wont idle in gear when its warm

Discussion in 'SN95 V6 Mustang Tech' started by smallz33, Jun 9, 2010.

  1. check engine light is not on.. but the saved codes are p0125 , p0351 , p01132, and p0174..

    i belive i found the air leak to the maf censor or some other censor hose was disconnected... the radiator fan does not turn on unless ac or heat is on so about to change coolant temp censor.. also it only does this bad when its warmed up when its cold it runs fine... but my auto start used to work when i put head gasket back in and start everytime before i drove it... after i drove it i had to push on the gas a little bit for it to start.. and if its too warm i have to push on gas allot.. there isa new thermostat so im thinking maybe a bad 02 censor too .. has anyone had this problem? i also replaced the coil pack with a new one.. it seemed to work until i drove it again.. .. ANY IDEAS?? please help and thank you
  2. I replaced the cooling temp censor, and nothing? fan still wont kick on.. i cant evan get a reading on my gauge that the car is warming up ? It just stays all the way down dosent move .. and i know i had it running for a good fiftteen twenty minutes... Im not sure what to do.. the codes say maybe an 02 censor but the problem is im not sure which one..the one i think it is is the more expensive one too.. so if any one has any ideas on this pleasee help.. I just dumped out like five hundred dollars to get my license and then hundred something more to get my insurance and i will be pist if i got no car to drive .. that would suck.. allot.
  3. so im reading up and thinking this o2 sensor is bad.. that its running lean because it is not working properly.... P0125 Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control

    P0174 System too Lean (Bank 2)

    P1132 O2 Sensor Heater Control Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
  4. I think i may have figured it out.. when my head gasket was broke my buddy was helping me.. jacklass broke off two not one but two intake manifold bolts in to the head on driver side.. not sure what nank that would be but im going to pull it apart and get an extractor.. aint that a ****... its cheaper than an o2 sensor though lmao
  5. I am going out on a limb here. The coolant sensor is reading LOW because there is an air pocket trapped in the cross over. Did you use the air bleed screw to bleed the air from the coolant?

    You are wasting $$ replacing O2 sensors if there is a vaccum leak. Fix the vacuum leaks before doing any more trouble shooting.
  6. I never thought about the air being in the system.. dumb ass me .. but where is this air bleed screw located at? and what would i do to bleed this just turn the screw and turn the car over? Im about to tear it all back apart to get this broken bolts out and replace it first.. im guessing its runnning lean because there is air coming in threw where these screws are broke.. so going to get an extractor and and carefully extract these bolts without getting any metal particles in the engine.. this should hopefully be the reason it is not idling properly but thanks for the coolant problem answer that could be a very big possibility..
  7. You don't see a 3 way hex tee fiting right next to the T-stat housing (between the alternator and EGR valve)? There are 3 smaller hoses coming out of it. There is a bleed screw right on top.

    >>From Ford service CD
    Filling — 3.8L

    CAUTION: Some vehicle cooling systems are filled with Motorcraft Premium Engine Coolant VC-4-A (in Oregon VC-5, in Canada CXC-10) or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M97B44-A (green color). Others are filled with Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant VC-7-A (in Oregon VC-7-B) or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B51-A1 (yellow color). Always fill the cooling system with the same coolant that is present in the system. Do not mix coolant types.

    CAUTION: Engine coolant provides freeze protection, boil protection, cooling efficiency, and corrosion protection to the engine and cooling components. In order to obtain these protections, the engine coolant must be maintained at the correct concentration and fluid level in the degas bottle.

    When adding engine coolant, use a 50/50 mixture of engine coolant and clean, drinkable water.

    To maintain the integrity of the coolant and the cooling system:

    NOTE: The addition of Motorcraft Cooling System Stop Leak Pellets, VC-6, darkens Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant from yellow to golden tan.

    Add Motorcraft Premium Engine Coolant VC-4-A (in Oregon VC-5, in Canada CXC-10) or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M97B44-A (green color), or Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant VC-7-A (in Oregon VC-7-B) or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B51-A1 (yellow color). Use the same coolant that was drained from the cooling system. Do not mix coolant types.
    Do not add/mix orange-colored Motorcraft Speciality Orange Engine Coolant VC-2 or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B44-D. Mixing coolants may degrade the coolant's corrosion protection.
    Do not add alcohol, methanol, or brine, or any engine coolants mixed with alcohol or methanol antifreeze. These can cause engine damage from overheating or freezing.
    Do not mix with recycled coolant unless it meets the requirements of Ford specification ESE-M97B44-A or WSS-M97B51-A1. Not all coolant recycling processes meet these Ford specifications. Use of such coolants can harm the engine and cooling system components.

    Place the heater temperature selector in the maximum heat position.
    CAUTION: On 3.8L engines, the vent plug must be removed before radiator fill or the engine may not fill completely.
    NOTE: It is important to maintain engine coolant concentrate between 40 percent or -24°C (-11°F) and 60 percent or -52°C (-62°F).

    Fill the engine cooling system with 50/50 mixture of water and engine coolant.
    After filling the engine cooling system, add coolant to the vent until full. Install the vent plug.

    Leave the pressure relief cap off and run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature.
    Stop the engine and add the correct engine coolant mixture to the degas bottle/coolant expansion tank until the coolant level is between the COOLANT FILL LEVEL marks.
    Turn the engine off and allow the cooling system to cool. Check the level in the degas bottle/coolant expansion tank, and add a 50/50 mix as needed.
  8. I know that you just replaced the head gasket on the car. When you pulled the head, did you inspect it? One thing I notice was that you said there was radiator fluid in the head. Did you mean on top of the head under the valve cover or did you mean in the piston cylinders? You could have a cracked or broken jacket on the head or a crack somewhere in the head. You had said that the previous owner was replacing things like the water pump gasket. Did he ever tell you if the engine was overheated or was operated while overheating? Like I asked, did you inspect the head before you replaced the head gasket? You could have other issues here. A water leak isn't always a gasket.
  9. yessir i inspected it it semed to be fine .. the coolant was just on top of pistons in the sleeves..it wasnt leaking after i fixed that.. but the problem came in where i broke two intake manifold bolts off in the head.. so now i got a new but used head to put in.. thinking this should fix my air leak problem since i can now screw my intake man. all the way in now.. can anybody get me torque specifications for the head bolts, rocker bolts , and intake manifold bolts by any chance? my local parts store has every haynes manual but the one i need.. and on my air leed valve it seemed to have loc tite on it i believe .. any way i can just use high temp rtv when i do this again? and same with the collant temp sensor?
  10. Why not use Telflon tape on the bleed screw and temperature sensor?

    The post does not state the MY, so I am worry about posting the correct torque specs.