Drive train sourcing

You can also check out MPS Auto Salvage in Georgia. They used to sell 5.0 drivetrain conversions (I'm not sure if they still do). I've purchased many parts from MPS in the past. It's been a while since I've dealt with them, but I was always pleased with the parts and customer service.

They have a website and an Ebay store. www.mpsautosalvage.com

The Ebay store seems to be more current than the website.

I'm building a 1993 Calypso Mustang 2.3L into an autocross car. I know you're looking for a V8 conversion, but I've found some interesting mods that allow you to get a lot of power out of a 2.3L.

HELP!! A4LD in 93 Mustang slips badly in reverse when warm

HELP!! I have a 93 Mustang LX 2.3L auto with 85k. I installed a TransGo shift kit to the letter, according to the instructions. While it solved the stalling when put in gear problem, now it's very soft and slow going into reverse when cold. Once warm, I can't feel it go into reverse at all, but apparently it does shift since it moves back when I apply throttle, but it slips a lot, requiring me to rev it more than I feel comfortable. I've started parking where I can roll backward or drive straight forward. Before I had the stalling problem, it shifted into reverse very firmly. A bit too firmly, in fact. I called TransGo tech support, but they had no answer. The tech guy suggested changing the TransGo spring on the reverse servo back to the original spring to see if that would help. Of course, that would require draining all the fluid and dropping the pan again, which I really don't want to do without knowing for sure that is the problem. In addition, the Mustang is my only working car right now because my other vehicle has developed a severe oil leak, to the tune of over a quart of oil when I take my wife to work, a 12-mile round trip. I believe it's the timing cover gasket, which is a lot of work to change. Btw, it doesn't slip at all in any forward gears. Any ideas?

Drive train sourcing

Lots of good info here:


I would look for a complete Explorer 5.0 but they are getting harder to find.

If you do not have a T5 and cannot find one the just move on to a Tremec TKX.

Drive train sourcing

My father and I bought a 4 cylinder 92 calypso LX with 14k original miles back in 2022.

It’s a car we had planned on coyote swapping together but four days after his birthday in August he passed.

Alone I am not able to afford the necessary drive train components to complete our project as planned so until I can one day afford the do the project right I am hoping to swap in an original 5.0 to hold down the fort until I can afford to do it right.

I am wondering where I should look to get all the necessary parts at a good price, and that hopefully aren’t thrashed and abused?

Suspension I am pretty sure needs to come from an Sn95/new edge

5.0s from either generation mustang that had a 5.0 in it are usually more expensive and run pretty hard. I was thinking Lincoln town car or an explorer.

I’m not sure what cars the T5 was in besides the mustang.

Any tips would be appreciated

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Interior and Upholstery 2011 GT Passenger Window issue... weird

The passenger window will not operate from the switch or from the drivers master switch. The auto up/down works when the vehicle is off and the door is opened or closed but not when the vehicle is running. Fuses test ok, power at the fuse leg is <12v (11.xx)

Assuming the motor works if the auto up/down is happening, but can't find this gremlin and before i start throwing parts at it, I figured that i'd see if anyone else had a similar problem. Btw, the only fuse i can find for the passenger window is #29 (engine compartment) and #34 (driver) and have tested them both and swapped them with the same result. Haynes doesn't reference a relay that i can find and the manual shows electrical diagram for fuses for 2007 that don't match the vehicle even though it says 2005-2014.

Also, switches light up, confirmed power to the switches, and the switches have continuity in the up/down position on driver and passenger so the 5A fuse at the smart junction box must be good as well. I'm sure its something i'm overlooking and no there is no passenger window lockout near the Drivers master switch.

Any suggestions are welcomed.

Idle issue when hot

Not completely. It has a newer Motorcraft alternator. Oem
With heat and head lights on it will drop it
These are not answers that help, the volts will very according to RPMs normally, need to get familiar with diagnostic tools and terms, beg or borrow a volt/olm meter, read voltage at idle, nothing on, and then with blower, lights and wipers on, then say 1800 RPMs, and battery voltage with engine/key off. I have to write things down cause my memory bank is mostly full of useless crap that takes up too much space.
Also need to monitor fuel pressure to see if/what changes when it starts to act up.
We can point you in the right direction, a good start would be a repair manual or better yet an assembly/repair manual by Ford, ebay has some.
Some helpful info can be found in on the tech main page:
There is some info on the 3g alternator upgrade in there too.

Electrical Use a 94 engine with 89 GT wiring and A9L ECU in non-Ford chassis?

Perhaps, but it's not something that's even mentioned in the Monster swap manual (just re-read all the fuel related instructions) so I'm going to go with "close enough for my :poo:box" :cool: The FPR I have in the car was for a carb'd engine, so 6psi wasn't going to help me anyhow :) Worst case, I am over driving the injectors and running rich.. and I can add a FPR later. But shouldn't the A9L (with it's O2's) adjust fuel trim if it is seeing richness?

I'll toss it to the V8 guys on FB and see what they think (including Martin who wrote the book, literally). Thanks for the tip!
Only question I have is with regards “Low pressure adjustable FPR goes away, running stock Miata fuel pump for EFI motor”.

You do know that the Fird WCU is expecting 39 pig at the injectors and a stock Miata fuel pump delivers more than that.
wasn't thinking when I replied.. I'm using the factory SN95 FPR, so why would I have issues? It's a return style system (95 Miata chassis)
What an awesome community!

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