i hadn't previously checked because the fuel pump wasn't running, over the past few days I made sure the turbo Still spun free as well as checking that I had spark and a basic checklist of it starting, after trying today I checked for any sort of power or pulse at the Injector to have nothing, so that's now what I'm trying to figure out, have no idea where to start aside from taking apart the intake side and starting to trace wires from the injectors
As it sits the car hasn't ran in 2 years so it makes sense it's having issues but I was told it ran and the wiring was finished and complete so I wasn't expecting any issues like this

 

[Mustang5L5]

Start a different thread if you need help, only because others may now pass over this one thinking it was about a fuel pump relay.

One thing to make sure is that TPS voltage at idle is within the proper 0.5-1.25v range. If it’s pegged to nearly 5v for some reason, the ECU will think you are mashing the gas for “flood clear” mode and it will not fire the injectors.

Also, check the ECU. No injectors is a symptom of bad capacitors or a burned pin 46 trace.

 

[Zephyr130]

Start a different thread if you need help, only because others may now pass over this one thinking it was about a fuel pump relay.

One thing to make sure is that TPS voltage at idle is within the proper 0.5-1.25v range. If it’s pegged to nearly 5v for some reason, the ECU will think you are mashing the gas for “flood clear” mode and it will not fire the injectors.

Also, check the ECU. No injectors is a symptom of bad capacitors or a burned pin 46 trace.

I did start a new thread but I don't believe I've had anyone on it yet, I'll have to check power at the tps and pull the ecu and hope none of the pathways are bad although I don't have much of an idea what I'm looking for