Steeda 93-001 car

Unfortunately not much left of the stock Steeda parts. This car was setup as a drag car by the first owner (idk why ) so entire driveline, suspension and interior is swapped. At some point all steeda parts were sold or lost.
Currently it has a fresh rebuilt 351w with T5, full 3" exhaust, built rear end, aeromotive fuel tank and pump running to the carb. All black interior, original gray interior is gone. All suspension is gone, no steeda body kit anymore besides the wing.

I Hape alot of nice parts for it already so she will look great again and maybe at some point I will return it back to original as possible or let the next owner do that.
Current plans is the swap all suspension to what I have which is QA1 coilovers, 13" brakes and 18" wheels. Keep interior stock except for dakota digital cluster since none of the stock gauges work for being carbed.
Will get a new pain job and put all Steeda decals back on after.

I'll post as things happen
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Fuel Fuel line routing question..

Funny, as I found nothing about this on the internet or on any of the suppliers video's.. While there was plenty of info about re routing the brake line and actual kits to do it with in this same area due to the addition of the right side exhaust pipe..... Based on what I am encountering I would of thought that there would be alot of youtube fixes??
Thanks for the help and pics on here everyone....

Engine Cranks but still doesn’t start. Ran through the checklist and still doesn’t start.

Did you ever get a code [11] or [111]?
No. No Code 11. The EGR stuff is not installed and the port on the manifold is blocked. I will never have a Code 11, unfortunately.

The last time I pulled codes, it was on a sub-50 degree day and I got: 21, 22, 31, 67, 81, 82, 85 and 84.

The 21 and 22 are sensors out of range because of the cold and not testing with a warmed-up engine.
The 67 is because the Neutral Pressure Switch (clutch pedal) circuit is not connected. Once running, I can remedy that.
The rest are because of the EGR system being disabled. I'm told that these codes will simply disable those functions in the computer and are otherwise inconsequential.

Engine Cranks but still doesn’t start. Ran through the checklist and still doesn’t start.

That's not nice :nono:
Start over, you missed something, 180* out of timing or something, that thing should run
Lol. I'm sorry. That was frustration talking.
I have literally moved the distributor all over the place.


Sounds like you have the big three and it should start
Do a fuel quality test and make sure the gas is volatile as hell and will blow up a BBQ if used as lighter fluid
Did that checklist have a noid light test
I would perform that noid test on more than one injector
I would also manually fire a few injectors to verify the fuel pressure drops as I did so
Playing with my buddies MSD the other day on his 69 Camaro, I showed him how to rough time one
Set your motor to 10 BTDC on the crank, turn the key on and rotste the distributor back and forth making it spark a few times
Determine where you think the spark occurred and lock the distributor down right there
Maybe try that
We all have checklists, one of mine is a good visual inspection
Looks like yours has never ran before? it is so clean reddy351?
You get 2 spark testers on the car for the next try, one at a plug and one on the coil wire
I agree. Damn EEC-IV system.
The car was driving with the 2.3T in February. The gas is still really good. (Sh*t's got some KICK!)
I did the noid test on the 5 injectors I could reach without removing the upper intake.
Use a 9v battery to do "fire" the injector?
It has never ran before.
I did move the spark tester from the coil to the spark plug. Are you saying to do both at the same time?

Sub frame connectors

As far as suspension or chassis, I'd go with either Stifflers or Maximum Motorsports (and personally have both for my car). My SFC's are the MM full length powdercoated units and they are excellent with great install instructions. I've ordered thousands of dollars in parts from www.lmr.com and they are awesome with fantastic customer service, I'd highly recommend them.

MM set

Stifflers Set

Optional but I would on a vert.
Thanks. I ended buying the stifflers SFC. Cheaper than MMs. Can the web brace kit be added later on if I feel I need it?

‘89 LX 5.0 convertible mods

Global West on both of my Foxes. I like how they install next to the stock subrames so I did not loose any ground clearance as both my cars are fairly low.


The seat supports are a must in my opinion no matter what brand you go with.
Thanks for your input

WTB/Trade 1985/1986 driver side tail light

I already have an original right side assembly that I’ve freshened up, (and got fairly cheap) so while I’m really in no hurry, I’m hoping another original comes my way.
  • Ah yes, I see.  I see.
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2005 Alternator issues

I have a 2005 mustang and a few months back the battery was boiling, and the light bulbs would blow after an hour of use. Now the battery is fine but the radio keeps shutting itself off and then i lose all power to my gauges, speedometer, rpms, fuel. They will be off for about a minute, then turn back on for a minute. I tested the alternator and i was getting 14.5v but then it would randomly jump up to like 19.5v and thats when the radio would shut off. So is this a voltage regulator issue? If so is the regulator inside the alternator or can i just buy a new regulator and pop it on the outside?

Sub frame connectors

Global West on both of my Foxes. I like how they install next to the stock subrames so I did not loose any ground clearance as both my cars are fairly low.


The seat supports are a must in my opinion no matter what brand you go with. Kenny Brown also makes one hell of a subframe connector system.

‘89 LX 5.0 convertible mods

Global West on both of my Foxes. I like how they install next to the stock subrames so I did not loose any ground clearance as both my cars are fairly low.


The seat supports are a must in my opinion no matter what brand you go with.

Sub frame connectors

As far as suspension or chassis, I'd go with either Stifflers or Maximum Motorsports (and personally have both for my car). My SFC's are the MM full length powdercoated units and they are excellent with great install instructions. I've ordered thousands of dollars in parts from www.lmr.com and they are awesome with fantastic customer service, I'd highly recommend them.

MM set

Stifflers Set

Optional but I would on a vert.

Engine Cranks but still doesn’t start. Ran through the checklist and still doesn’t start.

Sounds like you have the big three and it should start
Do a fuel quality test and make sure the gas is volatile as hell and will blow up a BBQ if used as lighter fluid
Did that checklist have a noid light test
I would perform that noid test on more than one injector
I would also manually fire a few injectors to verify the fuel pressure drops as I did so
Playing with my buddies MSD the other day on his 69 Camaro, I showed him how to rough time one
Set your motor to 10 BTDC on the crank, turn the key on and rotste the distributor back and forth making it spark a few times
Determine where you think the spark occurred and lock the distributor down right there
Maybe try that
We all have checklists, one of mine is a good visual inspection
Looks like yours has never ran before? it is so clean reddy351?
You get 2 spark testers on the car for the next try, one at a plug and one on the coil wire
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351 Cleveland swapped MII

If I can rotate the steering rack towards the firewall. This changes the shaft angle just enough to clear the header. I tested this theory and works perfectly. I’m just not sure of the practicality of this option in actual practice.

Another option would be if there is a steering rack that has the shaft in a slightly different location. One inch farther towards the drivers side would do it. Or if there is a rack that the shaft comes out at a different angle. Slightly more down or slightly more towards drivers side would clear.

The irony to this is, me moving the engine 1 1/4” towards the drivers side to center it, created this problem. So here we are. Things are snowballing quickly.
Exhaust is a big problem on this cars... even with a 302 over axle pipes in 2.5 inch are barley possible.

Anyway, here some thoughts:
I installed a fox steering rack (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=30774&cc=1140297&jsn=10552) and it looks to me, that the steering shaft is much shorter than yours. I also used a borgeson u-joint with a double DD end and a splined end that fits the fox steering rack. I than cut and grind the OEM steering shaft down to the double DD. The Fox steering rack is much lighter (alu housing) and has a quick ratio, which feels great with a low pressure pump (around 70-75 bar). I will post some pictures if i find them in short time in my build thread.
Beside that: could you move the engine back this 1 1/4'' regarding passenger side exhaust clearance?!
What an awesome community!

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