Would LCA relocation brackets eliminate/reduce wheelhop ?

Discussion in '2005 - 2009 Specific Tech' started by red05bullitgt, Oct 20, 2008.

  1. That just sounds like the downfalls of having a Live Rear Axle car. You might be able to rein that in a bit, but I'm not sure you can actually stop that.

    When I hear 'Wheel Hop" I think of the rear wheels bouncing when attempting to accelerate hard from a dead stop or while doing a burnout.

    I have the CHE Adj LCA's and I think they are great, but they did not completely eliminate the 'Wheel Hop' I described. I'm going to be getting the CHE drop brackets soon, in hopes of stopping it.
  2. How many miles are on your car? Rearend "bouncing" over bumps is more likely a result of worn shock absorbers. Or, it could just be characteristic of a car that has little weight over a heavy solid rear axle. Mine doesn't seem to do that though.

    The term wheel hop refers to the wheels rapidly hopping up and down during hard acceleration, it happens from the suspension winding up when the control arms flex and the bushings compress, then "releasing" when a certain point of flex is reached, causing the suspension to unload and break traction. Then, when traction is back it all starts over again. This happens really rappidly, and feels like the car is going to vibrate to pieces.
  3. I have just 9,235 miles on my car. So I can assure you that my shock absorbers are not worn yet lol.

    I think it's just as 69mach1-409 said, in which the bouncing over pavement pumps, is nothing more than just the downfalls of the solid rear axle.

    In the meantime, I spoke with Seth from Brenspeed today. And in his opinion, it appears the soft bushings that Ford uses in their stock lower control arms along with the stamped steel arms themselves, may have something to do with the suspension winding up, when as you said. The control arms flex and the bushings then compress, thus causing the suspension to unload.

    At any rate, Seth recommends trying out Steeda's lower control arms, and although he say's it won't eliminate the rear axle from bouncing/shifting over pavement bumps. That it should at least reduce it.

    So it appears as though I'm going to follow his recommendation, and hopefully the Steeda LCA's, will make a difference. :shrug:
  4. The only real way to reduce bounciness over uneven road surfaces is to install a watts link and lose the panhard bar alltogether. When the rear axle goes over a bump the panhard bar will sway the whole system elliptically upsetting both wheels even on moderate bumps before recentering the axle.

    A watts link will add a center pivot point that eliminates side to side motion of the rear axle and allows for only one wheel to lift off the ground in the event of an offset bump or road imperfection.
  5. Hey Walter, now that's the best advice I've had yet. As your absolutely 100% right on the money, in which everything you've mentioned concerning a Watts link setup. Would definitely be the perfect solution indeed.

    In the meantime, I'll be searching for the best price on Watts links, and will then decide on which brand to select.

    Once again, thanks for all your great advice and feedback.

    - Rocky :cheers:
  6. Fays 2 engineering is where it's all at.

    A major aftermarket manufacturer which will remain unnamed recently released their version which is practically a reverse engineered version of the one I have and significantly more expensive.
  7. Could you be talking about the TechCo !?
  8. Not quite. IF their design is the Saleen design (and that would be for obvious reasons) it uses a differential carrier as the centerpiece.

    I'm not too crazy about that idea.
  9. Being that you mentioned major aftermarket manufacturer. If it's not Saleen, then my guess would be Steeda's Watt Linkage. As their linkage setup, is fairly new, and also claims to have a different design over the competition.

    Anyhow, just my $.02