Check the ground wire that's bolted to the back of the left (drivers side) head and goes to the fire wall.
Does the alternator charge sufficiently at idle? Needs 13.5 volts or close to at idle.

Do you hear a whistle with the engine running?

Im ready to see it. I kind of know how you feel about wanting to own a Mustang.

Edelbrock still makes water pumps and they are still pricey but like WhiteCobra95 my experience with them has been really good. Still running the one I bought for the T-Bird over 25 years ago.


I have a Motorcraft on the Coupe and I have had zero issues so I would probably just buy another one.

Could this cause an issue with the rpm guage? I have the stock and an auto gage. The stock will bounce around with a blinker on or heat on. But it's not consistent

WhiteCobra95 said:

Does Edelbrock still make a Fox Body water pump? I used to run their pumps on my 460s back in '90s and they were really good quality at that time.

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Lmr looks to have foxbody Motorcraft water pumps for $60.
I see no reason to use any other (when it comes to 86-93)

Alrighty. Fired it up today, and it idled well. The vacuum leak I have referenced coming from the lower intake is still there though.. might just need a new intake, or the heads were machined prior to me getting ahold of this engine. It idled really well, and fired up right away, so I must have fixed the timing because usually it takes way more effort. I didn’t test much though because we have to pull the transmission back out as it won’t shift into reverse. Feels like there isn’t even a reverse gear present, but we’ll figure that out tomorrow. Valve covers are not sealing right either and I think that’s because the studs I installed aren’t meant for aluminum valve covers, so I’m picking up some new ones this weekend to fix that. I’ll keep everyone posted on how it goes once we get the transmission out.

Only question I have is with regards “Low pressure adjustable FPR goes away, running stock Miata fuel pump for EFI motor”.

You do know that the Fird WCU is expecting 39 pig at the injectors and a stock Miata fuel pump delivers more than that.

AeroCoupe said:

My post was not directed at you just a general statement of what most of us do works so they way the guy from TFS described it is just uncommon. My biggest issue with his statement is how do you get the lifters dry if you are swapping rockers on an already ran motor? I am not pulling the intake, removing the lifters (some require the cylinder heads to be removed to get them out), drying them out, reinstalling them, and then adjusting the preload on my new rockers.

Lots of ways to approach doing things and hopefully this works for you as it's always nice to have more tools in the tool bag than you need vs. not having enough.

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Yea, I got new lifters when I bought the new cam, so for me, it's easy to have them dry. Also, since my engine is on an engine stand and I'm slowly assembling it, the intake is already off so again, that approach works best for me and clearest to understand.

Now, while I'm waiting for the pushrods to come, I need to tackle drilling the ACT hole in the GT40 intake and cleaning. Will post more as I go. Thanks! Julian

AeroCoupe said:

it's always nice to have more tools in the tool bag than you need

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But not able to find the bag

I'm swapping intakes. I don't like the Trick Flow.

How come the engine needs to be opened up.

Yeah, it feels like they are welded together. About to get back at it in a few. Still early here in Hawaii.

An O'Reilly's reman would work fine since that one's ost likely a reman from O'Reilly's as indicated by the sticker on the casing. O'Reilly's sells Bestest.

If you need more power, you could upgrade to a 3G alternator. But, as I've found in my car, you'll probably be forced into using a serpentine belt of some sort. I'm using a serpentine as I would a V-belt. The extra surface area of the serpentine belt helps eliminate belt squeal that the V-belt was doing. It just didn't have enough surface area and/or grip on the pulley for the new alternator.

Swapping to a 3G will also require some minor wiring changes and basically eliminating the regulator. This article helps explain:


Or if you want to look, I have a thread in the II section for when I did this. It's pretty easy really.....

My post was not directed at you just a general statement of what most of us do works so they way the guy from TFS described it is just uncommon. My biggest issue with his statement is how do you get the lifters dry if you are swapping rockers on an already ran motor? I am not pulling the intake, removing the lifters (some require the cylinder heads to be removed to get them out), drying them out, reinstalling them, and then adjusting the preload on my new rockers.

Lots of ways to approach doing things and hopefully this works for you as it's always nice to have more tools in the tool bag than you need vs. not having enough.

I am gonna try some heat today

limp said:

OH the horror.... How did we survive....... LOL

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Those were the days. No cell phones. No cordless phones. No credit / debit cards. Only 4 channels on TV. News was news, mustang magazines came monthly, and JC Whitney was the part king.

Tomcat6700 said:

Howdy all.I am new and I'm getting my first mustang Thursday.Car has 14k original miles.This thing looks like new and I'm super excited.Oh,it's a 2001 gt the guy I'm buying it from got it from the original owner who supposedly worked with the svt team.My first mustang,I've had numerous trans ams(84,and 86 GTA)but I always wanted a mustang.Well I just wanted to say hello and I will post some pictures soon. Pony power

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Welcome!

General karthief said:

With less stress

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Do you remember what the computer age promised?? NO MORE PAPERWORK.... LOL..