Brake question

That answer is they are not. Only the rear brakes are reduced in pressure. The line going into the combination valve is used by the valve if the front brake pressure is lower than the rear brake pressure. The shuttle valve will then move and put full brake pressure to the rear brakes. This was in case of a leak or issue with the front brake pressure. There are baffles in the MC reservoir that will keep fluid on rear brakes if the fronts develop a leak.
I can't tell you how much I appreciate your explanation. TY

Brake question

That answer is they are not. Only the rear brakes are reduced in pressure. The line going into the combination valve is used by the valve if the front brake pressure is lower than the rear brake pressure. The shuttle valve will then move and put full brake pressure to the rear brakes. This was in case of a leak or issue with the front brake pressure. There are baffles in the MC reservoir that will keep fluid on rear brakes if the fronts develop a leak.

Engine Prw rockers, trick flow cam, gt40 heads

So to me it appears you set the lash just like an adjustable roller rocker only you are using the valve lash adjuster on the push rod rather than the stud mount nut on an adjustable roller rocker. Their installation instructions are here but lack the detail on when you adjust each rocker.


I have Scorpion rockers and used this procedure:


I think if you just take the part out of the Scorpion instructions on where the rocker needs to be when adjusting the intake and exhaust valves you should be good.
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2000 GT: More Cobra stuff

You don't drive a German sports car. I know you wear an ascot though... Admit it. :fuss:
Ahhhhh........NO. I DON'T WEAR AN ASSCOT didn't know what they were.
I do have a respect for the KroutCars but I don't want my mustang to resemble one. Some of the greatest Coach builders were German or Italian.
What do you know?? You drive a Cadillac and a Burban. Classic 'Old Guy' cars :loser:

Engine Does anyone elses engine cough?

I got the surging all fixed up, timing, idle adjustment tps and a vacuum leak. At start up/warm up it idles up higher than I think it needs(2k rpm) but settles down and runs good. Every once in a while, for lack of a better word, it coughs. It kind of cuts out, there is a huge sucking nose from the intake, then it just keeps going. It's very quick. It has done it under idle, under power, after warmup and after startup. Not often, mabe once a trip and not every start/run cycle. I thought the high idle warmup and the cough and the desire for it to idle high (1krpm) at proper timing anyway may be symptoms of a chip/tune. I took a look and I have a sealed A9P ECC. I read a lot of posts and I think my take away was that it does not matter much, but
....would a A9L have a lower idle warmup (add less timing)?
Would a mild cam cause a high idle? It's a big unknown as the motor is a 95 block that was rebuilt and transplanted but I got it from the second owner since then so information is sparse. Trying to Sherlock my way thru it.

Engine At the end of my sanity. 92 GT on jack stands for the last 11 years - NO START

Missed this one earlier. I've set it the rudimentary way with a straw, then with a TDC tool, then finally with the valve cover off when it still wouldn't turn over. I have not as of yet tried starting fluid. It's only been a few days since I got the tank back up after being cleaned out.
The problem with the straw is it will come up on the wrong stroke also...My recommendation is not the easiest way to tell but where your at with this I felt you need to absolutely make sure before moving on to the next..
The reason for some starter fluid ( be careful with it) is to see if it pops.. Then that tells us you are getting no fuel...
What an awesome community!

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