Your .02 on my codes??

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by smac61, Sep 15, 2004.

  1. Been having some slight idle issues...~300 rpm surge, and also when I drive slowly through my neighborhood and then stop to back into my driveway, the surge gets more extreme and it dies. The only other thing I have noticed is at steady rpm in third there is an erratic puffing sound from the mufflers like a miss, but I don't feel anything. So here are the codes and the descriptions from my manual:

    19 - Failure in Electronic Control Assembly (ECA) - problem with internal voltage regulator or RPM to low for EGR check.
    What the heck does this mean?? RPM seemed fine.

    32 - EVP signal voltage or problem with EGR controlling. I can check this one, no problem.

    91 - EGO sensor - signal voltage always indicates "lean" either during engine run self-test ("rich" air/fuel conditions) or during normal operating conditions.
    The O2's have about 12,000 miles on them.

    33 - EGR not opening or seating properly.

    99 - Electronic Control Assembly (ECA) has not learned to control engine idle speed or Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) solenoid - circuit failure. This one came up following the cylinder balance test.

    I can check the EVP and EGR, need help with the 19, 91, and 99 codes.

    THANX! (sorry so long)
  2. Code 19 - Engine off - No Vehicle Power (pins 37 + 57) or bad PCM VPWR Diagnosis. This is a wiring problem that is from a bad ECC power relay, bad connection, bad fuse link or a bad computer. The ECC relay is located on top of the computer under the passenger side kick panel. Pull the connector off any fuel injector and measure the voltage on the red wire: if its 12 volts or better, the ECC relay is OK. If the ECC relay is OK, pull the kick panel off and measure the voltage at pins 37 & 57. If it is 12 volts or more, then the computer's diagnostic firmware has taken a dump and is defective.

    Engine running - Erratic idle during test (reset throttle & retest) - Idle Set Procedures

    Code 32 - Code 32 – EGR voltage below closed limit

    Let’s put on our Inspector Gadget propeller head beanies and think about how this works:
    The EGR sensor is a variable resistor with ground on one leg and Vref (5 volts) on the other. Its’ resistance ranges from 4000 to 5500 Ohms measured between Vref & ground, depending on the sensor. The center connection of the variable resistor is the slider that moves in response to the amount of vacuum applied. The slider has some minimum value of resistance greater than 100 ohms so that the computer always sees a voltage present at its’ input. If the value was 0 ohms, there would be no voltage output. Then the computer would not be able to distinguish between a properly functioning sensor and one that had a broken wire or bad connection. The EGR I have in hand reads 700 Ohms between the slider (EPV) and ground (SIG RTN) at rest with no vacuum applied.

    As vacuum is applied, the voltage on the slider increases (EVP). As the voltage increases, the computer knows the how much the EGR valve is opened and how much exhaust gas is being recirculated. It uses the load table to calculate the amount of exhaust gas required depending on RPM, Mass Air Flow, ACT, ECT & TPS. It then sends a signal to the Electronic Vacuum Regulator to hold, increase or decrease the vacuum being applied to the EGR valve.

    Theory class is over now, let’s spin up our propeller head beanies and get with it… Go Gadget, Go…

    Measure the resistance of the EGR sensor between the two end pins. You should see between 3500 to 5500 Ohms. With the sensor removed, measure the resistance again while pressing on the plunger. You should see the resistance drop from its high value to a low reading of 200-700 ohms depending on the sensor. No resistance readings, or values way out of range, the sensor is bad.
    If the Orange white wire has Vref, (5 volts =/-.25 volt) then you have some wiring problems because the computer isn’t seeing the minimum voltage on the EVR pin. Ohm the wiring back to the computer. Check for resistance between the brown/lt green wire on the EGR sensor and pin 27 on the computer: you should have less than 1 ohm. Repeat the process for the orange/white wire and pin 26. Do it again between the black/white wire and pin 46. In no case should you have more than 1 ohm. Remember that resistance checks are always done with the power off the circuit.

    Voltage and resistance checks are good: Here’s an EGR test procedure I copied from cjones

    to check the EGR valve:
    bring the engine to normal temp.
    connect a vacuum pump to the EGR Valve
    apply 5 in vacuum to the valve.
    if engine stumbled or died then EGR Valve and passage(there is a passageway through the heads and intake) are good.
    if engine did NOT stumble or die then either the EGR Valve is bad and/or the passage is blocked.
    if engine stumbled, connect vacuum gauge to the hose coming off of the EGR Valve
    snap throttle to 2500 RPM’s (remember snap the throttle don't hold it there).
    did the vacuum gauge show about 5 in vacuum?

    if not, check for manifold vacuum at the EGR vacuum valve.
    if you have manifold vacuum then connect vacuum gauge to the EGR valve side of the vacuum valve and snap throttle to 2500 RPM’s.
    should read about 5 in vacuum

    End of cjones's test.

    If the test procedure fails to provide proper vacuum, check vacuum feed lines for cracks & damage. If the vacuum lines are good, check the electrical wiring to the EVR. If the EVR electrical wiring is good, look for 12 volts on the red wire for the EVR. If the 12 volts is good, look for a varying voltage on the dark green wire on the EVR. Case of last resort, replace the EVR and then the computer

    Code 33 - Insufficient EGR flow detected.
    Look for vacuum leaks, cracked vacuum lines. Check to see if you have 5” of vacuum at the EGR vacuum connection at cruse RPM. Look for electrical signal at the vacuum regulator solenoid valve located on the rear of the passenger side wheel well. Using a test light across the electrical connector, it should flicker as the electrical signal flickers. Remember that the computer does not source any power, but provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.

    See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

    Code 41 or 91 - O2 indicates system lean. Look for a vacuum leak or failing O2 sensor.
    The computer sees a lean mixture signal coming from the O2 sensors and tries to compensate by adding more fuel.

    Measuring the O2 sensor voltage at the computer will give you a good idea of how well they are working. The computer pins are 29 (LH O2 with a dark green/pink wire) and 43 (RH O2 with a dark blue/pink wire). Use the ground next to the computer to ground the voltmeter.
    The O2 sensor ground is in the wiring harness for the fuel injection wiring. I grounded mine to one of the intake manifold bolts

    "When the mixture is lean, the exhaust gas has oxygen, about the same amount as the ambient air. So the sensor will generate less than .4 volt. Remember lean = less voltage.

    " When the mixture is rich, there's less oxygen in the exhaust than in the ambient air , so voltage is generated between the two sides of the tip. The voltage is greater than .6 volt. Remember rich = more voltage.

    Here's a tip: the newer the sensor, the more the voltage changes, swinging from as low as 0.1 volt to as much as 0.9 volt. As an oxygen sensor ages, the voltage changes get smaller and slower - the voltage change lags behind the change in exhaust gas oxygen.

    Because the oxygen sensor generates its own voltage, never apply voltage and never measure resistance of the sensor circuit. To measure voltage signals, use an analog voltmeter with a high input impedance, at least 10 megohms. Remember, a digital voltmeter will average a changing voltage."
    Charles O. Probst, Ford fuel Injection & Electronic Engine control

    Code 99 IAB/computer needs to learn to control idle speed (Let idle for 2 minutes, Erase memory and retest). If that doesn't fix it, possible bad wiring, bad connections, or sticking IAB. Remove the IAB and clean it with throttle body cleaner. Clean the IAB electrical connections, look for constant 12 volts on the red wire for the IAB.

    With power off, measure resistance between pin 22 on the computer and the white/lt blue wire on the IAB. Your should see less than 1 Ohm. More than 1 Ohm is a bad connection in the 10 pin connectors or a broken wire.

    If the engine was running when you got codes 19 & 99, erase the KAM by disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes or by removing the test jumper while powered up in diagnostic mode. Then retest for KOEO (engine running) codes.
  3. Dang! Thanks jrichker....looks like I have some work to do. I was limited yesterday due to rain, but I plan to clear the codes and retest. I'm not a big fan of messing around the computer, so I may save that one for last and try to eliminate the other stuff. Thanks again!