5 Lug Conversion - StangNet - Promoting the Legend of the Ford Mustang

FOX BODY MUSTANG 5-LUG CONVERSION (cont.)
THROUGH THE INSTALLATION OF SN95 FRONT SPINDLES
By: Sean FitzPatrick
May 17, 2000

Disassembly

Begin by loosening all lug nuts prior to raising the vehicle. Raise and safely support the vehicle with jack stands. The jack stands should be positioned so that the suspension components hang free. You will want the rear end to hang down to ease the removal and reinstallation of the differential cover (otherwise the rear sway bar can be a hindrance). You will want the front control arms to hang down free so you can manipulate it with a floor jack during the removal and installation of the spindle(s).

Rear

Once the vehicle is safely supported on jack stands and all 4 of the wheels have been removed start by removing both brake drums (ensure that the parking brake is off). Drain the rear differential fluid by loosening (not fully removing) all of the cover bolts and pull the lower portion of the cover away to allow the fluid to drain out the bottom. Once empty remove the bolts and remove the cover. With the transmission in neutral rotate the rear differential until you see the small Pinion Rod Retaining Bolt. This bolt runs sideways into the differential. Remove this bolt and then slide out the Pinion Rod (placing the car in Park or in gear will allow you to remove this bolt without the differential rotating). Now you can push the axles inwards allowing you to remove the C-Clip retainers. With the C-Clips removed the axles will slide right out. Be careful not to damage the axles bearings or seals when removing the axles.

Front

Start with the front by disconnecting the flexible brake line from the caliper by removing the Banjo Bolt completely from the brake line. Have a cup or rag ready to catch the brake fluid (brake fluid will destroy paint - Be Careful!). Remove the two bolts holding the caliper to the spindle and remove the caliper. Remove the dust cap from the rotor to allow access to the bearing retaining nut. Remove the cotter pin on the crown cap and then remove the cap and nut. Pull the rotor off of the spindle with the bearings.
Place a floor jack under the lower control arm and raise the jack just under the control arm so it just starts to compress the spring. Loosen the two bolts that secure the strut to the spindle.
On the tie rod end, remove the cotter pin and crown nut and separate the tie rod end from the spindle.
On the lower control arm ball joint, remove the cotter pin and crown nut and separate the spindle from the lower control arm (be sure the floor jack has the lower control arm supported to keep the spring from unseating and causing damage or injury!).
Now you can remove the two screws holding the spindle onto the strut and remove the spindle completely.
Repeat for opposite side.

Reassembly

Rear

Slide the new axles into the housing tubes being careful not to damage the bearings or seals. Push the axles in as far as they will go and seat them with the spider gears in the differential. Replace the C-Clips on the axle ends and push the axles back outwards to lock them into place. Reinstall the Pinion Rod. Apply thread locker to the Pinion Rod Retaining Bolt, reinstall in the carrier and torque to specification (15-30 lbf.ft.). Clean the differential housing cover and remove any silicone sealer residue from both the cover and the housing itself. Apply a �" bead of RTV to the cover and reinstall the cover on the housing. Replace all bolts and torque in sequence to specification (25-35 lbf.ft).
At this time the rear brake shoes can be replaced to allow time for the silicone to set up before adding new gear oil. Once complete, replace the brake drums and add the required amount of the specified gear oil.

Front

Begin the installation of the SN95 spindles by placing the spindle/hub assembly on the ball joint on the lower control arm. Before screwing on the crown nut to secure the spindle you will need a spacer on the ball joint between the spindle and crown nut.
The reason for this is that the stud on the ball joint of the Fox cars is longer than the stud on the SN95 cars. So, when you go to tighten the crown nut to specification you will have gone past the cotter hole and the crowns on the crown nut will not line up with the cotter hole for the cotter pin. FRPP addresses this problem in their M2300-K Cobra Brake Kit with a spacer that they provide to keep the crown nut in line with the cotter hole.
Unfortunately FRPP does not sell this spacer separately (it is only available in the kit) and nobody else to my knowledge sells it either. But, I was able to obtain the height of this spacer from FRPP whom suggested I have my own manufactured. The height needed from the spacer is 0.330" and the center hole diameter should be 5/8" to fit on the stud. The thickness of the spacer should simply be sufficient to sustain the rigors of the suspension.
Another solution (the route I chose) is to simply obtain some 5/8" hardened washers and stack them up to achieve the necessary height. I ended up needing 3 fairly thick washers per side.
Once you have your spacer (or washers) in place you can screw on the crown nut but do not tighten just yet.
Now fit the tie rod end onto the spindle and screw on the crown nut but do not tighten just yet.
At this point the strut can be attached to the spindle with the two mounting bolts and nuts. Torque the nuts to specification (140-200 lbf.ft.). Some manipulation will most likely be necessary with the floor jack at this point to attach the strut mounting bolts.
Now you can torque down the tie rod end crown nut to specification (35-47 lbf.ft.) and install a new cotter pin.
Finally torque down the lower ball joint crown nut to specification (110-150 lbf.ft.) and install a new cotter pin.
With the spindle now installed, place the rotor on the hub and mount the loaded caliper on the spindle. Attach the caliper with the two mounting bolts and torque to specification (70-95 lbf.ft.).
Place a new copper washer on the SN95 Banjo Bolt and insert the Banjo Bolt into the flexible brake line. Place another new copper washer on the other end of the bolt (so there is now a new washer on either side of the brake line) and screw the Banjo Bolt into the caliper. Be sure to route the flexible line so that it will not make contact with the front tire or wheel while driving and turning and then torque the Banjo Bolt to specification (30-40 lbf.ft.).
Repeat procedure for opposite side.
Once both sides are complete bleed the brake system (consult your repair manual for proper bleeding procedure).
Once the brakes have been bled the new wheels can be mounted and the lug nuts snugged up. The car can then be safely lowered from the jack stands and, with the car on the ground, the lug nuts can be torqued to specification (85-105 lbf.ft.).

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