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Aftermarket springs will dramatically
improve the look of your Stang, while giving it better road handling
ability. For Project Sundance, we chose the Steeda Sport Springs. The
springs drop the car 1.75" in the front, and 1" in the rear.
By doing so, it gives the Stang a slightly angled look reminiscent of
the muscle cars from long ago. This install is pretty straight
forward, anyone with basic knowledge of cars and tools should be able
to complete it in 4-5 hours. In short, if Spreadman can do it, so can
you.
Note, torque figures given are from the official
1999 Ford Mustang Shop Manual (Mustang GT) published by Helm.
Tools
required:
Another warm body
Haynes manual ($11 at AutoZone)(for pictures)
10mm socket
15mm socket (deep well)
19mm socket (deep well)
1/2" socket
13/16" socket
ratchet extensions
ratchet
breaker bar
2 jack stands (although 4 are recommended)
1 hydraulic floor jack (if using 2 jack stands, get another jack, or
use the one that came with the spare)
prybar (or REALLY big screwdriver)
small pliers
utility knife
small flathead screwdriver
rubber mallet
hammer
one wire coathanger
zip-ties
Red Loc-tite
PB Blaster (not really needed, but helps)
torque wrench (if you got one)
Preface:
It helps to have another person help. If using 2 jacks, it will come
in handy. Also, grab a bucket or crate to sit on while working on the
fronts. You’ll thank me for it. And TAKE YOUR TIME and do it right
the first time. ;-)
OK, let’s get started.
REARS
1. Jack up the rear of the
car, and place 2 jacks stands on the frame in front of the control arms.
(see picture). Jack it up as high as it can go….again, you will thank
yourself for doing it.
2. If you have 4 jack stands, jack up the differential about 5 inches
and place the other jack stands under the axle housings. This will keep
the differential from rotating up and down. If not, jack up the
differential under the solid metal plate just in front of the
pumpkin….and jack it up about 5 inches.
3. Remove the 4 bolts (1/2") that support the rear sway bar, and set it aside.
There are 4 speed clips that the bolts anchor to on the bar, try not to
lose them. You won’t, but I’m just warning you.
4. Now that you have the differential supported. Take the remaining jack
and pre-load the right side, under the A-arm, jacking it up about 4-5
inches.
5. Remove the bolt supporting the A-arm to the axle housing (13/16").
It will help if you have a breaker bar for this….these were a little
tough to get undone, but you can do
it.
6. VERY SLOWLY, lower the A-arm until the spring falls out.
7. Transfer any rubber isolators to the new spring, and place the new
spring in the A-arm (remembering which direction the pigtails were
facing), jack up the A-arm and bolt back into place
(13/16" : 111 ft-lbs). I recommend using
red Loc-Tite on these bolts…just as a precaution. (NOTE) If you do not
put jack stands under the axle housings, or use a jack in front of the
pumpkin, the holes will not line up, the diff. Rotates from top to
bottom…BE WARNED! As you try to line up the holes...you may have to
jockey around the jacks to get it right.
8. Do the same thing to the left side…and re-install the rear sway
bar (1/2" : 41 ft-lbs).
(NOTE: if you have a torque wrench, use the specs found in the
Haynes manual….if not, get them as tight as you can without stripping
the bolts).
DONE WITH THE REARS!
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