Yellow 95

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by Blaise805, Dec 26, 2013.

  1. I don't think short-term the wrong fluid's going to cause any issue, but I believe merc-dex is the correct fluid (don't think Mercon V existed back in 95 and the owner's manual likely says to use plain old Mercon). Mercon V is full-synth (if I'm not wrong) and it supercedes the older fluids and is supposedly backwards compatible so Ford seems to recommend it for pretty much anything (aside from really old transmissions that take type F). Ford & GM won't license the Mercon or Dexron names for whatever reason so the aftermarket just calls it merc-dex.

    As for the wiring you're only dealing with about 4 wires of consequence.

    You can trace those back to the ECU and check the resistance from the pigtail all the way back to the ECU with a simple multimeter. This diagram helps (a little, since only one of the 4 wires from above is traced to a pin on the ECU, you can find the others using the colors).

    Make sure you're getting nice strong (+) voltage on the red wire, the other wires are all grounds so don't expect to find voltage (this is why checking your grounds is important). I'd suspect the white & yellow guy - the pressure control solenoid. That one could make the trans slip / not go into gear. The torque converter lockup doesn't sound like your problem, and you haven't mentioned shift issues so that's where I'd start. I'd probably run a replacement wire for white/yellow to test all the way from the ECM to the transmission myself.

    Your other option would be to have it towed to a good transmission shop for a diagnosis. Some places will even hook you up just to check it out for free. They can see what the electronics are doing and how the transmission is reacting and tell you if it's bad or if you have an electrical issue. Sometimes it's worth it to let someone else deal with it, especially if it can save you a bunch of hours of laying on your back.
  3. Hi and thanks for that. I removed the entire harness and checked for voltage and continuity all checked out good but there was a frayed wire to the speed sensor I think that's what its called on the rear of the trans. I cleaned all connections and test drove. The test went better than it has gone the whole time so I put the ecm back and figured all was good.I went on another test and I pushed the over drive button and lost everything again auuugh.
  4. So you're definitely onto something (on the brighter side). I'd try jumping a wire from battery positive straight to the red-wire at the transmission. When you pushed the overdrive that would have activated the torque converter lockup. Sounds to me like you're not getting enough juice through the wire to do it. Might be the wiring or the CCRM which is feeding the voltage to that red wire. Should be easy compared to what you've already gone through today. ;)
    Blaise805 likes this.
  5. Hello this thing is driving me nuts. I got ahold od a code reader yesterday and did all the tests. I didn't get any transmission codes and when test driving around the lot the car seemed to be ok. I cant take it on the street yet because it is still in non op and has no plates. I pushed that stupid overdrive button and lost it again is there any way that could short out the system?
  6. Ok so I got the code reader out again and this time it said no signal from the overdrive cm. I squirted some wire dry into the switch and it started shifting again.
  7. Great job pulling the codes while it's acting up. Is this the switch next to the shifter lever? Maybe previous owner spilled a beer down there? Or a different switch? I'd pull it out, clean it, and see if you can buy a replacement.

    I'd say the one thing fairly definite is that you have an electrical problem so at least you didn't pull, ship back, and get a replacement transmission that did the exact same thing. That would REALLY have been frustrating so it could be much worse. Electrical problems are always frustrating so don't let it get you down.

    But yes absolutely hitting the OD button could "short out" the system -- by short out it usually means short to ground so not quite in your case -- more likely revealing a poor connection (corrosion or frayed wire) or a power-feed (+) that can't carry enough current any longer.

    Methodically cleaning, tracing, continuity-checking, and replacing wires is really the ultimate resolution.
  8. Good evening I want to tell you that you have been a great help pushing me in the right direction. I do alot of wrenching on boats and cars that come across however this is my first time dealing with an electronic transmission. The car seems to be working much better at this time and I need to do a couple more adjustments with the linkage. I don't have the right connector from the shift cable to the trans. again thanks and I'll stay here and let you know how this plays out. Cheers Randy.
  9. Congratulations Randy, glad I could help, but of course you did all the hard work. The weather in my part of the world has been so bad this year I haven't gotten anything done in the garage -- so I enjoy the online time helping some brothers out. Best of luck let us know how it goes and enjoy your car.
    Blaise805 likes this.
  10. The weather here has been like summer in January seventies and eighties all month. We are in a severe drought and if it doesn't rain soon we will have no winter as our rainy season usually ends at the end of February. You can send some of that weather this way we will take it. Stay dry.
  11. I thought I had this figured out but its still acting up. This car has a mind of its own. Im going to take it to a transmission shop and get a real scanner on it.
  12. I took the 95 to Trans Pro today for them to have a look. The results are I was sold a bad Transmission. The seller on ebay says there is a 90 day warranty on his units and claims to be a mustang specialty parts yard. He didn't look this unit over very well. There was lots of metal in the pan and the pump was no good.
  13. I'm really sorry to hear that after all the work you did, but I'm glad you have an answer even if it's not a good one. I get used parts all the time too, and every couple of years I end up with a bum part, but it's worked out pretty well on average. Hopefully they'll ship you a good one under warranty, if I was anywhere nearby I'd help you put it in. If it's any consolation is still sounds like you had an electrical issue too, at least you have that under control for the next transmission. :(
  14. Thanks for that it has been a very frustrating project but hopefully it will turn into something good soon.
  15. Update I found another 95 with engine problems but it had a rebuilt transmission I offered the guy five hundred dollars for it and AAA towed it to my new buddy at Trans Pro. I didn't feel like messing with it in the rain so for three hundred bucks he confirmed that it was in fact rebuilt as well as the torque converter the yellow 95 lives and the red 95 has a broken engine and no trans.
  16. I was wondering if it would be a good idea to put the rear axle under my 88 gt, it has the five lug conversion but not the rear disc brakes. Ideas?
  17. I'm glad to hear you're up and running, and you got a parts car of it too!

    These guys kicked around the SN95 axle under a Fox - I guess it may limit your wheel choices a bit so careful measuring would be a good idea.

    This is a good thread too - sounds like it bolts right up, but you'll have to make some other adjustments.
  18. Cool I'll check it out. I have to tune the 95 and get a smog test.