Installing an edlebrock intake....what do I need?

[mustangfb66]

I got my performer intake in the mail today. I also bought an ARP bolt kit, and a set of Fel-Pro gaskets for the intake.

I've never pulled the intake on my mustang before. What do I need for the install. Any tips? Do I have to remove the valve covers? Should I get new carb and valve cover gaskets?

Thanks,
Efren

 

[JT$$$]

wrenchs and a camera and tape make shure that you know where all the hoses and wires go when you get the new one on and you can leave your valves and covers on

 

[Mach-One-Man]

Most important, you will need a Torque wrench, pry bar & a timing light. Someone who has done this before would be nice also. When you pull the distributor you will need to mark the position of the rotor & try to get it as close as possible before tring to start the engine. Pay close attention to how it "drops in" & the oil pump driveshaft. I would also recommend a new thermostat, gasket & upper rad hose. Good luck!

 

[jesserose17]

Yes, you'll need new carb gasket... Even though you can do it with valve cover on, it will be easier with them off - if you do, then you will need the valve cover gaskets.

 

[SuperDave]

clean everything throughly with solvent. Additionally, use a QUALITY intake gasket set (I like FelPro) and sealant (I use Permatex #2). Do NOT apply the gaskets dry!

 

[mustangfb66]

"Pay close attention to how it "drops in" & the oil pump driveshaft. "

How do I know if it drops in correctly. Is there any way to check? This seems a little scary with the oil pump drive shaft and all.


Which one is permatex #2, is it the black RTV? Also, do I need to put sealant on all the gaskets or just the two end gaskets (like on the lifter valley going from left to right).

Thanks,
Efren

 

[Fostang]

Efren where are you located in central cali???

I can come by and give you some pointers if your not too far.

 

[GaPonyFarm]

Be sure to throw the front and rear seals, from the intake manifold gasket kit, into the trash. Use RTV (I prefer black) to seal the front and rear of the manifold. The RTV does a much better job than the rubber seals at sealing in the corners.

When pulling the distributor, just pay attention to the way its oriented and try to reinstall in the same place...its best to get the engine to TDC before starting, just because it gives you more reference.

Just about everything else you need is already in the above...

Oh yea... After you get it all back together and run the engine for awhile, be sure to come back and retorque all the manifold bolts, as the gasket will have compressed a bit.

 

[gp001]

Edlebrock Instructions

http://edelbrock.r-catalog.com/ImgVD/EDE/2121_Inst.pdf

 

[mustangfb66]

Efren where are you located in central cali???

I can come by and give you some pointers if your not too far.

Thanks for the offer but I live near the coast about 20 minutes south of Gilroy. It would be quite a drive.

 

[D.Hearne]

Y'all have forgotten to tell him one other thing, Change the oil and filter after swapping the intake, before you run it. In removing the intake you will get some coolant into the lifter valley and this will run down into the crankcase. Be gentle when removing the distributor, the oil drive has a nasty habit of coming up with the dist, when you least expect it. This will complicate things and ruin your day when it falls back into the oil pan. I try to pull it up partway, shaking the dist as I go, to dislodge the oil drive from the dist shaft. The oil on and in the shafts sometimes causes a suction and prevents the two from separating when you remove the dist. The shaking will dislodge the drive from the shaft.

 

[Fostang]

Thanks for the offer but I live near the coast about 20 minutes south of Gilroy. It would be quite a drive.

Road trip

 

[SuperDave]

"Pay close attention to how it "drops in" & the oil pump driveshaft. "

How do I know if it drops in correctly. Is there any way to check? This seems a little scary with the oil pump drive shaft and all.


Which one is permatex #2, is it the black RTV? Also, do I need to put sealant on all the gaskets or just the two end gaskets (like on the lifter valley going from left to right).

Thanks,
Efren

Permatex #2 is sold as it named, Permatex #2. It seals the manifold to block water passages better than RTV, which creates "worms" that plug the cooling system. Whatever you use, do so SPARINGLY as most people figure that, if a little is good, a WHOLE LOT is better. No so.

 

[mustangfb66]

Ok, one last question. I have a straite Monte Carlo bar on my stang. Do I need to take it off? Or can I get away with just leaving it on there and tilting the distributor at an angle when I pull it up so that it clears?

Thanks,
Efren

 

[Swede958]

Seeing as this is your first attempt, I would pull the bar just to get everything out of the way as possible. Everything has pretty much been said.
RECAP
Take pictures of how everything looks beforehand. (JT$$$)

Mark the distributer and then engine. I.e. pull the cap and mark where the rotor is (rotor and dist edge), then mark a line on the dist shaft and the block. Remember to shake the distributer a little to loosen the driveshaft (as per D. Hearne)

Take everything off and loosen all of the bolts, use a pry bar to gently break the seal, then lift off.

Clean all of the mounting surfaces, you can use shop towels to plug up water passages and cylinder bores so crap doesn't get into them. After they are clean, wipe them down with a solvent to make sure there is no grease or anything. (SD)

Use Permatex #2 (I beleive that's the non-hardening one right SD?) around the water passages. Just use a smear around them. Lay them on the heads and then use Black RTV on the endrails, make sure to go up onto the gasket surfaces about 1/4". Let get tacky then drop the manifold gently into place.

Once it's seated, I like to tighten all of the bolts about hand tight, then start torquing them into place. I believe you start from the corners and work inward, criscrossing while you go.

Next reinstall the distributer, remember that with the helical gears you'll have to start off slightly askew from the mark you made. When it slides in it will line back up.

Put everything on, change the oil. (Preferably Motorcraft FL-1A or better ) And you should be good to go.

Does that about sum it up guys?

THe Swede

 

[D.Hearne]

You got the torque sequence backwards, it's work from the middle outward, criss crossing. Torque them to no more than 20 ft/lbs. and repeat the sequence 4-5 times till it settles. Also recommend removing the M/C bar. And use 4-- 2in long carb studs in the 4 equally spaced bolt holes to align the intake when you set it into place. Then remove the studs and use the bolts.

 

[D.Hearne]

OH, and good instructions, Swede

 

[GaPonyFarm]

Lastly... check your vacuum level before you start the swap... and again afterward. Both measurements should be pretty close, if not the same. A significant drop means a leak.

 

[Swede958]

Thanks for the fix D.Hearne, I knew it was either outside in or inside out... and also for the stud thing, I forgot that as well. That is a very good idea and well worth the couple of cents for some studs to guide the intake on.

The Swede

 

[mustangfb66]

New problem....

Ok, I'm having a problem with it starting now.

Before I took it apart, I set it to top dead center, then I marked the distributor with the block, and the rotor with the distributor. When I put it back together every thing lined up just like it was.

So, now it doesn't stay running. It will start right up and run for a couple of seconds, then die. If I keep a foot on the gas I can keep it going for a little while. It seems like it is idleing higher than it did in the past.

Is this a timming problem or a carb problem? The only thing that I changed was the intake. It has a 1 inch carb spacer (which it had before) that goes to the pcv valve on the pass. side valve cover.

Any Ideas? Need more info?
Thanks,
Efren