WTH? Oil chg @ home on 2010 GT

deepc285

New Member
Mar 6, 2010
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New plastic shroud built for aerodynamics must be removed to gain access to oil filter. Anyone try an oil chg at home yet? How did you remove the shroud held in place by (4) bolts / tabs. They appear to be made of plastic? Smallest hex head I've ever seen. Does anyone know what size socket used ? My buddy, who is a mechanic by trade, was saying that I might be able to just pop off each tab holding it in place. NOT !!! ... don't want to break anything. There is also a torque spec of 1.9 Nm which tells me that they are bolts. THX in advance for any answers !
 
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I took my car in for the first oil change last week (plan on doing my own from here on out) and said oh #@$% to myself when I saw them remove that big plastic piece from under my car.

I thought I was through with that hassle when we sold my wife's H3 (it had a huge steel armoured shield I had to remove everytime I changed the oil).

Oh well....the burn is, I still am getting worse mileage than the '08 I traded in on the 2010 (regardless of any aerodynamic improvements).
 
I've done two oil changes on my 10 GT and other than you have to remove that panel it is a very straight forward easy oil/filter change. The first one I did on my drive on lift without raising the car and the second one on rhino ramps. Good clearance either way.
 
The shroud has no real affect on performance/aerodynamics. I removed mine as an experiment...No fuel consupmtion difference...No time difference at the track...so with that said...It is hanging on the wall with the rest of the stock parts...Just in case....LOL
 
I don't think the purpose is to improve aerodynamics as much as it is there as a splash guard to keep water/rocks/etc from going up there. Other than that I see no need for it, my 05 didn't have it and ran just fine...
 
There are 2 studs towards the back of that shield in the center. It looks like there should be 2 nuts holding it up. Have you guys checked to see if yours were there b/c mine is missing.
 
There are two holes inboard of the actual mounting points. These allow clearance for the steering rack mounting bolts. You're not missing anything.

Incidentally, I found when you screw in the two rear screws (7/32" or 5.5 mm) back into the plastic mounts be sure to push up on the shield at the same time. This prevents the mounts from just spinning around in the K frame when you tighten the screws.