Would like to thank you all

LAFF

Enough to make my old Nipples hard
Jul 2, 2019
363
330
71
Chillicothe, Missouri
Been following this forum for about 5 months.
I didn't know weather to sell my 1983 Mustang or make it what I wanted.
While thinking about it, I was looking through all the Mustang forums.
I've realized this is the best one.
My wife pasted away in March-----no sympathy please.
I decided to sell her new Explorer as I didn't need it.
When I got the 83 Mustang it only had 25000+ miles on it.
It was traded to me for my Harley. Barb couldn't ride anymore.
What I did was to order the engine 1st. Made me motivated to go the whole way.
I think I have everything ordered, and here now to make the change.
Except headers, wheels and tires.
After I have the engine installed, and everything is good I'll change to 5 stud axles.
This is where am right now.
Any advice going forward is welcome.
 
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Tell us everything you ordered.
The simplest way for you to post pics may be to just use your phone.
Not sure the method on an iPhone, but I bet it's close to the same as android.
Log into the forum and goto this post we are on now (on your phone).
Click attach files.
It will ask for permission to use the camera.
Say yes.
Camera will open.
Take pics
Click post reply.
It's very simple (it's not how I normally do it, but for simplicity for your sake, I tried it that way, took literally about 10 seconds total, start to finish).
 
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Here's some help to get you were you want to go...

Excerpt taken from the High Performance strategies for 5.0 Mustangs.
I limited the excerpt to the Hot Street section since I didn't get the impression that you would be racing the car. I do have additional information in other fun driving areas if you are interested.

noobie-help.png

Far too many people put a dab of this and a dollop of that, and then wonder why the car doesn't run worth beans. Then they think off the shelf computer chips will fix their mismatched parts problem: it won't.

You have to have a plan for what kind of performance you want: Hot street. Street/Strip, Pure strip, Autocross or Road course. Each one requires a different strategy and a different set of components.. Mismatch the components and you’ll have a car that falls flat on its face when you demand performance.

Everyone thinks HP! HP! HP! and thinks that peak HP is what they need. Peak HP is great for a drag strip car when it has the proper gears and tires to get the car up into the high RPM range where it develops that high peak HP near the finish line. On a street car, that strategy will have Honda Accords outrunning you, because you will never get the engine RPMs high enough without running over everything in your path.

Here’ the strategy: Always remember that there are some tradeoffs in any engine combination. Most of us don’t have enough money to “have it all” as if it was possible by some masterful combination of parts and tuning.

The following recommendations are for 5 Speed Manual transmission cars without NO2 or pressurized induction, stock short block.

1.) Hot street, carburetor equipped cars: Broad flat torque curve, high velocity airflow in the intake and heads for best throttle response. Gears suitable for reasonable gas mileage and long road trips without excessive engine RPMs. Stand on the gas pedal from a rolling start to squeeze into that gap in traffic in front of you, and it jumps quick and hard to get you there. Max RPM’s are 5200-5500 RPM for best power. Lopey cams may sound cool, but run poorly in a low RPM street environment.
Use stock cam, stock, GT40 or mildly ported stock heads, Cobra or Explorer/GT40 intake, advanced timing, stock 19 lb injectors, stock fuel pump. If you use GT40/GT40P heads, you will need new valve springs. Use some good 1.6 or 1.7 ratio roller rockers for extra punch. Use a King Cobra clutch, with stock iron or steel billet flywheel. . Drive train: 3:55 gears with soft tread compound tires. Use some Ford Racing unequal length headers, stock 2 1/4” cat pipe and some mufflers that don’t drone or get too much attention from the law enforcement or neighbors.No skinny or grossly undersize tires for the front: remember you still have to stop quickly in traffic. Make sure all the rubber bushings in the front and rear suspensions are in first class shape. Leave the emissions equipment intact and working. Removing or disabling it won’t get you any more HP or performance.
 
Last edited:
Tell us everything you ordered.
The simplest way for you to post pics may be to just use your phone.
Not sure the method on an iPhone, but I bet it's close to the same as android.
Log into the forum and goto this post we are on now (on your phone).
Click attach files.
It will ask for permission to use the camera.
Say yes.
Camera will open.
Take pics
Click post reply.
It's very simple (it's not how I normally do it, but for simplicity for your sake, I tried it that way, took literally about 10 seconds total, start to finish).
Thank you for showing me how to post pictures.
I just realized I don't have any photos of the old 83, but I found one of Barb's 2015 just to see if your instructions would work for me.
Okay-----everything I've ordered

Ordered a 302 from Blueprint
3 core radiator, and fans from LMR
Pulley, and bracket kit
164 --50oz flexplate
timing cover and water pump and bolts

Engine is susposed to be here sometime after the 15th
 
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Here's some help to get you were you want to go...

Excerpt taken from the High Performance strategies for 5.0 Mustangs.
I limited the excerpt to the Hot Street section since I didn't get the impression that you would be racing the car. I do have additional information in other fun driving areas if you are interested.

noobie-help.png

Far too many people put a dab of this and a dollop of that, and then wonder why the car doesn't run worth beans. Then they think off the shelf computer chips will fix their mismatched parts problem: it won't.

You have to have a plan for what kind of performance you want: Hot street. Street/Strip, Pure strip, Autocross or Road course. Each one requires a different strategy and a different set of components.. Mismatch the components and you’ll have a car that falls flat on its face when you demand performance.

Everyone thinks HP! HP! HP! and thinks that peak HP is what they need. Peak HP is great for a drag strip car when it has the proper gears and tires to get the car up into the high RPM range where it develops that high peak HP near the finish line. On a street car, that strategy will have Honda Accords outrunning you, because you will never get the engine RPMs high enough without running over everything in your path.

Here’ the strategy: Always remember that there are some tradeoffs in any engine combination. Most of us don’t have enough money to “have it all” as if it was possible by some masterful combination of parts and tuning.

The following recommendations are for 5 Speed Manual transmission cars without NO2 or pressurized induction, stock short block.

1.) Hot street, carburetor equipped cars: Broad flat torque curve, high velocity airflow in the intake and heads for best throttle response. Gears suitable for reasonable gas mileage and long road trips without excessive engine RPMs. Stand on the gas pedal from a rolling start to squeeze into that gap in traffic in front of you, and it jumps quick and hard to get you there. Max RPM’s are 5200-5500 RPM for best power. Lopey cams may sound cool, but run poorly in a low RPM street environment.
Use stock cam, stock, GT40 or mildly ported stock heads, Cobra or Explorer/GT40 intake, advanced timing, stock 19 lb injectors, stock fuel pump. If you use GT40/GT40P heads, you will need new valve springs. Use some good 1.6 or 1.7 ratio roller rockers for extra punch. Use a King Cobra clutch, with stock iron or steel billet flywheel. . Drive train: 3:55 gears with soft tread compound tires. Use some Ford Racing unequal length headers, stock 2 1/4” cat pipe and some mufflers that don’t drone or get too much attention from the law enforcement or neighbors.No skinny or grossly undersize tires for the front: remember you still have to stop quickly in traffic. Make sure all the rubber bushings in the front and rear suspensions are in first class shape. Leave the emissions equipment intact and working. Removing or disabling it won’t get you any more HP or performance.
Thank you for the information
All I'm going for is just a car I can have some fun with.
no drag strip, just normal everyday driving, and if I wanna pass someone I don't have to get a down hill run to do it.
 
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