Progress Thread Pearl To White - Paint Time

[85GTStangGuy]

Scrape off what you can.... with your fingernail, or a plastic razor blade like BlakeusMaximus suggested, or even a paint stirring stick.... and soak the remnants with Goo Gone (which is safe to use on automotive paint). That should loosen it up enough to scrape the remainder off.

 

[BlakeusMaximus]

That 3M adhesive remover is safe for auto finishes. We use it all the time here at the Bodyshop. Just don’t use too much and put a coat of wax on the area afterward.

 

[Fri Guy]

Thanks fellas. The JB Weld seem to work, I had no issues with it.

 

[Fri Guy]

Not a pic of my hatch. Is there supposed to be some sort of insualtion under this trim panel? And do you guys know what size screws are used to secure it onto the hatch? I need a little larger than stock due to one of the holes is stripped so stock size won't grab.

 

[91AOD5.0LX]

Mine does not have insulation underneath.

 

[85GTStangGuy]

Not a pic of my hatch. Is there supposed to be some sort of insualtion under this trim panel? And do you guys know what size screws are used to secure it onto the hatch? I need a little larger than stock due to one of the holes is stripped so stock size won't grab.

I've only seen under a couple of them, but neither one had any insulation under them. I always thought that trim panel was strictly for appearance.... not really a sound or temperature insulating thing. That being said, I did buy the following kit to install underneath that panel (which my car did not come with, but which I acquired from a friend).

https://www.cjponyparts.com/dynamat-trunk-lid-kit-xtreme-custom-cut-mustang-hatchback-1979-1993/p/UL76/

Regarding the screw size, I can measure one tonight.... but my guess would be that they are #8 screws.

 

[AeroCoupe]

If you have access to the back side of the stripped hole then you may be able to close the hole up. To do this you will need to put something back there such that you can use a ball peen side of a hammer on the outer side of the screw hole and work the metal back to the original opening size. Hope that makes sense. I have done this on several cars in the past with good success. Other option is to use rivet nuts and machine screws which will fix it permanently.

 

[Fri Guy]

I've only seen under a couple of them, but neither one had any insulation under them. I always thought that trim panel was strictly for appearance.... not really a sound or temperature insulating thing. That being said, I did buy the following kit to install underneath that panel (which my car did not come with, but which I acquired from a friend).

https://www.cjponyparts.com/dynamat-trunk-lid-kit-xtreme-custom-cut-mustang-hatchback-1979-1993/p/UL76/

Regarding the screw size, I can measure one tonight.... but my guess would be that they are #8 screws.

I think #8 is correct for stock size. I wonder if I can use a #10 in it's place.

 

[85GTStangGuy]

It's worth a try. A #10 screw is only 24 thousandths of an inch larger than a #8, so it really depends on just how badly that hole is stripped out. Be careful when you're tightening it.... stay on the "less-torquey" side of tightening.

A couple of other ideas...
- Maybe a little threadlocker on the original screw might work. Lightly screw it in and let it dry. Again, depends on how wallowed out the hole is.
- Somehow get a couple of strands of copper wire in the hole.... they'll act as a "filler" of sorts. See the video below, starting at the 3:08 mark.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=soOvDuwfnQA

 

[Fri Guy]

Thanks for those ideas. Might give them a try first. The hole is just a hair bit larger than the size of screw. It catches enough to keep it from falling out on its own but not enough to torque down.

 

[Fri Guy]

On stock LX Tail Lights, am I correct that they require a total of six bulbs for both sides? Four 3157 amber bulbs and two 3156 white bulbs?

 

[Fri Guy]

I got the bulbs all situated. Now I'm trying to figure out how to get the computer and wires back behind the kick panel. I do not think the computer had the original bracket installed since the computer has been out of the car before while getting the car tuned. Do I have to remove the blower motor assembly to get everything back behind the kick panel and if those relays are stock? Not sure why there is duct tape on the computer either. Any advice would be much appreciated.

 

[bird_dog0347]

There should not be duct tape on there, and you should be able to buy the bracket at least on ebay I think to install it how it should be. You should be able to get the computer in/out of the bracket without removing the dash or blower motor, but I can't say on those relays.

 

[General karthief]

I would say those relays with the sketchy wiring is not stock.
I'd be suspicious of that computer with the duct tape, take the opportunity to send the computer out to the ECUExchange and get it checked out, not much money and they are pretty quick turnaround too.
I have seen the same computer mounting bracket on a 5.0 equipped F150 I worked on, I may even have one lay'n around on a shelf,
Maybe
If I spend a couple hours looking, I'm not very well organized.
I am very well disorganized.

 

[AeroCoupe]

Relays are most likely from an aftermarket keyless entry or alarm. If you do not have the key fob then just unplug the relays and see if the locks quit working.

The duct tape is common when there is a chip on the ECU so that is does not come loose. Hell, I still use that trick with my SCT chip on mine. If you pull codes and get a 15 then money there is a chip but you can just remove the tape and see for yourself.

 

[Fri Guy]

Relays are most likely from an aftermarket keyless entry or alarm. If you do not have the key fob then just unplug the relays and see if the locks quit working.

The duct tape is common when there is a chip on the ECU so that is does not come loose. Hell, I still use that trick with my SCT chip on mine. If you pull codes and get a 15 then money there is a chip but you can just remove the tape and see for yourself.

Thanks. The car does have an old keyless entry alarm. Would love to remove it all but don’t want to risk causing an electrical issue.

Car does have a SCT as well. Had it dyno tuned years ago.

Now I just need to get all that back in behind the kick panel and I’ll be good.