85 rebuild

I can really only do one or the other upper or lower. How do I get a 306 dumb question. I can have my block sent of to be cleaned gone through and surfaced. Heads as well and the crank rebalanced. If I just go with a cam headers intake. Can I upgrade factory heads or could I get more replacing them. I already have 3.55 gears. Really just wanna give it a little more pep. The only thing I know for sure is I want the Holley sniper

Bad ECT sensor causing this problem or what???

Not there so hard to know. Get a DVM and see if any of the pins in the connector are shorted to each other.
how do I test that, ohm it out? On what setting? I'm not that familiar with a lot of the settings and such other than following a chart and such lol......

I do have actually a used pigtail that I splice in on the other car the one that got hit years ago and the harness is still good. I can definitely remove that and splice that in ( temp) to see if that solves the issue as well....

Bad ECT sensor causing this problem or what???

564- fan control circuit failure
998 - operating in failure mode

You know you have some kind of fan issue so that explains that code. The 998 is most likely set due to 117 code. I have seen several threads where bare wires at or close to the ECT.
what did they do to fix the bare wire issue? I know when I did the engine a few years ago I found the wires to the Ect plug one I believe just one was frayed so I taped it up good so it wouldn't touch the other eventually. I believe just some sheathing was broken but the wire was still intact. I played around with it today with the car running to see if there was a change in anythign or the fan turning off, ect but nothing. I really don't think that wire is an issue but still a little concerned.

Ect Sensor Grounding

On a side note your computer relies on the readings this sensor gives. I have heard of it screwing the computers calculations up by even changing its location on the intake. Ideally you would want this to be as close to the thermostat as possible. But before the thermostat. There is a reason the stock location is where it is. I have used a laser thermometer and you would be surprised at the temp difference between the location its supposed to be and anywhere else. around the intake.

I'm just trying to help you avoid and computer issues when everything is together. It would suck to have your car in closed loop because the sensor never reaches the correct temp.

BTW Closed Loop = Running rich.
what's up man I know this is an old post but my issues brought me to this thread. Btw I talked to you on the groups years ago when I was inquiring about doing a 351. Well here's my issue now with my 94 Cobra; ( from another thread)

My issue is my fan is turning on when I start the car and I've tried a few different used Ect sensors, a few used Ccrm's, and another used Pcm ( all of my parts actually). I did a koeo and got code 511 EEC processor Rom test failed, 117 Ect sensor circuit grounded, and 564 which google seems to say something about fuses or something from what I've read others asking questions about that code which isn't in my chilton's manual.

With the koer test i got a code 998 hard fault present and also the 117 again. There was another code started but didn't get to get the numbers cause the CEL stayed on and the car almost cut off. I switched it off after about a minute or so and waiting 30 seconds to do the test again. I got the same codes and upon the 3rd code starting the car cut off. I repeated that process one more time and the same outcome.

I ohmed the Ect sensor unplugged and got 27.6, 29.8, and 31.6 ( new one from autozone). I didn't buy the one from autozone but wanted to ohm it out to see if the numbers from my old ones compared to it.

85 rebuild

If you are going to stroke it then get a kit that has the crank, rods, and pistons. Rings seem to be a builder / combination preference so let your engine builder recommend those based on the common I.e. naturally aspirated, nitrous, or boosted.

If you add displacement then the induction will need to be addressed. You have it covered with the Holley Terminator setup but the intake, cam, and heads will need to be spec’d. this could be porting the intake you have vs buying a new one and porting the heads you have (if they are worth porting) vs buying new ones.

With all that said a well sorted or 306 can make 300+ rwhp and be an absolute blast to drive.

Regardless I would suggest some 3.55 rear gears regardless the engine combo you choose. I have 3.73’s and a WC T5 and wish I had 3.55’s. A couple hundred less rpm’s at cruise would be nice and the 1-2 shift is really quick.

Car looks great and welcome!

Electrical Ecc overiding base timing?

Ok so when I got this car it had a high idle and stumbled really bad. I found several vaccuum leaks and things started to smooth out a bit, but still high idle. I checked the timing and it was way advanced at base. I pulled the spout and the IAC, backed the throttle screw all the way out and set timing to 10. I tightened the hold down bolt, double checked the timing, shut off the engine and reinstalled the spout. I then unplugged the battery for 15 min.

I came back and plugged the battery back in, IAC is still unplugged. Started the car and yet again the idle was up to 1000 and timing nearly 29 at "idle". So I figured the distrubutor had slipped. I pulled the spout while out and it instantly settled back down, 10 degrees and 800 rpm.

I thought that was weird, so then I changed nothing and plugged the spout back in and it reved up again, timing went up to 29 and rpm at 1100.

With spout out, IAC unplugged, TB screw backed all the way out and timing set manually at 10deg, she purrs, smooth no surge. Its almost like the ECC is giving advance commands at base idle. The IAC is new BTW

What's going on here?
Am I not following the post timing procedure correctly to get it to"take"?
Something funky with the ECC?
Do I need to have the IAC plugged in when setting base timing?

If I understand the spout correctly, when inserted, it allows the ECC to control advance as you increase throttle. Why would it advance timing at idle when I reconnect it?
What an awesome community!

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