I bought the trick flow top end kit and it says it operates at zero valve lash. Do i just tight the rocker nuts down finger tight till the rocker does not go up and down on the valve, then it says to do a 1/2 turn to 3/4 turn after that. Does this sound right?..I know i have to do this process in the firing order but just wanted to double check. Thanks for all the help guys!
zero valve lash? question
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joeyd0730
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Here are soime instruction that rick from rnh performance sent me.
Hydraulic Lifter/Valve Adjustment
1. Remove the valve covers, and pick a cylinder you are going to set the pre-load on. Only do one cylinder at a time.
2. Rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation (clockwise) and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder's intake rocker arm.
3. To adjust, back off the intake rocker arm adjusting nut and remove any tension from the push rod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the push rod seat up against the retaining lock, if you give it time to do so.
4. Twist the intake push rod with your fingers while tightening down the rocker arm. When you feel a slight resistance to the turning of the push rod, you are at "Zero Lash". Turn the adjusting nut down one half to three-quarters of a turn from that point for street applications. Use 1/8 to 1/4 turn for race a pplications. Lock the adjuster into position. The intake is now adjusted properly.
5. Continue to turn the engine, watching that same intake valve/rocker you just set. It will go to full open and then begin to close. When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. Loosen the exhaust rocker arm and follow the same procedure described before in steps 3 and 4 to adjust this rocker arm.
6. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, and you can move on to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again.
Hydraulic Lifter/Valve Adjustment
1. Remove the valve covers, and pick a cylinder you are going to set the pre-load on. Only do one cylinder at a time.
2. Rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation (clockwise) and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder's intake rocker arm.
3. To adjust, back off the intake rocker arm adjusting nut and remove any tension from the push rod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the push rod seat up against the retaining lock, if you give it time to do so.
4. Twist the intake push rod with your fingers while tightening down the rocker arm. When you feel a slight resistance to the turning of the push rod, you are at "Zero Lash". Turn the adjusting nut down one half to three-quarters of a turn from that point for street applications. Use 1/8 to 1/4 turn for race a pplications. Lock the adjuster into position. The intake is now adjusted properly.
5. Continue to turn the engine, watching that same intake valve/rocker you just set. It will go to full open and then begin to close. When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. Loosen the exhaust rocker arm and follow the same procedure described before in steps 3 and 4 to adjust this rocker arm.
6. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, and you can move on to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again.
TenorPlayinGuy
Founding Member
Make sure you get the directions for the stud mounted rockers. Zero lash on this motor is the same for any other Windsor hydraulic motor. The Hydraulic lifter gives when it needs to, therefore there is ZERO lash in the valvetrain.
I believe it is finger tight until you can't spin the pushrod anymore and then a Half turn then lock it. Be sure to use a slight amount of blue or green Threadlock as well. Mine came loose after about 500-1k miles
I believe it is finger tight until you can't spin the pushrod anymore and then a Half turn then lock it. Be sure to use a slight amount of blue or green Threadlock as well. Mine came loose after about 500-1k miles
You got it right, just make sure you do the tightening procedure when the lifter is on the base circle of the cam (no lift portion of the cam lobe).
www.flowtechinduction.com has the same instructions above in there tech section
What I did, in short, is twist the pushrods until I felt some resistance/friction and that told me there is no up and down play in the pushrod between the lifter and rocker. Then I turned it 1/2 to 5/8 turns. After you turn the big nut, then lock it down on the inside of the nut with an allen wrench.
These are for stud mounted rockers, not pedestal.
It never cam lose on me, even 25,000 miles later....
www.flowtechinduction.com has the same instructions above in there tech section
What I did, in short, is twist the pushrods until I felt some resistance/friction and that told me there is no up and down play in the pushrod between the lifter and rocker. Then I turned it 1/2 to 5/8 turns. After you turn the big nut, then lock it down on the inside of the nut with an allen wrench.
These are for stud mounted rockers, not pedestal.
It never cam lose on me, even 25,000 miles later....
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