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| FOX BODY MUSTANG 5-LUG CONVERSION
(cont.) THROUGH THE INSTALLATION OF SN95 FRONT SPINDLES By: Sean FitzPatrick May 17, 2000 Finishing Up Alignment With the car on the ground and the steering wheel centered you will notice that both of the front wheels are pointing inward (toe-in). This is due to the different mounting points of the SN95 spindles. The car cannot be driven like this safely and will surely destroy your tires. The toe needs to be adjusted out so the car can at least be driven to have the front end re-aligned (or have the car towed). Consult your repair manual for the proper procedure for adjusting the toe (basically loosen the tie rod end lock nut and rotate the adjustment until the wheel(s) point straight forward and then tighten the lock nut). Clearance With the toe adjusted check clearances before driving the car. Check the clearance of the tires to the fenders. If they are going to rub then the fenders will have to be rolled to allow the proper clearance. Check the clearance of the wheel to the lower control arm at full lock of the steering wheel. Larger wheels on an '87 to '90 Mustang will most likely rub at this point. This can be solved by installing steering rack limiters to decrease the turning radius of the vehicle (Ford part number N804842-S). '91 to '93 Mustangs have a decreased turn radius from the factory so this may not be a problem. Finally check the clearance of the brake lines to ensure that they will not rub the tires or wheels under any condition. Impressions With the installation of the SN95 spindles and brakes on the front of the car I have noticed improved handling and braking. The steering feels more precise and responsive especially on turn-in. One huge bonus is that the SN95 spindles seem to have completely cured the excessive bump-steer that I was experiencing. The car no longer wanders around the road following grooves or bumps. It just feels solid. This may not be the cure for everyone's bump-steer but it helped in my case. The improved design of the SN95 calipers provide more clamping force and less brake fade. A huge improvement over the stock Fox brakes. Another positive aside from this conversion is that you now have the basis for the addition of larger Cobra brakes or an aftermarket big brake kit such as Baer later on down the road. These kits require SN95 style spindle and hub assemblies to work on Fox body cars. Total outlay for parts (including brake pads and miscellaneous parts) and labor (for turning the rotors/drums and alignment) was just about $475 (not including new wheels). All in all it was a worthwhile conversion that I would certainly recommend to anyone considering converting to 5-lug on a budget. It will be more costly than simply using Mark VII rotors but not near as much as the FRPP M2300-K kit and will still give you improved braking and handling. * Disclaimer: I am not a certified mechanic and in no way imply that I am. This article is only published to give the reader an idea of the scope of the task listed therein and should in no way be construed as instructions for completing this task. Consult a qualified mechanic before attempting this task. Torque values and technical references listed in this article are for reference only and are believed to be correct at the time of this writing. Always verify current torque specifications prior to final tightening. Use this article and the information contained herein at your own risk. This article may be published and distributed only in its entirety with credit given to the author and the disclaimer attached. The author may be contacted at: [email protected]
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